After commissioning a recently acquired Oday 272, it was pointed out by the boat yard that the reefing line was mostly pulled out and off the blocks inside the boom. And in the haste of setting it up, it was subsequently removed. Big Mistake. Now, I wish I had that reefing ability. Does anyone have any suggestions or experience in re-inserting that reefing line, through the series of blocks, without totally dismantling the boom?
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Vic
Is there a name on the boom?
my boom is an Isomat and there is no block system in the boom ... just at the ends ... standard quicky reefing seems to be to run a line from the cockpit to a block at the base of the mast up through a block at the reef point on the sail then straight down through the mast-end of the boom to the end of the boom up through the reef point and back to be tied around the boom. Not the way I do it but seems to be the way they suggest you do it. in any case just take the boom off, set upright a little vertical and drop a line down the center. Meanwhile ... do you have a diesel fuel gauge ... I can't find one on mine.
my boom is an Isomat and there is no block system in the boom ... just at the ends ... standard quicky reefing seems to be to run a line from the cockpit to a block at the base of the mast up through a block at the reef point on the sail then straight down through the mast-end of the boom to the end of the boom up through the reef point and back to be tied around the boom. Not the way I do it but seems to be the way they suggest you do it. in any case just take the boom off, set upright a little vertical and drop a line down the center. Meanwhile ... do you have a diesel fuel gauge ... I can't find one on mine.
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Don Evans
Call Rigrite
The folks at this site service Isomat and other types of spars. There very knowledgeable and good to talk with. I'm sure they will be able to assist you in setting up your internal reefing system. Good luck. Don
The folks at this site service Isomat and other types of spars. There very knowledgeable and good to talk with. I'm sure they will be able to assist you in setting up your internal reefing system. Good luck. Don
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Jerry B
Where Is RIGRITE Located?
Thanks for the input Don. Any idea what state they are in? Jerry B. burpolin@grolen.com
Thanks for the input Don. Any idea what state they are in? Jerry B. burpolin@grolen.com
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Jerry B
I once saw the diagram....
During my search for a good 272LE,I saw a drawing showing at least 3 sets of rollers/blocks INSIDE the boom. If you have a factory equipted LE, it should be there. BTW, mine is an 1989 with two reef points. jb
During my search for a good 272LE,I saw a drawing showing at least 3 sets of rollers/blocks INSIDE the boom. If you have a factory equipted LE, it should be there. BTW, mine is an 1989 with two reef points. jb
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Don Evans
Rhode Island
Jerry click on the related link at the bottom of my previous post to take you to their web site. Their address is at the top of their page. Cheers. Don
Jerry click on the related link at the bottom of my previous post to take you to their web site. Their address is at the top of their page. Cheers. Don
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Jerry B
Ffffantastic
THANK YOU Capt. Don !!! (If I open my other eye, maybe I could see these things...) jb
THANK YOU Capt. Don !!! (If I open my other eye, maybe I could see these things...) jb
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Vic
Maybe too complicated?
on hull #622 [boat name: Seven] the Isomat boom has three pulleys at the front end and three pulleys at the aft end of the boom. I use one set for the topping lift, one for the out haul, and one for reefing. I only ordered one reef in my new CD sail because I haven't had the need to reef more than that for the last 20 years. The outhaul and reefing line are led down at the mast and aft to the cockpit. I guess what we are seeing is that there is a lot of flexibility in how any boom is rigged and depends on the needs of the skipper. I like the ability to adjust the outhaul from the cockpit especially now that I am using a loose-footed main. While I use one set for the topping lift, that could easily be used for a second reef point. Operating single handed and from the cockpit ... you still have to get one line to handle the two reef points at each end of the boom and the way I described it in my earlier note is in a 272 operating manual page that Ernie W. kindly faxed to me. So I would love to hear how to use internal blocks for reefing on a 272 and if they are worth the additional complexity. In any case internal blocks are not needed to reef a 272 main. I simply hook the cunningham into the reef point at the mast and use the reefing line through the boom for the back reef point. Now a cunningham was probably not original equipment on a 272 but it can be used either as a cunningham or a boom vang or a preventer depending on where it is attached ... great all purpose device. In any case ... reefing takes a couple of minutes at the most ... and everything is where i can see it. note to Don: Rigrite looks like a keeper for sure ... will have to go visit them soon.
on hull #622 [boat name: Seven] the Isomat boom has three pulleys at the front end and three pulleys at the aft end of the boom. I use one set for the topping lift, one for the out haul, and one for reefing. I only ordered one reef in my new CD sail because I haven't had the need to reef more than that for the last 20 years. The outhaul and reefing line are led down at the mast and aft to the cockpit. I guess what we are seeing is that there is a lot of flexibility in how any boom is rigged and depends on the needs of the skipper. I like the ability to adjust the outhaul from the cockpit especially now that I am using a loose-footed main. While I use one set for the topping lift, that could easily be used for a second reef point. Operating single handed and from the cockpit ... you still have to get one line to handle the two reef points at each end of the boom and the way I described it in my earlier note is in a 272 operating manual page that Ernie W. kindly faxed to me. So I would love to hear how to use internal blocks for reefing on a 272 and if they are worth the additional complexity. In any case internal blocks are not needed to reef a 272 main. I simply hook the cunningham into the reef point at the mast and use the reefing line through the boom for the back reef point. Now a cunningham was probably not original equipment on a 272 but it can be used either as a cunningham or a boom vang or a preventer depending on where it is attached ... great all purpose device. In any case ... reefing takes a couple of minutes at the most ... and everything is where i can see it. note to Don: Rigrite looks like a keeper for sure ... will have to go visit them soon.
