Is this centerboard ruined?

Sep 19, 2016
172
Caliber 33 Sebastian, FL
Recently acquired a 'fixer upper' 23.5. The inspector warned me about a crack in the centerboard but it was too cheep to pass up. Only replacement I can find is $1k (more than I paid for the boat) and has a 20 day lead time so I was hoping that it would be possible to save this one. Pictures attached. It's a 2 ft long split down the middle that has gone unattended for some time. I can see that the wood is swelling around the crack. Inspector suggested filling with epoxy but it seems like that would take a quart of epoxy to fill.
 

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Jun 8, 2004
10,330
-na -NA Anywhere USA
It can be repaired but will need to be removed and to be on the safe side laid up for a few months to make sure it is dry but not sure as we need a head on shot of that centerboard to be sure if repairs can be made. The centerboard was originally made by Foss Foam and I thought there was a steel frame inside a foam core (lighter weight) surrounded by two married fiberglass sides with gel coat. Bob Walker who makes them is extremely helpful and would be the best source for repair if you approached him kindly with photos as another photo would be needed. There are many previous and current owners who have done that and they would be willing to help you as well.

Also suggest that for future reference you ask your questions on this boat in the small boat section of Hunter.
I am a former dealer but it has been a long time and I rely on the help of those who have done that for their knowledge and experience in recent years.
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,548
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
Dave's on the money here. One other question... are you missing the cover for your ballast tank? From the picture it looks like you might be.... If so, that would need to be replaced... as you heel over, the water in your ballast tank would drain out.. and then you keep rolling over until you are in a bad way.

H23.5.png
 
May 24, 2004
7,141
CC 30 South Florida
Postpone a replacement until it is absolutely necessary. The center board is not a critical item for stability and even if it fell off the boat will not capsize because of it. A repair job with epoxy and fiberglass will surely extend its life at a reasonable cost. I'm of the opinion that a Half A__ed Job might be good enough for a few years. I would drill some drain holes at the lowest point of the center board as it sits on the trailer. Allow any water to drain and then let it dry (hard in Florida) for a couple of days. A fan blower could be used to help. Slap epoxy on the holes and in the exposed crack and after it dries cover with fiberglass cloth and resin. A little sanding and paint and it will likely be good to go with minimum expense, effort or delay. It will give you a chance perhaps to perform other more critical fixes that you may encounter.
 
Sep 19, 2016
172
Caliber 33 Sebastian, FL
Hey! I can do the job as Half A**d as the next guy!
I'm glad it's foam. I thought I was looking at a wood core.
What do you guys think about attempting to fix this on the trailer? It didn't occur to me until now that I can reach all of the affected area. The boat has been on a trailer for several months so I would imagine that the centerboard it's fairly dry.
I have a bucket of epoxy and some wood flour that I bought for another project. I figure I can mix it nice and thick to keep it from just oozing out.. Clamp a pair of 2x4 around the center board to try and squeeze it back into shape, wait a day then some fiberglass?
Will check on the plug for the balast thanks.

Thanks all for the help.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,330
-na -NA Anywhere USA
whoa fellow. Lets get some other opinions until the other photo is put up here and some can help you thru but great to know you are willing to take on the job. You are not squeamish.
 
Oct 19, 2006
337
Hunter 27-3 Brownsville, VT/Mystic, CT
One other question... are you missing the cover for your ballast tank? From the picture it looks like you might be.... If so, that would need to be replaced... as you heel over, the water in your ballast tank would drain out.. and then you keep rolling over until you are in a bad way.
Don't neglect this observation. You can get that part off this site:

http://shop.hunterowners.com/hp/part.php?m=23.5&c=13&p=54383

And you'll need the gasket too:

http://shop.hunterowners.com/hp/part.php?m=23.5&c=13&p=54932
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,330
-na -NA Anywhere USA
need side shot and take during the day. the one of above was blurry so if taking with an I phone, take one that is clear and I can enlargen.
 
Dec 2, 2003
763
Hunter 260 winnipeg, Manitoba
Can't tell for sure from photo but is top flange of cross member missing under the centreboard? Did you remove the bunk that supports the centreboard or is it just not visible in photo?
 
Oct 19, 2006
337
Hunter 27-3 Brownsville, VT/Mystic, CT
I think I see the bunk board in the background. My centerboard has a similar orientation on the trailer.
 
Sep 19, 2016
172
Caliber 33 Sebastian, FL
Not sure what flange you mean. The centerboard bunks look like the back half was cut off. I see the brackets that they are supposed to slide into. Looks like the old center bunk was some kind of plywood...
 
Dec 2, 2003
763
Hunter 260 winnipeg, Manitoba
Cross members look to be c channels. In the Center section under the Center board the top horizontal piece of the c seems to be corroded or cut away. This would significantly reduce the strength of the crossmember.

Perhaps Dave remembers if this was standard on a factory trailer or if someone modified it in some way. (Perhaps to lower its launch/recovery depth?)

The Center board bunk on the 260 trailer and most 240's that I have seen pictures of have a 2x piece of lumber. They also go to near or past the pivot for the Center board. These are mounted over the top flange on the c channel.

I would be concerned if the ramp was steep that the centreboard might contact the cross members doing damage to either the trailer, the boat or both.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,330
-na -NA Anywhere USA
waiting a better photo of the centerboard from the side and now of the trailer to verify but the keel tray ran to the back of the trailer frame.
 
Oct 28, 2013
678
Hunter 20 Lake Monroe
If you try to fix it on the trailer you will probably wind up with a bunch of epoxy dripping on you if you are under it. I would suggest removing it but if you can't then thicken your epoxy with the appropriate thickening agent first to build up the recessed area then finish with cloth. But again, it would be a much better and easier repair if you removed the center board. Unlike a swing keel, it wont weigh too much and be much easier to handle that our 4oolb slab of steel.

Sam
 
Sep 19, 2016
172
Caliber 33 Sebastian, FL
Here are some more pictures. Sorry for the delay. I spent the weekend replacing the axle, lights, and winch. Many bolts had to be cut. Had to rent a pneumatic impact wrench to get the old lug nuts off.. Was quite an ordeal. You can see the ballast tank plug in one of the pics so I think I'm OK there.
 

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Sep 19, 2016
172
Caliber 33 Sebastian, FL
I ended up getting the boat lifted today and pulling the centerboard out. The whole thing was easier than I expected. I was expecting to bring it home and work on it but then the fiberglass guy offered to fix it for $300.. I figured it was worth it just to get it done quicker. Now I can go home and work in that center bunk. So I gather that the preferred setup is a single 2x? down the middle?
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,330
-na -NA Anywhere USA
replace the centerboard line which is a 7/16 inch yacht braid soft but low stretch while it is out. buy 20 feet.
Need help we can help you with that if need to be replaced.