We often read about "the design flaw" with the jib cams and how when you use the winch to wind on the jib sheets it is almost impossible to get the sheet back down onto the cams again. Well why are we not just winding on with the winch and tying off on the cleat leaving the sheet around the winch?
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There is certainly nothing wrong with doing that. I also use the same winch from time to time for halyards and single line reefing. My wife sometimes uses the winch to raise the board part way if we get into shallower water. I removed my jam cleats and now have 4 clutches on the starboard for single line reefing, main halyard, solid vang, sheet and 3 on the port to add the spinaker halyard. Jeff Peltier
There is certainly nothing wrong with doing that. I also use the same winch from time to time for halyards and single line reefing. My wife sometimes uses the winch to raise the board part way if we get into shallower water. I removed my jam cleats and now have 4 clutches on the starboard for single line reefing, main halyard, solid vang, sheet and 3 on the port to add the spinaker halyard. Jeff Peltier
Add Fairlead and Guide
I don't use the winch. I keep the sheet from jumping out of the Ronstan C-Cleat by adding a RF5015 Rope guide in front and a RF5015 Fast Track Fairlead in the rear. Now I can adjust the sheet from any angle (even from the other side) without getting my fingers burned. If I need to pull in tighter, I turn into the wind and luff the jib slightly. Instead of a knot at the end of the sheet, I tie a loop. This way you can release the line on a tack, and use your index finger to grab the the other side from the fairlead and pull. The parts are avalable from West Marine for $9.50 per set. It only takes unscrewing the two screws to add these parts. Hunter should make these standard.
I don't use the winch. I keep the sheet from jumping out of the Ronstan C-Cleat by adding a RF5015 Rope guide in front and a RF5015 Fast Track Fairlead in the rear. Now I can adjust the sheet from any angle (even from the other side) without getting my fingers burned. If I need to pull in tighter, I turn into the wind and luff the jib slightly. Instead of a knot at the end of the sheet, I tie a loop. This way you can release the line on a tack, and use your index finger to grab the the other side from the fairlead and pull. The parts are avalable from West Marine for $9.50 per set. It only takes unscrewing the two screws to add these parts. Hunter should make these standard.
amen
That's exactly what I have done since early in the 1st season (98) that I had my 240. I have no problem with this technique and I spend most of my time single handed on Lake Michigan. (OK mostly fair weather only). Taching is no problem even solo. Just develope your own system and rythm and enjoy the ride. I can probably come about as fast as most crewed boats using this method. I got fed up with the jam cleat losing its grip under higher winds. Joe
That's exactly what I have done since early in the 1st season (98) that I had my 240. I have no problem with this technique and I spend most of my time single handed on Lake Michigan. (OK mostly fair weather only). Taching is no problem even solo. Just develope your own system and rythm and enjoy the ride. I can probably come about as fast as most crewed boats using this method. I got fed up with the jam cleat losing its grip under higher winds. Joe
Nils Anderson Question
Nils, Thanks for your recent photos and info on the Ronstan C-Cleats. Question - Where did you place these cleats, how were they attached, and was there any backing plate underneath? I have a H26. Thanks for your help - Ron
Nils, Thanks for your recent photos and info on the Ronstan C-Cleats. Question - Where did you place these cleats, how were they attached, and was there any backing plate underneath? I have a H26. Thanks for your help - Ron
C-Cleats Guides Easy to Install
Ron, these are real easy. First I got them at the local West Marine store. They were out of stock but they had them in the next week's warehouse order at no additional charge. (They are pictured in the catalog - the ones with the screws on 1-1/2" centers) They are positioned at the original location. My 260 came with has Ronstan cam-cleats. I don't know if the H26 has these or a different brand but the catalog showns the same kind for different ones. The backing plate (at least on the 260) is molded beneath the deck, so you just have to unscrew the long cam screws. Since they are placed with caulking, they may be a little tight to back out at first. Then lift the c-cleat and slip the front rope quide under (it is made to lock in), and place the rear fairlead on top and screw the assembly back down. The beauty of the fairlead is you can release the sheet from either side, and tighten from any side. The rope quide keeps the line from slipping out. Again, I use a single loop rather than an 8 knot on the end of the sheet, so when I completely let go, the loop is left on top of the c-cleat held by the quide and I can always grab it with my index finger. Both modifications took under 20 minutes for under 20 bucks!
