I have the same problem others have experienced with the cleats for the jib sheets on my 270. I read the post on adding rope guides and fairleads to the cleats but when I removed the screws, I had a difficult time removing the cleats. Are they just stuck to the deck with caulk? Can I damage the deck by attempting to pry them up? I don't want to create a worse problem or leak which could damage the deck. How would you suggest getting the cleats off?
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Try this
Try leaving the screws in to use as levers. I use the Harken 1" riser (#295) for the #250 cleat and the Ronstan fast lead RF5015. The port riser needs the side next to the Powercrunch sanded square. The cleats are screwed into a plate molded in the deck. Use 3M 5200 sealant (same held it on) and 3" 10-24 ss screws to replace.
Try leaving the screws in to use as levers. I use the Harken 1" riser (#295) for the #250 cleat and the Ronstan fast lead RF5015. The port riser needs the side next to the Powercrunch sanded square. The cleats are screwed into a plate molded in the deck. Use 3M 5200 sealant (same held it on) and 3" 10-24 ss screws to replace.
Use A Putty Knife
I removed mine by working a putty knife under it to break the calk. The c-cleat is just stuck with calk. I was the one that posted the solution and picture, and passed it on to Hunter. Don't forget to try the loop endded sheet trick. Nils Anderson
I removed mine by working a putty knife under it to break the calk. The c-cleat is just stuck with calk. I was the one that posted the solution and picture, and passed it on to Hunter. Don't forget to try the loop endded sheet trick. Nils Anderson
5200
You are referring to 5200 amrine sealeant. Use a putty knife once the screws are removed. I suggest the Spinlock PX Power Cleats for the jib sheets. you can installl them in the same area as the cleats. Try to use one of the holes if possible. Otherwise caulk them. Under that flat portion is a thick aluminum plate that you can drill and tap for new bolts. I do suggest that you test drill with a small bit to make sure you are getting metal shavings to indicate that you are hitting the metal encapsulated in the fiberglass. One other thing, use the biggest one they offer and pleas get the additional riser plate or wedge so to angle the cleat up toward the cockpit. You will understand why I reccommend the riser. crazy dave condon
You are referring to 5200 amrine sealeant. Use a putty knife once the screws are removed. I suggest the Spinlock PX Power Cleats for the jib sheets. you can installl them in the same area as the cleats. Try to use one of the holes if possible. Otherwise caulk them. Under that flat portion is a thick aluminum plate that you can drill and tap for new bolts. I do suggest that you test drill with a small bit to make sure you are getting metal shavings to indicate that you are hitting the metal encapsulated in the fiberglass. One other thing, use the biggest one they offer and pleas get the additional riser plate or wedge so to angle the cleat up toward the cockpit. You will understand why I reccommend the riser. crazy dave condon
What does a spin lock do?
What does a spin lock do that a fairlead and rope guide don't? For only $16 and no drilling, what could be simpler? Can the spin lock be adjusted from anywhere in the cockpit? Do you have a picture?
What does a spin lock do that a fairlead and rope guide don't? For only $16 and no drilling, what could be simpler? Can the spin lock be adjusted from anywhere in the cockpit? Do you have a picture?
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