Do you have jackstays all prepared to rig? Do you use line or web? How do you secure them so that they are taut? When do you know to get them out of the locker? Have you had to use them? On my H37C I assume there are not too many tie-down points that would be considered adequate. Aft there is a sheet winch and a large cleat on each side. Forward there is a sampson post. And this boat has a "real" toe-rail. I am considering web straps running from each aft cleat, inside the bimini frame but outside the dodger frame, past the mast and outside the dorade boxes to the sampson post. Appreciate any help on this issue. All I know for sure is to have a really good harness and clip on to the windward jackstay. Heck I sailed all of 2000 with no cartridge in my inflatable belt PFD!
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Jackstays
Jan. 22, 2001 Hi Ed, We formerly rigged jackstays from the rear cleats to the forward cleats. We had been using webbing, but it was obviously of inferior quality because it rotted in the sun, and then some bug ate holes in it. The aft eye opening was a tight to fit over the cleat and the fore part was snubbed with some small stuff to keep it in place. The result was just a bit loose. Now we have reverted to 1/2 inch line and I secure it to the anchor cleat instead of the dock cleats at the bow. We lead them inside the shrouds, and because they are quite taut we are not concerned with them interfering with sheets, rails, etc. I tie them with a bowline round the stern cleat and I use a round turn and two half hitches at the anchor cleat so I can clear them out of the way easily when it's time to anchor. If I ever get around to splicing an eye into them I'll due away with the bowline aft. I wouldn't recommend a cleat hitch for this application because of the possibity of it working loose in a sea way. We rig them before we leave the dock on overnight passages but are more casual on day passages. We clip on any time it is too hazardous to stand up without holding on. Fair winds, Brian Pickton , of BeneteauOwners.net, Aboard the Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Jan. 22, 2001 Hi Ed, We formerly rigged jackstays from the rear cleats to the forward cleats. We had been using webbing, but it was obviously of inferior quality because it rotted in the sun, and then some bug ate holes in it. The aft eye opening was a tight to fit over the cleat and the fore part was snubbed with some small stuff to keep it in place. The result was just a bit loose. Now we have reverted to 1/2 inch line and I secure it to the anchor cleat instead of the dock cleats at the bow. We lead them inside the shrouds, and because they are quite taut we are not concerned with them interfering with sheets, rails, etc. I tie them with a bowline round the stern cleat and I use a round turn and two half hitches at the anchor cleat so I can clear them out of the way easily when it's time to anchor. If I ever get around to splicing an eye into them I'll due away with the bowline aft. I wouldn't recommend a cleat hitch for this application because of the possibity of it working loose in a sea way. We rig them before we leave the dock on overnight passages but are more casual on day passages. We clip on any time it is too hazardous to stand up without holding on. Fair winds, Brian Pickton , of BeneteauOwners.net, Aboard the Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Docklines become jackstays
On our h27, we mount docklines looping through the eyes of the bow and stern cleats. We convert to jacklines by tieing a bowline in the bowline, looping the stern line through the bowline loop and back to the stern cleat where we can tension it quite well with the resulting 2 to 1 leverage. Under tension, this line runs right next to the cabin on the deck. The bowline knot lines up at the forward edge of the cockpit so it is easy to clip onto , and move forward without hanging up. At our slip, we leave the off side jackline in place. The dockside lines are converted to a jackline while motoring out of the harbor, then back to docklines as we motor back to the dock. All wear the harness and clip on when going forward with seas over 2 feet. The skipper is always clipped on under way unless one of the crew is fully qualified on the M.O.B. drill.
On our h27, we mount docklines looping through the eyes of the bow and stern cleats. We convert to jacklines by tieing a bowline in the bowline, looping the stern line through the bowline loop and back to the stern cleat where we can tension it quite well with the resulting 2 to 1 leverage. Under tension, this line runs right next to the cabin on the deck. The bowline knot lines up at the forward edge of the cockpit so it is easy to clip onto , and move forward without hanging up. At our slip, we leave the off side jackline in place. The dockside lines are converted to a jackline while motoring out of the harbor, then back to docklines as we motor back to the dock. All wear the harness and clip on when going forward with seas over 2 feet. The skipper is always clipped on under way unless one of the crew is fully qualified on the M.O.B. drill.
My 2 cents worth . . .
