Jib and main trim

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Alan

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Jun 2, 2004
4,174
Hunter 35.5 LI, NY
G. Bean

My take on your follow up pic while on a beat. My first thought was as Don suggests to try moving the car forward. It appears the foot of the genoa is much flatter than higher up. The effect of moving the car forward would be to make the shape of the genoa more uniform throughout its hoist. This necessitate an adjustment of the sheet. Small car adjustment make dramatic changes in sail shape so these adjustments need to be made in small increments. This would also serve to allow you to sail higher and re-trim the main for the new course. This is all part of the game of sail trim. Each adjustment in turn affects others. Add to this the constant change of wind speed and direction and you can easily understand why sail trim is an on going never ending game. To Don's comment about sheeting after a tack. The first 85% of sheet needs to be taken in as quickly as possible. After the helm completes his tack the boat is not sailing its highest and the sails need to be set in a slightly cracked off position. As the boat builds speed the helm will start to head up to the new course. As this happens the jib trimmer continues to bring the sheet in to accommodate the new course. The last 15% of adjustment may take up to 60 seconds as the boat settles into the new tack dependent on wind strength.
 
Jun 3, 2004
143
Hunter 33 Santa Barbara
Don, You indicated that you should set the driving sail first. In the case of the Catalinas, that would be the Jib as you indicated. So, I then would infer that since I have a Hunter (2004 33), which is Main driven, that I should set the Main first, then the Jib? Any other nuances (or differences) we hunter owners (in my case, former Catalina owner) should be aware of?? Thanks, Michael
 
P

Phil

Fairlead position and theory

Don Since you brought up the Garhauer adjustable system again, please indulge me one more time. It's clear that any adjustable fairlead gives you an infinite number of positions along the track, one of which is presumably optimal for that track and current conditions. It's not so clear how that 'just aft of neutral' optimal position is found (other than by looking at the sails). The control line pulls the car forward and sheet tension pulls the car aft. Could you explain what is meant by the neutral position, ie the position the car naturally assumes without adjustment? From the way it is normally described, it sounds like there is no tension on the car from the control line or from the sheet; but that makes no sense. Is the neutral car position found using optimal sheet tension but no forward tension? If so, then it would take more than optimal tension to move the car further aft of that position. If not optimal sheet tension then what, a vague 'some' tension? I guess the bottom line is to go by what the sails do, but I'd sure like to understand the statement that the optimal position is usually just aft of the position the car naturally finds itself following a tack.
 
May 17, 2004
2,110
Other Catalina 30 Tucson, AZ
Fractional Rig Trim

Michael S: Yes, you are correct that with a fractional rig you should set the main first and that is for the same reason you set the jib first on a masthead rig. It just makes sense to do it that way otherwise your chasing yourself. Generally, the jib on a fractional rig is smaller than a masthead rig jib and if you messed with it first it would never match the set of the main and you'd have to re adjust. On this subject you just have to trust me but as Pres Reagan said "trust but verify". Next time your out sailing try both ways and see if you notice any difference. Most masthead rig sailors spend a lot of time messing with the mainsail and give little attention to the jib. Many never even move their fairleads. They are backwards but probably happy in their work. Most would make good fractional rig sailors!! The major difference you Hunter owners must contend with is you have to pay close attention to your mainsail if you want to get 100% efficiency.
 
O

oldiesrocker

Thanks, Don

Thanks, Don. I thought I was 'doing it right' but was continually amazed watching other boats head into the dock on jib power alone(dead into the wind usually for my port) and always wondered why it didn't work that way for my boat..
 

Alan

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Jun 2, 2004
4,174
Hunter 35.5 LI, NY
G Bean

The main is a foil just as the keel and rudder. It should be used to help turn the boat. The more efficient your tack the less boat speed is lost through the tack. Our goal is always to minimize loss of boat speed during and after the tack. We shoot for a goal of no more than 1 knot loss. Moving the traveler to windward as the boat begins its tack will help the rudder turn the boat. Less rudder means less 'brake pedal'. Think of your rudder as the brake pedal. Any time the rudder is off center you are applying the brake. This is particularly true in light air. Also allowing the genoa to back-wind will help to draw the bow across the wind in lighter air. Delaying the genoa on a light air day is a very effective tool for tacking.
 
May 24, 2004
125
Ericson E-23 Smith Mt. Lake
A few weeks ago...

In early December several of us were sailing from Miami to Bimini and we saw a couple of high tech sleds tuning up a couple of miles offshore, beating "side by each" as they say around here. When they tacked I counted 4 seconds from sails full and drawing one way to full and drawing on the other tack. Yowch!
 
May 17, 2004
2,110
Other Catalina 30 Tucson, AZ
Tacking Goal

For cruisers and beer can racers, your goal should be to tack the boat in under 1 minute and to lose not more than 1 knot of speed. Some beginers to intermediates might be say yeah and that is easier said than done. Actually, it is pretty simple and shortly I'll give you a step step by proceedure that will make it like a piece of cake.
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,947
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Hi Don, at some risk of disclosing my errors...

here is what I do as a solo cruiser under close haul point of sail: 1. Ready my windward genoa winch with winch sheet wraps and handle. 2. Activate autopilot tack change, which brings boat around 100 degrees. 3. As boat comes around I take up about 90% of sheet slack as genoa comes across on new tack. 4. Adjust autopilot so that boat is pointing at about 32 degrees. 5. Adjust main sheet traveler car slightly to windward. 6. Trim genoa until all teltales are streaming aft. I've never timed it but it happens pretty fast. Once Belle-Vie settles onto her new course I tweak other adjustments; genoa sheet and car position, main sheet and traveler car position, etc. I'm open to any and all suggestions. Terry
 
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