Is this the trailer for a wing keel 23' Hunter?
- Thread starter tdboss
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Dave has probably been in bed for two hours or more. It’s a good thing, too. He needs all the beauty sleep he can get.
Dave has probably been in bed for two hours or more. It’s a good thing, too. He needs all the beauty sleep he can get.
It looks like a K whopper. What is throwing everyone off is the guides close to the keel tray. However, if you want a definite answer, please provide the first 6 numbers/letters of the VIN number.. That will tell for sure.
Looks mostly like mine. See if it is a KWS trailer (Ken's Welding Service I think). If so that is added evidence. The angled pieces next to the keel tray seem odd, but I think these trailers tend to have customized keel aligners. The photos don't show those very clearly but it almost looks like they would be in the way of the wings.
Ask the dog in the previous post.
Ask the dog in the previous post.
Good morning gents. Hard at work cleaning long quarter mile driveway of debri called ice and snow. Kermit can attest that as he used his slimy green tongue to sled down the driveway. Har Har
As for dog, I got one that will run circles around it just like mine does but she sure is a lot of company while the boss is away. Running me crazy like the better half
As for dog, I got one that will run circles around it just like mine does but she sure is a lot of company while the boss is away. Running me crazy like the better half
This is the best I can show you of what was mine. Yours doesn’t seem to have the bow-stopping-roller-thingy that keeps you from crashing into the front of the trailer. And my spare tire was mounted in a different place. But it really does look pretty-much the same.
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Fantastic response from a very helpful group. Here is a side picture which clarifies the cranking situation. Thanks very much for the correct identification of this relic that does not look to be in bad shape (steel). Have to talk to the fellow about the bearings.
Bearings are not too hard to replace, and not too expensive. I redid my bearings (new bearings and races, new seals) and also the entire brake system (new surge actuator, new brake lines, new drum brakes, new lights and wiring) last summer. I was able to do all the work myself, and bought all the parts online. I'd say it cost me about $300 to $350 in parts. I also needed new tires, you may not. Mine had what I assume to be all the original parts from 1991. Don't know what this one costs, but I assume you have a 23 and need a trailer. If you need one, you need one - and I assume they are kind of few and far between. I would not necessarily reject this because of the brakes or bearings, if the price is fair. Check the actuator and brakes, so you can factor that in.
Those keel alignment paddles look like they would be really handy. I always had trouble getting the keel centered and usually ended up pulling the boat in and out two or three times. Out of curiosity, my trailer has the sliding "leg" for the bow on it that Kermit mentioned. I don't understand the point of it though, when you extend the tongue to back into the water, you have to take that off anyway since it attaches to the extending part of the tongue, so how does it help in any way?
You mean the vertical bar with one roller at the top? I don't have to remove that when I extend the tongue, it is attached to the trailer frame itself and not the tube that slides out to extend. I wonder if yours is attached differently so that it blocks the extension from moving. That said, my hull never really touches that roller anyway, and others have posted comments that they feel it is useless. I posted a thread about this a few months ago.
Before going any further, can you check your trailer registration as it will show the mfg. and vin number. If it is a Kens Welding or KWS, it is a Hunter 23 wing keel trailer.
Then I will respond to that tongue extension from the perspective as a dealer with suggestions of dos and do nots as to safety.
Then I will respond to that tongue extension from the perspective as a dealer with suggestions of dos and do nots as to safety.
Since I never have had a trailer for the 23, what is the boat loading process. How far in do you have to go in to get it loaded or is a hoist necessary?
No hoist. Load it like any other boat. Get bow all the way to the front. Pull forward a little, then get the bow all the way to the front again. And you can pull her on out. I like to raise and lower the mast while the boat is in the water, but either way works.
Be a bit careful about how tight you winch it onto the trailer before pulling the trailer out. Unless your ramp is pretty level, the trailer will be angled compared to the level (floating) boat when you first attach and winch in on the bow eye. As you haul out, the boat will tilt back to be level with the trailer, causing the bow and eye to pull back from the trailer winch. If the strap is too tight, you might do damage to the eye (u-bolt) and the fiberglass area where it attaches. Keep in mind this doesn't work like a motorboat, where you drive it right up onto the bunks. If like mine, the boat will probably have to end up a bit too far back on the trailer, and won't be right up against the rubber chocks. If the keel is slimy you may be able to winch it forward on level ground (ideally, parked so the trailer tilts a bit down toward the front). Or drive the tow vehicle forward and brake, using momentum to slide the boat up. This latter technique did not really work for me, but others have used it.
The key is to not try to force the bow up into the chocks as you load, before you haul the trailer up - that may not be geometrically possible.
The key is to not try to force the bow up into the chocks as you load, before you haul the trailer up - that may not be geometrically possible.