It only flexes when you step on it.

Scotty C-M · Dec 4, 2013

How big of an area are you dealing with, and how close to structural members? The actual replacement of a piece of deck is a job that a "handy" person can do, and make it look quite nice.

allen-deckard · Dec 4, 2013

I don't want to be Debbie downer but yah pretty serious in my opinion.

Depends on what your plans are for the boat.

It's yours now. If your keepin it then ur gonna need to cut it out and from the sounds of it your gonna learn a whole lot about marine plywood and fiberglass work.

You can look it up and not sure I trust the product but the concept seems to be worth a second look but it's an epoxy resin product that comes with a large syringe and you drill a hole and fill the interior void with the epoxy apparently and most likely a lot of holes. Again duno if it works very well but would be an easy start point.

Second option duno what the budget is but take all your stuff off buy another boat maybe even find a solid boat that's missing a mast something missing the mast would probably be free.

Look on creigs list they pop up now and then and then take the best of both boats to make one good one.

Sorry bout the best I can do for ya.

azguy · Dec 4, 2013

Sounds like substantial rot

hawk232 · Dec 4, 2013

do searches on the internet and decide for yourself is the best option. i am in the same situation and what i came up with was that it will vary boat to boat and depend on where the rot is. the key components of structure are anywhere that a stay or shroud mounts and the mast step. if any of those are rotten then you have a big problem. if (like in my case) all of those components bolt to the actual hull, through non-cored areas, and the mast step area is solid then from what i can gather is that it is ok to sail, just not in a blow! it is true that the deck does provide support to keep the hull from "squishing" from the shrouds pulling it together, but (at least in my case) the glass that is there would be strong enough for this duty.

do keep in mind though that any that is bolted in these rotten areas needs GOOD backing plates... otherwise it may pull through the deck. for mine, i built a very rudimentary brace out of 2x4s to brace the roof over the v berth from flexing so much when i walk on it...

honestly though, i would research and decide for yourself

Jackdaw · Dec 5, 2013

Tobydaisy said:
The product I have seen, "Git Rot"?" sounds interesting as far as being able to just inject new epoxy. I worry that I may just be making more work for myself when it doesn't work and I have to cut and dig out that too. Do you have any thoughts on the different fillers to add to west system epoxy for working overhead, if I were to try to do this from inside the V berth.

You really can't ingore this.. if water is still getting in, and no reason to think it is not, it will only get worse. And then one day you will step right through the deck!

I used CPES to fix an area of wet deck on an old S2. The big trick is to dry the area. It has to be totally dry, and the leak fixed. That takes a month+ if you work from above and drill holes for air. But it DOES work.

http://www.rotdoctor.com

cjm1 · Dec 5, 2013

You need to bore small holes about an inch apart fore and aft all around the soft spot and do this from the top. Inject some pure alcohol and that will absorb the water and let it sit all winter (heated area would help). When completely dry (bone dry because epoxy resin will not spread into any moisture) inject epoxy resin until it will take no more. You should brace the deck underneath since the epoxy is heavy and will bow your headliner/fiberglass overhead. I would use the slower reacting epoxy resin to give it time to penetrate. If it is a large area you might need to cut the deck (top skin only) and insert some plywood and in that situation you might want to thicken the resin after you coat all surfaces with the resin (no additives).The secret is it needs to be 100% dry. Good luck

topcat0399 · Dec 5, 2013

If you are going to keep the boat you might as well just cut the top skin open and replace the core.

The hardest part is getting started, and if unfinished getting restarted.

.02

hawk232 · Dec 5, 2013

I use cabosil if thickening on structural parts or the fairing compound for filling/fairing (when strength is not as important).

west marine is tried and true but EXPENSIVE! I use this site for all my stuff... I typically use vinylester resin as it has higher adhesion than polyester and higher finishing product compatibility than epoxy (epoxy can only be covered with epoxy).

http://www.shopmaninc.com/index.html

again, you need to judge your intent. if you just want to gauge your sailing interest (like I am doing with my boat) then leaving it should be ok. if you are going to keep it then there is no question that rotten areas are weaker than structurally sound areas.

Jackdaw · Dec 6, 2013

Tobydaisy said:
Thank you for the leads regarding Rotdoctor.com and Shopmaninc.com, I am glad I'm not always at the mercy of West Marine.

No problem. Good stuff 1/2 down.

http://www.rotdoctor.com/glass/GLrotrepair.html

Minnesail · Dec 6, 2013

Tobydaisy said:
Love all the feed back, thanks.
I hope to keep this boat for a long time. I am probably over thinking the project right now, we have a long winter and the lake wont thaw until May.
She is covered and stored and under a blanket of snow today. I wont get to unwrap it until spring, thats when the fun begins.
Thank you for the leads regarding Rotdoctor.com and Shopmaninc.com, I am glad I'm not always at the mercy of West Marine.

I have the same issue with my recently purchased '74. A fairly large area of the foredeck is soft, but not near where any of the standing rigging attaches so I'm thinking it's not super-critical. My plan is to sail it for the summer of 2014 and get a feel for the boat, then address the issue next fall.

Cutting it out and replacing the core sounds like a lot of work, but seems like the way to go if a person intends to keep the boat. But like I said, I'm just going to leave it until after I've sailed it for a season.

kito · Dec 6, 2013

If you don't feel like messing with fixing it now then I would go ahead and make a router template to cut out the top fiberglass decking, dig out the rot, cover and let dry out over the winter. It will have to be done sooner or later....may as well start now so it will be ready to finish in the spring. If you install new plywood and reuse the deck piece that was cut out, the job will not be that big of a deal next spring. If you do a good job of blending in the epoxy seam it should not be too nocticable especially if you give all your non-skid a coat of Kiwigrip type paint.

Gene Neill · Dec 13, 2013

"It only flexes when you step on it"

That's what she said?

Picflight · Dec 13, 2013

You have great recourse provided. I would cut the lid of the rot, dig it out now and let it dry over winter. This is the best time to get started. As topcat said, the hardest part is getting started.

Snowman80 · Dec 14, 2013

I have a 6 by 6 area on the cabin top that looks like someone dropped to there knee really quick and made a circular indentation,it can wait i think till next fall.we will see in the spring

hewebb · Dec 14, 2013

If you can get hold of a vacuum pump ( the kind an A/C service would use) you can drill the holes in the deck and place a plastic sheet over the drilled area, seal it with putty around the edges, place a hose, with a vacuum gage on it, in the sealed area, turn the pump on. It will boil the moisture out provided the area is sealed. Let it run for a few hours. If it is not sealed and you cannot pull a vacuum, dry heat over time. Above all; you need to find the leak and get it fixed.