jib control on H23.5 and similar boats

[Nicky17000]

I was considering improving the jib control system on our H23.5
I know that this was discussed before but would like some tips and advice.
I had in mind to replace the jib turning blocks from fixed to tracks.
The main questions are; how long the tracks need to be?
How is the best way to fix them to the coachroof? Would a strip of hardwood such as teak or iroko bonded with epoxy be OK?
I was also considering replacing the horn cleats with clam-cleats or PXR-cleats. If I do replace them, should I place them instead of the horn cleats or there is a better position?

I want to simplify tacking since I do it mainly single handed.

Any advice welcome

Thanks

 

[Dennis Kitchen]

Nicky, the tracks would need to be bolted through the coach roof. You would then have hardware sticking through your ceiling. As for length and position you would need to base that on your particular headsail. Do you have roller reefing? The tracks would need to be set for range of positions you would reef to. When running or broad reaching with my 110 jib I tie light weight poly line to the clew and run out side the shrouds to the aft of the boat. This gives me a better sail shape. The factory block is positioned well for going windward with the 110 jib. Of course I don't roller reef and have to take the jib down when it gets too windy.

 

[Nicky17000]

Hi Dennis,
I have the original 110% jib and another 95%. No roller reefing.
The smaller jib has a trim-line strip that would meet the deck about a foot forward of the original blocks.
I also added a pair of blocks about 2 feet diagonally backwards from the other blocks, touching the toe rail.
Normally I use the small jib on the old ones and the other jib on the aft ones.
I found that set like that, it opens a bit the slot between it and the mail and reduced backwinding. It points a little less but I feel it more steady especially when bearing out to a beam reach.

 

[Dennis Kitchen]

Nicky, sounds like a pretty good set up.Does the 95 jib do well? I have thought about a smaller jib also. Often 20 kts plus when I sail and have to take the 110 down. Boat sails well with just the main up but would point better with a small jib up. I have read others here replace the horn cleats on the coachroof with the PXR's. Usually they raise them up with teak or plastic shim underneath to get good angle on the sheet. Someday I"ll add them as well but I"ll see if I can keep the horns also. Handy for mooring.

 

[Scott2]

Hi Nicky, do you have a picture? just curious.

Scott
H240

 

[Nicky17000]

I don't have suitable pictures.
The smaller jib is of heavier material and the clew is higher than that of the other one.
The blocks that I added, I put on a small piece of marine plywood set in epoxy.
When I use the original jib on them, the sheet passes almost touching the railing.

I don't like the prospect of completely penetrating the coachroof, so probably I stay without the tracks. However I'm still pondering about the cleats becouse the horn cleats are not the ideal especially when one needs to tack unaided.
Somwhere in this forum, once I saw a picture with clam cleats fixed on the facing of the cabin just below the edge of the coachroof. This looks like another good option.