Ron, these are real easy. First I got them at the local West Marine store. They were out of stock but they had them in the next week's warehouse order at no additional charge. (They are pictured in the catalog - the ones with the screws on 1-1/2" centers) They are positioned at the original location. My 260 came with has Ronstan cam-cleats. I don't know if the H26 has these or a different brand but the catalog showns the same kind for different ones. The backing plate (at least on the 260) is molded beneath the deck, so you just have to unscrew the long cam screws. Since they are placed with caulking, they may be a little tight to back out at first. Then lift the c-cleat and slip the front rope quide under (it is made to lock in), and place the rear fairlead on top and screw the assembly back down. The beauty of the fairlead is you can release the sheet from either side, and tighten from any side. The rope quide keeps the line from slipping out. Again, I use a single loop rather than an 8 knot on the end of the sheet, so when I completely let go, the loop is left on top of the c-cleat held by the quide and I can always grab it with my index finger. Both modifications took under 20 minutes for under 20 bucks!
loop?
Nils, do you mean that your jib sheet is one continuous loop?? Do you just tie the two ends of a long sheet at the clew after running it thru these cleats?? Do you have enough slack to get the jib out far enough when going wing2wing? Or enough slck to use the winches?? I'm confused....it's been too long a winter....
Nils, do you mean that your jib sheet is one continuous loop?? Do you just tie the two ends of a long sheet at the clew after running it thru these cleats?? Do you have enough slack to get the jib out far enough when going wing2wing? Or enough slck to use the winches?? I'm confused....it's been too long a winter....
Great idea Nils
Well done. Do the C-cleats you fitted go on where the standard ones were fitted? Regards By the way are we not just so lucky to have such a wonderfull forum?
Well done. Do the C-cleats you fitted go on where the standard ones were fitted? Regards By the way are we not just so lucky to have such a wonderfull forum?
C-Cleat Loop
The C-Cleat is the same one that comes with the 2002 260. All I did was add two accessories from Ronstan: a bottom plate with the rope guide, and a cap with a fairlead before re-scewing the original Rontan Cam Cleat with the same screws. These are pictured in the West Marine catalog and detailed in previous responses. You can now release the sheet by an upwards jerk, and let it go and forget it, from any position in the cockpit. It will stop at the fairlead. The loop (see picture) will make it easy to retrieve with your index finger for the next tack.
The C-Cleat is the same one that comes with the 2002 260. All I did was add two accessories from Ronstan: a bottom plate with the rope guide, and a cap with a fairlead before re-scewing the original Rontan Cam Cleat with the same screws. These are pictured in the West Marine catalog and detailed in previous responses. You can now release the sheet by an upwards jerk, and let it go and forget it, from any position in the cockpit. It will stop at the fairlead. The loop (see picture) will make it easy to retrieve with your index finger for the next tack.
still confused...
Nils, your picture doesn't show up (just a little red X where the picture is supposed to be)
Nils, your picture doesn't show up (just a little red X where the picture is supposed to be)
thanks
I'm still laughing at myself.... Nils, I thought you meant something completely different!!
I'm still laughing at myself.... Nils, I thought you meant something completely different!!
Jib Cleats Different on 26 vs 260
One reason some confusion exists on the suggestion that Nils has made - which is excellent - is that the H26 ( at least my "95) had no jam cleat for the jib sheet, but rather used a standard "open on two ends" cleat - like on the bow of boat. Jib sheet would usually go around the winch and then tie off on the cleat. This works OK, but there is no quick and easy way to release sheet. Nils A. combo cam cleat would work much better. Therefore, the H26 did not have a simple jam cleat to replace with the Ronstan C-cleat and fairlead. Hopefully the H26 jib cleat can be replaced with a Ronstan C-cleat using the same backet and redrilling the holes. Hope this hasn't confused the issue more, but the H26 is different.
One reason some confusion exists on the suggestion that Nils has made - which is excellent - is that the H26 ( at least my "95) had no jam cleat for the jib sheet, but rather used a standard "open on two ends" cleat - like on the bow of boat. Jib sheet would usually go around the winch and then tie off on the cleat. This works OK, but there is no quick and easy way to release sheet. Nils A. combo cam cleat would work much better. Therefore, the H26 did not have a simple jam cleat to replace with the Ronstan C-cleat and fairlead. Hopefully the H26 jib cleat can be replaced with a Ronstan C-cleat using the same backet and redrilling the holes. Hope this hasn't confused the issue more, but the H26 is different.
I've used all three and the easiest for me was...
was a rope clutch placed foward of the winches. No chance of rope burn, holds well, easy to adjust, and reduces the need for using the winch. alan
was a rope clutch placed foward of the winches. No chance of rope burn, holds well, easy to adjust, and reduces the need for using the winch. alan
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