I am thinking of using the Island Girl products, Sea Glow, Silken Seal and Superwax when I prep my Hunter 35.5 Legend for launch. I am hoping that this will resolve some of the brown staining that appeared this past summer on the bow of the boat just above the water line. However, before I proceed, I would like any feedback from past users of Island Girl. Do these products work and for how long does it last? Any problems with discoloring? Any problems removing the product later if you didn't like it. Thank you for your feedback
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Yes, archive search is in order
Here's my take on it, although it comes with a warning that I am biased. We sell the stuff and even if we didn't, I believe in it. If you follow the instructions, it will work very well. if you don't follow the instructions, results can be mixed. The instructions are not always clear, but you can always pick up the phone call the guy who invented the stuff. Jim will spend as much time as you need to get it right. What you gain is a product that does not have to be 'removed' -- it may be the only product of its kind that is not essentially a shiny plastic coating you wipe over your hull. Thus, it doesn't yellow or require some stripping chemical. You're really conditioning the gelcoat, rather than covering it. I think it's pretty ingenious. Also, Jim is making some videos about application that should help folks understand how to use it properly. Like I said, this is not an unbiased opinion, you'll find ample support for it in the archives... along with a few users who had trouble applying it properly. ph.
Here's my take on it, although it comes with a warning that I am biased. We sell the stuff and even if we didn't, I believe in it. If you follow the instructions, it will work very well. if you don't follow the instructions, results can be mixed. The instructions are not always clear, but you can always pick up the phone call the guy who invented the stuff. Jim will spend as much time as you need to get it right. What you gain is a product that does not have to be 'removed' -- it may be the only product of its kind that is not essentially a shiny plastic coating you wipe over your hull. Thus, it doesn't yellow or require some stripping chemical. You're really conditioning the gelcoat, rather than covering it. I think it's pretty ingenious. Also, Jim is making some videos about application that should help folks understand how to use it properly. Like I said, this is not an unbiased opinion, you'll find ample support for it in the archives... along with a few users who had trouble applying it properly. ph.
Cold weather application was a problem....
I tried to used the product last year with mixed results. The spring weather in Milwaukee was very cold and I had difficulties applying the products. After an email to Island Girl, they did respond quickly with a new spray catalyst, sent for free, to try and help with the application, which did help somewhat. The Sea Glow did clean up the hull very well and removed all of the deep oxydation (my H37C had been neglected and left exposed, outside, in dry dock for 6 years), the sealant work OK, but I really did not get good results with the Superwax or Superglaze. In the end I treated one side with the Island Girl complete process and did the other with the Sea Glow, Silkenseal and finish with a good application of 3M wax with a buffer. At the end of the season, the 3M side had held up better. So my conclusion is the cleaners (although very thick in viscosity) worked great, with a lot of application difficulties, to remove all oxidation from the fiberglass. As to the rest of the products, with the exception of the Pink stuff, I won't do it again here in WI. If you read the archives, they seem to indicate better results in warmer climate applications. Richard S/V Rhapsodie
I tried to used the product last year with mixed results. The spring weather in Milwaukee was very cold and I had difficulties applying the products. After an email to Island Girl, they did respond quickly with a new spray catalyst, sent for free, to try and help with the application, which did help somewhat. The Sea Glow did clean up the hull very well and removed all of the deep oxydation (my H37C had been neglected and left exposed, outside, in dry dock for 6 years), the sealant work OK, but I really did not get good results with the Superwax or Superglaze. In the end I treated one side with the Island Girl complete process and did the other with the Sea Glow, Silkenseal and finish with a good application of 3M wax with a buffer. At the end of the season, the 3M side had held up better. So my conclusion is the cleaners (although very thick in viscosity) worked great, with a lot of application difficulties, to remove all oxidation from the fiberglass. As to the rest of the products, with the exception of the Pink stuff, I won't do it again here in WI. If you read the archives, they seem to indicate better results in warmer climate applications. Richard S/V Rhapsodie
Island Girl Products
I don't know about stopping the brown water stain you refer to but I am extremely satisfied with their products. They have done a wonderfull job restoring the gel coat on my 1980 C&C, beter then anything else I have tried, and it lasts much longer than the other projects I've used.