Ed, Most of my sailing is 1) single handed and 2) at night (after work), so I use jacklines quite a bit. I just have a couple of the pre-made (West Marine, I think) web lines. On each side of the boat, I run one end from the Sampson post and come all the way back to the cleat near the winch. I pull it real tight and cleat it off. Seems to work fine; doesn't get in the way, which makes it easier to stay clipped in. Cheers, John Reid Cheese 'n Crackers
Ed, Most of my sailing is 1) single handed and 2) at night (after work), so I use jacklines quite a bit. I just have a couple of the pre-made (West Marine, I think) web lines. On each side of the boat, I run one end from the Sampson post and come all the way back to the cleat near the winch. I pull it real tight and cleat it off. Seems to work fine; doesn't get in the way, which makes it easier to stay clipped in. Cheers, John Reid Cheese 'n Crackers
webbing is flat ...
this is the main advantage to a good quality webbing jackline over a round one. When one steps on it it lays flat rather than rolling over which can cause a fall or stumble.
this is the main advantage to a good quality webbing jackline over a round one. When one steps on it it lays flat rather than rolling over which can cause a fall or stumble.
We've already established I'm paranoid 
. . . but I too have the West Marine pre-made jacklines. I chose to go with them instead of making my own because the material they are made from is UV stabilized and will last longer than any of the bulk stuff I came across. I spend a lot of time aboard alone or with people who would not be able to turn the boat around to get me, so I wear a tether most of the time. I have an inflatable PFD/harness rig that I wear at all times aboard, and the jacklines are always deployed, so its not a big deal to clip in. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
. . . but I too have the West Marine pre-made jacklines. I chose to go with them instead of making my own because the material they are made from is UV stabilized and will last longer than any of the bulk stuff I came across. I spend a lot of time aboard alone or with people who would not be able to turn the boat around to get me, so I wear a tether most of the time. I have an inflatable PFD/harness rig that I wear at all times aboard, and the jacklines are always deployed, so its not a big deal to clip in. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
JACKLINES
I'm having my sailmaker make up a pair of jacklines of flat webbeing with a loop on one end for the sampson post and a rope stiched to the othe end to be fastened to the cleat near the cockpit. His feeling is that the flat jackline may slip when you most need it. I am preping my H36C for a run to Bermuda this summer.
I'm having my sailmaker make up a pair of jacklines of flat webbeing with a loop on one end for the sampson post and a rope stiched to the othe end to be fastened to the cleat near the cockpit. His feeling is that the flat jackline may slip when you most need it. I am preping my H36C for a run to Bermuda this summer.
Here's how I rig my H37 cutter
Hi, Ed. In our 10,000 of cruising we used jacklines quite a bit. We rigged them and just left them in place. Since we both have H37 Cutters, this should work for you, too. I got about 100' of good braided line for sheets, then cleated it on the aftmost cleat on one side. I ran it straight up the side to the bow. This left it right up against the point where the deck goes up at the cabin, so it's pretty much out of the way. Up front I installed two snatch blocks in the tow rail nearly at the bow, one on each side. I ran the line through one, across, then through the other and back to the rear most cleat on the other side. I used that cleat sort of like a turning block and took it to my sheet winch. I cranked it as tight as I could get it, and while holding a lot of tension on it, I removed it from the winch and cleated it. It sounds a bit hokie, but you really can pull it pretty tight, and you really can keep the tension on the line using the friction of the cleat. I cleated it off, and it remained for the entire trip each time. If I'd needed the snatch blocks for something, like running an anchor line through, they were always available, it would just have taken me a few munites to re-install the jackline. The first time we did it just as sort of a makeshift method until we figured out something better, but never found a problem with the makeshift method. Good luck.
Hi, Ed. In our 10,000 of cruising we used jacklines quite a bit. We rigged them and just left them in place. Since we both have H37 Cutters, this should work for you, too. I got about 100' of good braided line for sheets, then cleated it on the aftmost cleat on one side. I ran it straight up the side to the bow. This left it right up against the point where the deck goes up at the cabin, so it's pretty much out of the way. Up front I installed two snatch blocks in the tow rail nearly at the bow, one on each side. I ran the line through one, across, then through the other and back to the rear most cleat on the other side. I used that cleat sort of like a turning block and took it to my sheet winch. I cranked it as tight as I could get it, and while holding a lot of tension on it, I removed it from the winch and cleated it. It sounds a bit hokie, but you really can pull it pretty tight, and you really can keep the tension on the line using the friction of the cleat. I cleated it off, and it remained for the entire trip each time. If I'd needed the snatch blocks for something, like running an anchor line through, they were always available, it would just have taken me a few munites to re-install the jackline. The first time we did it just as sort of a makeshift method until we figured out something better, but never found a problem with the makeshift method. Good luck.
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