It was a PROFANITY FILTER sort of day!

[rgranger]

Kito

It was a Hunter gin pole... I know it looks slim but the thickness of the aluminum in the tube is a bit stout.

All U Get:

Yes the baby stay I show in the photo was one of the lines used to keep the mast from swaying.

Dave:

I'll give you a call soon.... It will be a few weeks before I can get back to this .... the next few weeks I'm busy with other obligations.

 

[flynhi4u]

Rranger, sounds like problems are going around. We're still parking lot camping in Spanish Ont. Hope together the boat lifted and the leak repaired today. Fingers crossed. Full moon tonight. We were really hoping to be on the water for that.

Sam

 

[Doug J]

I thought this was interesting. The owners manual states there is a hook on the mast end of the mast raising bridle for the 23.5 and a T-Ball on the 26. Rgranger, I wonder why yours has hooks. At first I thought you might have the 23.5 bridle wires, but there is a 10 inch difference.

H23.5

H26

 

[rgranger]

Wow

Thanks for digging that up. That is weird. I just now placed and order for a new pole... but the bridle wire still is in the "gathering specs" stage. The SBO folks are really helpful and I'm certain that we will either figure it out or I can make my own bridle wire. I just measured my bridle wire and it came right at 6" so it is definitely for the H26.

 

[jeffclown]

Rgranger,
I have a 1994 H26.
+1 that I would guess the baby stay hook at the mast had rotated around and was therefore put under tension. There really shouldn't be much tension on them during raising/lowering - just maintaining alignment.
My 1994 H26 has (presumably) original baby stays. They have hooks like yours, not T-ball indicated in the owners manual excerpt, but I imagine either would work. Also, I can confirm that the working length of the baby stays is about 5'11" (about 70-71") as shown in the attached photo. The length of mine is adjustable at the pelican hook end.
The gin pole is 1-1/2" stainless x ~ 8ft . I'm struggling to imagine how to salvage the gin pole you have by cutting and sleeving or extending - probably can't. In the interim, maybe you could borrow a similar diameter and length gin pole to get your mast up for the season, if it has appropriate notches to avoid the (structural) groove at the aft side inside of the mast.

 

[rgranger]

Thanks Jeff

 

[rgranger]

Well I had a delay in getting my boat fixed up (family stuff).... and during the delay I discovered a source for aluminum tubing so I purchased the parts I needed to make a new gin pole and to fix my baby stay. Total price in parts $45.

I also found some soft brass screws and reattached the mast foot.

Here are some pics of my jerry rig...

I appreciate everyone's help on this project. SBO is the best.

r

 

[rgranger]

Update....

When last I reported on my mast situation, I was ready to raise the mast. But when I got to the boat and started to attach the mast foot, I realized the mast foot was bent (torqued) so I had to order a new one of those. If I had tried to use the original mast foot, the mast would be hopelessly askew. Finally got all of the pieces either replaced or DIY made anew.

Went to the boat today and raised the mast. I HAD TWO FALSE STARTS.. both times the mast started to say to port, and the starboard baby stay would get real tight. I'd lower the mast and try to figure out what was causing this problem. I finally figured out what was going on...

I had the roller furled genoa sitting on the top of the mast as I raised it.. and it would start sliding a little to port. Didn't seem like anything to worry about but it started a compounding event... as the weight of genoa shifted to to port, the mast would also shift to port... which would cause the boat to list to port (I had the boat in the water). And as the boat would list to port, all of the above mentioned would shift even further to port and compound the entire affair. After I finally figured out the dynamics of why I was getting so much stress on the rigging, I bungee tied my roller furler to the mast so it would stay centered and I had my daughter walk the drum forward as I cranked the mast up... easy peasy, she went right on up with no trouble... We then used the boat hook to untie the bungees on the rolled up head sail. Made the boat ready and took her out for a short sail.

The only casualty in the end was my windex

Future procedure will include

1) RAISE THE MAST ON THE TRAILER!!!!!!!
That alone will solve any listing issues

2) Tie off the roller furler to the mast to keep it centered.

Thanks again everyone for your help and advice... and part numbers... Today was gorgeous and I actually got on the water a little bit. I'm hoping for a few warm days over T-giving and maybe break out the sleeping bags for one last sail overnight sail before the snow comes.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Rob, nicro press fitting are preferred and use two on each end but when using the clamps, one should be facing in the opposite direction. Never heard back from you. Today stone on the quarter mile drive way and ditching the embankment. What a pain.

 

[isaksp00]

I find that it is much easier to handle the mast with the jib removed from the furler and furler drum removed from forestay. That may not work for you if you "day sail", if you need to do this every time you sail. I only raise and lower mine once each per season.