Our Vision 32 has a continuous line furler for it's jib manufactured by Hood (also known as the LD, or Line Drive system). Recently, the drum of the furler has started to stiffen up, unfurling the jib has become quite an undertaking... I took apart the drum and suspect the bearings need to be replaced. I popped onto Hood Yacht Systems web site (http://www.pompanette.com) to see if I can locate more information on this particular model of ours (I cannot seem to locate the original manual). Instead, I found out that they sell an "upgrade" for the model to a Single Line system. I can see how this might be an advantage if you were to reef your jib. But for the Hunter Vision 32, since the jib is so small and used primarily for pointing, that advantage is moot in my opinion (am I wrong?). My question is, what are some benefits from moving from a continuous line to a single line system? Will the cost justify the means? Tina & James Marohn Perelandra
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Don't spend the $$$
Have them replace the bearing. I agree with you, with a V32, not worth it. I hace sailed mine for 10 years with perfectly saisfactory performance. Let me know what you ultimately do in case I have to do the same thing. RD
Have them replace the bearing. I agree with you, with a V32, not worth it. I hace sailed mine for 10 years with perfectly saisfactory performance. Let me know what you ultimately do in case I have to do the same thing. RD
Advantage
The major advantage of moving from a continuous to single line system is that you can put the single line on a winch if you have to, and one day you WILL have to. MC
The major advantage of moving from a continuous to single line system is that you can put the single line on a winch if you have to, and one day you WILL have to. MC
No slippage
I upgraded to the single line on my L37 because the LD kept slipping. I couldn't reef the genny any more. I spoke with Pompanette at the Newport show 2 yrs ago and they gave me a deal on the single line. The roller head fit the existing extrusion, so I only bought the head. I'm glad I did. And yes, I DO have to wrap the line on the winch ocassionally when the wind pipes up.
I upgraded to the single line on my L37 because the LD kept slipping. I couldn't reef the genny any more. I spoke with Pompanette at the Newport show 2 yrs ago and they gave me a deal on the single line. The roller head fit the existing extrusion, so I only bought the head. I'm glad I did. And yes, I DO have to wrap the line on the winch ocassionally when the wind pipes up.
Furlers get new life with bearings
Hello Call Hood.. they can replace the bearings withing 24 hours of receipt.. sure beats all the heck out of installing a new system.. and olnly costs about $200 versus new at $$K.. They did mine.. great service. Jim Oursler Hunter 34
Hello Call Hood.. they can replace the bearings withing 24 hours of receipt.. sure beats all the heck out of installing a new system.. and olnly costs about $200 versus new at $$K.. They did mine.. great service. Jim Oursler Hunter 34
If you need to winch your furler
If that day comes.. typically the line extends is longer than the cockpit winch.. so wrap it on the winch.. and winch.. else cut and winch.. either way.. cheaper than a full replacement.
If that day comes.. typically the line extends is longer than the cockpit winch.. so wrap it on the winch.. and winch.. else cut and winch.. either way.. cheaper than a full replacement.
I replaced mine...
I replaced the Hood continous line furler drum with a single line drum when I purchased the boat. I've seen them slip on other boats (maybe not the best maintained boats). I later added a larger headsail. You may not have that option without upgrading your furler. And if you ever sell your boat you wont have to deal with questions about the furler.
I replaced the Hood continous line furler drum with a single line drum when I purchased the boat. I've seen them slip on other boats (maybe not the best maintained boats). I later added a larger headsail. You may not have that option without upgrading your furler. And if you ever sell your boat you wont have to deal with questions about the furler.
More info...
Turns out that the LD system comes with only two bearings made of composite material. The SL (Single Line system) has four stainless bearings which lasts quite a bit longer. The upgrade cost for my particular LD model (810) is $480. If you have a 705LD, the upgrade to a single line system is $350. As Paul mentioned, with the upgrade, you don't need to purchase the halyard swivel or the extrusions making the installation a snap. Seems to me I would be saving in the long run if the bearings on the SL system lasts longer. The added benefit of upgrading to a no slippage system makes upgrading the system make sense. Sounds like a Christmas wish list item to me!
Turns out that the LD system comes with only two bearings made of composite material. The SL (Single Line system) has four stainless bearings which lasts quite a bit longer. The upgrade cost for my particular LD model (810) is $480. If you have a 705LD, the upgrade to a single line system is $350. As Paul mentioned, with the upgrade, you don't need to purchase the halyard swivel or the extrusions making the installation a snap. Seems to me I would be saving in the long run if the bearings on the SL system lasts longer. The added benefit of upgrading to a no slippage system makes upgrading the system make sense. Sounds like a Christmas wish list item to me!
One more thing to consider
As I mentioned earlier, I switched because of slippage. It is also my understanding that an older line will tend to slip an it stretches and gets a smaller diameter. A occasional replacement may better suit your situation. Keep that in mind.
As I mentioned earlier, I switched because of slippage. It is also my understanding that an older line will tend to slip an it stretches and gets a smaller diameter. A occasional replacement may better suit your situation. Keep that in mind.
Centering Clamp?