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Jerry B
Simplified Reefing
**(To VIC of Naples and Others) You're right! It may be very complicated to get the reefing line back through the boom. As you stated: "In any case internal blocks are not needed to reef a 272 main. I simply hook the cunningham into the reef point at the mast and use the reefing line through the boom for the back reef point. Now a cunningham was probably not original equipment on a 272 but it can be used either as a cunningham or a boom vang or a preventer depending on where it is attached ... great all purpose device." Is it possible that you could fax me(603)485-5954 or email a rough drawing of what you're describing above? Thanks for you comments- Jerry B.
**(To VIC of Naples and Others) You're right! It may be very complicated to get the reefing line back through the boom. As you stated: "In any case internal blocks are not needed to reef a 272 main. I simply hook the cunningham into the reef point at the mast and use the reefing line through the boom for the back reef point. Now a cunningham was probably not original equipment on a 272 but it can be used either as a cunningham or a boom vang or a preventer depending on where it is attached ... great all purpose device." Is it possible that you could fax me(603)485-5954 or email a rough drawing of what you're describing above? Thanks for you comments- Jerry B.
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Vic
will try to get a couple of pictures ...
over the next couple of days. West offers a Cunningham hook which fits into the top block of the boom vang ... which is not connected to the boom ... butt simply goes into the luff reef cringle. You still have to run a line through the boom to the back block which then goes up through the leech cringle and is either tied to that cringle or passes through that cringle and is the end is tied to the boom >>> that is if there is a slot or cringle right at the bottom edge of the sail about a foot or so in from the end of the sail. I have a loose footed main so it just gets tied where it works best. Vic
over the next couple of days. West offers a Cunningham hook which fits into the top block of the boom vang ... which is not connected to the boom ... butt simply goes into the luff reef cringle. You still have to run a line through the boom to the back block which then goes up through the leech cringle and is either tied to that cringle or passes through that cringle and is the end is tied to the boom >>> that is if there is a slot or cringle right at the bottom edge of the sail about a foot or so in from the end of the sail. I have a loose footed main so it just gets tied where it works best. Vic
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Tom Ehmke
Jerry, I did it myself, not once but twice
A couple of years ago I removed the outhaul and the reefing line (don't ask me why... I forgot anyway!!) during spring commissioning without pulling messenger lines through the boom. I guess I had an idea which I thought would improve single-handing capability... Anyway I lost both lines and had to remessenger them. I took a piece of small stuff (nylon cord), tied a sinker to it and lead it through the correct sheave at the foreward end of the boom. The sinker has to be small enough to pass over the sheaves at the foreward and aft ends of the boom. I took a fairly heavy sinker and flattened it with a hammer. I had to disconnect the gooseneck and lower the aft end of the boom to get the sinker to slide down. Once it reached the sheaves at the rear, I used a piece of light wire bent to hook the line and pulled the line onto the correct sheave. The small stuff became the messenger for rerouting the line to its original location. Repeated the same procedure for the other line and had them back where they were originally. Of course you will have to sew or tape the reefing line to the messenger. If you use tape, go easy with it or it won't pass over the sheaves and you could lose your messenger. You will have to remove the mainsail in order to disconnect the gooseneck and lower the boom to work on it, but it can be easily done right on board. If your 272 boom is made by Z-Spar like mine, there should be no problem reaching through the aft end of the boom to hook the messenger. Happy Fishing!! Tom
A couple of years ago I removed the outhaul and the reefing line (don't ask me why... I forgot anyway!!) during spring commissioning without pulling messenger lines through the boom. I guess I had an idea which I thought would improve single-handing capability... Anyway I lost both lines and had to remessenger them. I took a piece of small stuff (nylon cord), tied a sinker to it and lead it through the correct sheave at the foreward end of the boom. The sinker has to be small enough to pass over the sheaves at the foreward and aft ends of the boom. I took a fairly heavy sinker and flattened it with a hammer. I had to disconnect the gooseneck and lower the aft end of the boom to get the sinker to slide down. Once it reached the sheaves at the rear, I used a piece of light wire bent to hook the line and pulled the line onto the correct sheave. The small stuff became the messenger for rerouting the line to its original location. Repeated the same procedure for the other line and had them back where they were originally. Of course you will have to sew or tape the reefing line to the messenger. If you use tape, go easy with it or it won't pass over the sheaves and you could lose your messenger. You will have to remove the mainsail in order to disconnect the gooseneck and lower the boom to work on it, but it can be easily done right on board. If your 272 boom is made by Z-Spar like mine, there should be no problem reaching through the aft end of the boom to hook the messenger. Happy Fishing!! Tom
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