I don't know about stopping the brown water stain you refer to but I am extremely satisfied with their products. They have done a wonderfull job restoring the gel coat on my 1980 C&C, beter then anything else I have tried, and it lasts much longer than the other projects I've used.
Removing brown stains at the water line
I have had good luck using a product called Zapp which contains hydrochloric acid. I was concerned that the acid might damage the finish but I have used it for the past 3 years with no problem. You just swab it on with this fuzzy applicator thing and rinse it off. It is really easy. Anything else I have ever tried would not touch the stain. If you are interested I can look on the container for purchase info, let me know. Jim
I have had good luck using a product called Zapp which contains hydrochloric acid. I was concerned that the acid might damage the finish but I have used it for the past 3 years with no problem. You just swab it on with this fuzzy applicator thing and rinse it off. It is really easy. Anything else I have ever tried would not touch the stain. If you are interested I can look on the container for purchase info, let me know. Jim
Oxalic acid for yellow/brown stain on bow
I don't have much personal experience with IG, but hope to try out the products soon; I'll report my findings. Regarding the yellowish color just above the waterline on the bow (for boats in saltwater), I've successfully used Oxalic Acid for quickly and easily removing the discoloration. Oxalic acid is typically used for bleaching wood, but works great for this application when mixed with water in a spray bottle. Mix, spray, wait a few minutes, rinse well with water. No rubbing needed at all. Davis makes a blue gel with the same active ingredient called FSR (Fiberglass Stain Remover). Be sure to wax after you get the discoloration removed or it will reappear in short order (and wear protective gloves!). Best, Trevor
I don't have much personal experience with IG, but hope to try out the products soon; I'll report my findings. Regarding the yellowish color just above the waterline on the bow (for boats in saltwater), I've successfully used Oxalic Acid for quickly and easily removing the discoloration. Oxalic acid is typically used for bleaching wood, but works great for this application when mixed with water in a spray bottle. Mix, spray, wait a few minutes, rinse well with water. No rubbing needed at all. Davis makes a blue gel with the same active ingredient called FSR (Fiberglass Stain Remover). Be sure to wax after you get the discoloration removed or it will reappear in short order (and wear protective gloves!). Best, Trevor
Tend to agree
Results vary on following the instructions, but the instructions are verbose and occasionally contradictory. Warm weather is preferred over cold, and the catalyst does work. I would suggest that Dr. Ellis recast the instructions in a boxed matric that's easier to read and more precise. But that's the editor in me. Come spring we'll see how the results stand up.
Results vary on following the instructions, but the instructions are verbose and occasionally contradictory. Warm weather is preferred over cold, and the catalyst does work. I would suggest that Dr. Ellis recast the instructions in a boxed matric that's easier to read and more precise. But that's the editor in me. Come spring we'll see how the results stand up.
Ditto archives, my two cents
(Has anyone notice that the "cent" symbol has disappeared from keyboards?) Sea Glow works really well for poorly-maintained decks/hulls. I really liked the concept of reconditioning the gelcoat, so used the product, carefully following directions, in hot bright sunlight, which seems to be important. The directions, as others have noted, are not as clear as they could be, but they do state that bright sunlight is required as part of the process. Silkenseal worked well finishing that job off. Don't like Superwax at all, and I think that's where you get the negative comments in the archives. It leaves a film which is a dirt/bug magnet, and is just two slippery. Tom
(Has anyone notice that the "cent" symbol has disappeared from keyboards?) Sea Glow works really well for poorly-maintained decks/hulls. I really liked the concept of reconditioning the gelcoat, so used the product, carefully following directions, in hot bright sunlight, which seems to be important. The directions, as others have noted, are not as clear as they could be, but they do state that bright sunlight is required as part of the process. Silkenseal worked well finishing that job off. Don't like Superwax at all, and I think that's where you get the negative comments in the archives. It leaves a film which is a dirt/bug magnet, and is just two slippery. Tom
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