That's what I thought, until...
I had a good look at my bolts from the inside while pulling new cabling. Some had nuts & bolts and a few areas used large screws. I assume this was as they were too hard to get at with a nut. My factory VHS tape from 1988 only talks of nuts & bolts. I found a few loose nuts but most were tight. My deck-hull joint does leak slightly in rougher seas, but not enough to worry about.The MacGregor deck-hull joint is perfectly fine for the boat's intended use. It's a vertical overlap, which is the easiest to mold and assemble. This allows MacGregor engineers to design and build boats we can afford... Good for them.This is paraphrased from http://www.samlmorse.com/Index-6.htm-The deck adds to the strength of the boat, but, it is only as strong as the method used to attach it to the hull. Some builders use an out turning flange, some a vertical connection and others an in turning flange. The out turning flange must be small or narrow, because it would stick out too far beyond the hull. The vertical connection has many variations ~. The in turning flange is more popular because it adds strength to the sheer line; the wider the flange the stronger the sheer. The problem with this method is that it costs more to build the molds because it must be in two parts so the "piece" can be removed. The wider the flange the more surface on which to set the deck so the joint will be stronger. On a wide flange the deck can be through bolted, staggering the bolts so they are not in line. This is an excellent method as long as the flange is wide enough to provide structural support for the deck and the fiberglass bonding material is heavy and on both sides.On Tartan boats the hull to deck joint is an inward facing hull flange, bonded with 3M 5200 adhesive sealant, and with an integrally molded hardened 6061 T6 aluminum bar forming a full sheer length backing plate. Stainless steel fasteners sized to meet or exceed ABS standard for offshore use, are drilled and tapped into the aluminum bar, offering full serviceability from the outside of the boat.On the MacGregor it's just a straight line of fasteners, most with a small washer to spread the load on thin FRP. MacGregor doesn't use a backing blate or fiberglass bonding material as it would be over-kill on one area. It wouldn't make sense to build a blue-water deck-hull joint without bringing the rest of the hull, rudder, rigging, etc. up to blue-water specs.I love my Mac 26D and I think MacGregor designs the best trailerable sailboats. The recent changes in the 26M are excellent (I wish I had the money) and I highly recommend a MacGregor. It's just not the right boat to sail to Hawaii. Bahamas yes, Hawaii no. Buy a Mac 26M and sign up for this trip. It sounds like great fun: http://www.conchcruisers.net/For the best advice on a 26M talk to this dealer who speaks from many miles of experience, including Bahamas. http://www.boats4sail.info/This guy has done some island hopping around the Caribbean on his 26X. http://macgregorsailors.com/explore/exumas/index.php