I know that the furling control line is supposed to enter the drum at a 90 degree angle to the jibstay, but what I never see discussed is where is the best place on the drum, i.e. top, middle or bottom, to have the line aligned with when the jib is furled. I don't like how my current setup has the line loading at the top of the drum, but to change the lead block location (which is currently shackled to the toe rail) I am going to have to drill a new mounting hole, and I only want to do that once. So what works best for you folks? Thanks, Kevin
Jib furling control line
- Thread starter Kevin B
- Start date
- Status
Fair
The control line should exit the drum fairly - so it doesn't chaffe on either top or bottom lip of exit apeture.
The control line should exit the drum fairly - so it doesn't chaffe on either top or bottom lip of exit apeture.
Swiveling Fairead
I use a stantion mount swiveling fairlead near where the line enters the spool. This allows the line to move up or down as it rolls up and keeps it lined up very nicely.
I use a stantion mount swiveling fairlead near where the line enters the spool. This allows the line to move up or down as it rolls up and keeps it lined up very nicely.
Mine was binding with line coming off spool on new to me boat so I moved block furthur to stern on toe rail and so far no problems.
A little help.
FWIW, when I replaced my Hood DL with a SL, the rigger (and manual) suggested that the inner portion of the braided line be stripped for the first 15' as it rolls onto the drum (leave just the braided outer weave). This will allow a fair amount of line to remain on the drum at all times and reduce the thickness of the accumulated line on the drum when the sail is deployed. By being flat, it also tends to keep the line centered on the drum. This has worked for me for 8 years.
FWIW, when I replaced my Hood DL with a SL, the rigger (and manual) suggested that the inner portion of the braided line be stripped for the first 15' as it rolls onto the drum (leave just the braided outer weave). This will allow a fair amount of line to remain on the drum at all times and reduce the thickness of the accumulated line on the drum when the sail is deployed. By being flat, it also tends to keep the line centered on the drum. This has worked for me for 8 years.
Why drill holes? Can't you just use a stanchion
mounting bracket or something like this? See link...
mounting bracket or something like this? See link...
Because a stanchion is too far aft
I can't use a stanchion or bow pulpit rail because they are too far aft of the furling drum to give me the 90 degree angle. My furling drum is mounted very close to the deck which means the first control block or fairlead has to be within about 18 inches aft. Currently I am using the forward most perforation on my toe rail to shacle a block but that has the control line enetring the drum at the top of the spool (Gord, its fair, i.e. not chafing on the top of the drum, but just barely). So, since I am going to move the block (or install a fairlead) forward a couple of inches, and since I'll have to drill mounting holes I posed my original question. I think that Gord and Stu have pointed me to lining the control line to the middle of the drum. Kevin
I can't use a stanchion or bow pulpit rail because they are too far aft of the furling drum to give me the 90 degree angle. My furling drum is mounted very close to the deck which means the first control block or fairlead has to be within about 18 inches aft. Currently I am using the forward most perforation on my toe rail to shacle a block but that has the control line enetring the drum at the top of the spool (Gord, its fair, i.e. not chafing on the top of the drum, but just barely). So, since I am going to move the block (or install a fairlead) forward a couple of inches, and since I'll have to drill mounting holes I posed my original question. I think that Gord and Stu have pointed me to lining the control line to the middle of the drum. Kevin
- Status