Before you go spending big $$ on a replacement system, check the centering clamp that is located under the base of the furling gear. Mine was hard to unfurl/furl and I discovered my centering clamp had deteriorated over 8 years. For $20 plus S&H, it fixed the problem. Smooth sailing.
Before you go spending big $$ on a replacement system, check the centering clamp that is located under the base of the furling gear. Mine was hard to unfurl/furl and I discovered my centering clamp had deteriorated over 8 years. For $20 plus S&H, it fixed the problem. Smooth sailing.
Centering clamp -- more info please
My boat has a Hood 810 LD and is difficult to furl. Sometimes the lower "shell" part turns so far that the furling line becomes ineffective (jams). I remedy this by keeping a lot of tension on both parts of the line while furling/unfurling. The fitting that prevents the lower part from turning is a snap shackle through a hole in the lower part, that is in turn shackled to a SS bar that forms the lower attachment of the forestay. This allows much too much rotational play. I know this is an owner mod since the furling drum is now above deck instead of below the deck as installed by Hunter. I was told this mod was made because the drum sometimes jams completely in heavy weather and has to be disassembled underway! It also appears that the upper and lower aluminum "shell" pieces are rubbing together at the rim. I am hoping that there is an adjustment to correct this. I don't understand what you mean by the centering clamp. Could you please explain further? If you don't want to put this on the forum, my e-mail is rsengland@home.com Thanks.
My boat has a Hood 810 LD and is difficult to furl. Sometimes the lower "shell" part turns so far that the furling line becomes ineffective (jams). I remedy this by keeping a lot of tension on both parts of the line while furling/unfurling. The fitting that prevents the lower part from turning is a snap shackle through a hole in the lower part, that is in turn shackled to a SS bar that forms the lower attachment of the forestay. This allows much too much rotational play. I know this is an owner mod since the furling drum is now above deck instead of below the deck as installed by Hunter. I was told this mod was made because the drum sometimes jams completely in heavy weather and has to be disassembled underway! It also appears that the upper and lower aluminum "shell" pieces are rubbing together at the rim. I am hoping that there is an adjustment to correct this. I don't understand what you mean by the centering clamp. Could you please explain further? If you don't want to put this on the forum, my e-mail is rsengland@home.com Thanks.
Centering Clamp
I replaced the centering clamp on my 1988 H33.5 because the clamp had broken. The clamp is a hard rubber / plastic "doughnut" that is appx. 3" in diameter. The clamp is split(in half) with set screws that allow the unit to clamped onto the forestay threaded terminal end. The external diameter of the clamp assembly is slightly smaller that the internal diameter of the drum assembly. The purpose of the clamp is to simply center the drum assembly over the terminal end of the forestay. This part is easy to install and inexpensive. The only reason to replace it would be if the old centering clamp is broken or worn excessively.
I replaced the centering clamp on my 1988 H33.5 because the clamp had broken. The clamp is a hard rubber / plastic "doughnut" that is appx. 3" in diameter. The clamp is split(in half) with set screws that allow the unit to clamped onto the forestay threaded terminal end. The external diameter of the clamp assembly is slightly smaller that the internal diameter of the drum assembly. The purpose of the clamp is to simply center the drum assembly over the terminal end of the forestay. This part is easy to install and inexpensive. The only reason to replace it would be if the old centering clamp is broken or worn excessively.
Hood single line furler
I recently had problems with the Hood 810 furler (sinle line) on my 1988 H33.5 jamming in both directions. After reviewing the Hood owners manual, I discovered that hood recommends that the jib HALYARD be eased while furling and unfurling. This solution solved my problem and the furler works fine now. I simply have to retension the halyard after unfurling.
I recently had problems with the Hood 810 furler (sinle line) on my 1988 H33.5 jamming in both directions. After reviewing the Hood owners manual, I discovered that hood recommends that the jib HALYARD be eased while furling and unfurling. This solution solved my problem and the furler works fine now. I simply have to retension the halyard after unfurling.
Disassembly/maintenance instructions for Hood LD?
While my mast is off the boat for the winter, I would like to disassemble the Hood LD 810 jib furler. I would feel more comfortable with this gear on my boat if I understood its inner workings, and maybe I can improve its functioning by doing some minor maintenance. I don't have a manual, but I do have a cut-away drawing from the Hood Web site (was at www.paw.com/sail/hood but seems to have been removed). I don't see anything that looks like a plastic donut for a centering clamp, but I do see a lot of ball bearings that look eager to jump out and frolic all over the ground. Can anyone give me some disassembly (and importantly, reassembly!) instrutions? Thanks in advance.
While my mast is off the boat for the winter, I would like to disassemble the Hood LD 810 jib furler. I would feel more comfortable with this gear on my boat if I understood its inner workings, and maybe I can improve its functioning by doing some minor maintenance. I don't have a manual, but I do have a cut-away drawing from the Hood Web site (was at www.paw.com/sail/hood but seems to have been removed). I don't see anything that looks like a plastic donut for a centering clamp, but I do see a lot of ball bearings that look eager to jump out and frolic all over the ground. Can anyone give me some disassembly (and importantly, reassembly!) instrutions? Thanks in advance.
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