Your "Problems" - easily fixed!
We are sorry that you had problems - if you had earlier e-mailed or phoned directly we'd probably have fixed them for you already.The SEA GLOW that you used will brighten color and protect the gelcoat like no other product. Only our cleanser/conditioners can restore depth to black or dark blue gelcoat by removing deep down oxidation and preventing its return. Basically chalking should not come back if the surface is sealed well. Any dulling or "blushing" of the waxed finish should not be confused with return of gelcoat chalk and is easily fixed (see later ).I have my own boat and those of friends and customers treated with our products, out here in Honolulu. So, I can give you the benefit of my experience and result from many test panels on the mainland and here in Hawaii that go back over a year. Now to the Superwax coating. As you mentioned, the initial results are so dramatic that you literally will have people gawking in wonder. The initial shine is more akin to fresh LPU than to the usual "waxed look. With regards to durability of the shine, I thought that a little scientific explanation would be good to use first, followed by "quick fix" advice.Most all regular waxes use Carnuaba (carbon based) wax micronized and dissolved in petroleum base. Wax itself is like candle wax, - dull with a slighly chalky sheen but quite protective against the elements. The gloss comes from addition of dimethyl silicones that are very shiny, often very slippery too, but evaporate, causing evential loss of shine, and on their own, will be washed off with water, particularly with washing in detergent. However, detergent resistance comes from the addition of "aminofuntional silicones" that cross link, making a microscopic mesh that holds in the dimethyl silicone and wax components so that they are not readily lost by washing off or by weathering. Some wax formulations get additional durability from the use of a little resin, like a urethane or silicone resin. Salt from sea water and UV all help deteriorate the finish, but that is INSTEAD of deteriorating your gelcoat that is underneath! A good conventional paste wax will always outlast a liquid wax. Liquid "cleaner/waxes" are obviously easier to use (being liquid) and also have a bit of fine grit to aid dirt and oxidation removal. However, the finish is very thin (better suited to car paint for which they were actually designed) and basic oxidation in the pores of gelcoat will remain. Teflon in wax may aid water beading, but any significant amounts dulls the wax finish (have done the experiments). There is no perfectly weatherproof finish! Even two part LPU (a $8,000 paint job) can eventually flake or peel off and will slowly chalk and fade.An alternative approach, developed originally from the non-wax kitchen floor treatments is to use an acrylic water-based emulsion. This is the poor man's urethane clearcoat. Like all "paint jobs" the results depend not only the quality of the product, whether it has UV inhibitors etc but mainly upon the preparation. Any active chalk remaining underneath in the gelcoat "pores" or old wax will eventually affect adhesion, even more so than with a solvent-based clear coat- result can be flaking & peeling. Another problem with all acrylics is potential for yellowing on white boats. These finishes have to be applied carefully to avoid streaking using a special applicator and usually about 6 coats are required (90 hours to do a 40 ft boat I was told by one customer). Being water-based stand be applied if it rains etc. The best of these (Polyglow and Nuglass II) will last a season to a year (outlasting most wax application) but it is recommended that dullness is treated by another coat partway. Eventually the finish goes grey all the way through and is not that easy to remove (wet sanding may be required). Now to our SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax. It is not perfect but has been incrementally improved in response to customer input. However it is well on the way to meeting "holy grail" requirements of something you wipe on in one or two coats without buffing, shines better than almost anything and will outlast (with minimum maintenance) any other wax finish. The basic wax protection will last up to a year (seen as water beading). It is easy to clean, remove or partially remove (e.g. getting rid of ingrained dirt) with our cleaners.Its base is a super hard "synthetic" wax (little carbon) and three different resins, one of which is very fast setting, so aiding in the easy application and one that is VERY hard. The mirror shine is due to it's "flowing out" into a smooth surface and also due to the dimethylsilicones, which, if on the surface as "sweating" (wax put on thick?, bottle not well shaken?) can form an emulsion with water causing "blushing. Weathering (seen as dulling) of the resin/wax base has been greatly reduced by addition of anti-oxidant & free radical scavengers (from Feb 2001) but we are always experimenting (in the tropics) to improve weathering resistance even more.The underlying wax/resin base eventually becomes very hard, yet not brittle, and can be buffed, even by hand, to a great shine, - but there are much easier ways to keep it shiny (see below).Here are the Fixes( and they are easy):1. Try to wash the boat down with fresh water periodically to minimise salt accumulation and air pollution run off (you would certainly do this with your car!). All boats, no matter what the finish get streaks from pollution runoff. I get this on my boat that is next to a roadway. Oily pollution (black streaks) get into the Superwax coating but grey streaks are usually more superficial. Fixing takes a minute or two. Just use some of our cleaner on paper towel (I use IG pink, with or without some water for mild surface pollution) and wipe with paper towel. Spritz on and wipe over with a little SILKENSEAL if you want mirror shine. Alternatively (when dry) the wax can be lightly buffed for a "waxed look. Kerosine or mineral spirit can also be used to remove streaks, but they leave a milky residue from the dissolved wax, although this can also be removed with Silkenseal or touched in with fresh Superwax.2. Treat excessive blushing, dulling or "oily" areas (actual source of the original problem) by mopping over with a little ISLAND GIRL Pink diluted in water (enough pink to clean the suface of any oiliness but not enough to dissove the wax/resin base). You can use trial and error on a small area, but about 20-50% pink in water is a good starting point. To do this on the hull sides (without the dinghy) I used a broom with the head wrapped in microfiber cloth. I had to fix dullness a few days after a downpour of rain occured just as we had finished putting on the Superwax. This was posted in the IG monthly newsletter(send me you e-mail address to be on the list).Then wipe over with Silkenseal (using same broom method on big area, but obviously with a different cloth - any cloth will do or use paper towel by hand. The aminofunctionals silicones in the SILKENSEAL will seal the surface, bring back the wet look and will improve durability of the surface (I am investigating whether an initial coat of Silkenseal might have been a good idea anyway). You will be suprised to learn that the finish on the boat improves with time when treated like this. My hull sides still look great and I sail every week in the Pacific Ocean.3. On dark stripes and "obvious" surfaces that are more exposed to weathering (e.g. my topsides and stripe) , occassionally (4-6 months or so) wipe over with more Superwax (but shake the bottle and use in thin coats). Try not to apply over dirt, although the wax will clean off surface dirt (you have to wipe it off ) a little pink and water first will save wax usage, even though it temporarily dulls the surface until the Superwax is applied. I have used this approach to completely restore badly pitted gelcoat with the pits filled with the Superwax - it looks just like regularly waxed new gelcoat.All of the above is on this year's wax instruction sheet but not in the detail given here. After further editing, I will post this reply on the the IslandGirlProducts.com website where anyone can always e-mail for response or call us at 1-800-441-4452.ANYONE putting another product over a boat first receiving our is wasting money and effort and the benefit of the prior treatment with our Cleanser/Conditioners will largely be negated by dissolving out with petroleum distillates. For instance, neither I nor the magazines I have read have found any liquid wax to shine more than a month or so. Practical Sailor found that even Collinite Pastewax (the benchmark) dulled at 3 months . Collinite with a layer of Silkenseal will, however, give a finish almost as good as with Superwax and it will last well, but this is a multi-step and time-consuming process that still involves buffing of the paste wax. By contrast, you just wipe on our Superwax (no buffing required)!I personally stand behind our claims and, as you know, there is a money back warranty. Thank you for the critical input, even if half the world has read it first before I had a chance to reply! ThanksJim WillisPresident, IGP