The exhaust hose attached to my riser is reinforced with a spiral steel wire. It makes for a poor fit and extremely difficult to install and remove. I've even tried going up one size but never got it far enough on to get two hose clamps on it. Is there any benefit to the reinforced hose? The rest of the exhaust is not like this
Is a reinforced exhaust hose really necessary?
- Thread starter Project_Mayhem
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Probably not needed for a short straight hose. The wire is used to keep it from kinking/collapsing in a bend or when heated.
It is necessary to use exhaust rated hose due to the temperature and the rather caustic chemicals that show up as a result of combustion gases mixing with warm water.
Trident makes several different kinds of exhaust hose, one of them might be easier to install. Vetus also makes a more flexible hose.
tridentmarine.com
Trident makes several different kinds of exhaust hose, one of them might be easier to install. Vetus also makes a more flexible hose.
Wet Exhaust Hose Archives - Trident
Since you are talking about the short hose between the mixing elbow and the water lift, I would suggest a silicone hump hose. They have greater heat resistance and are very flexible which prevents the vibration of the engine being transferred to the water lift.
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I was looking at their silicone wet exhaust hose given how well my short hump hose has worked for the last 20-years. Then I looked up the price.It is necessary to use exhaust rated hose due to the temperature and the rather caustic chemicals that show up as a result of combustion gases mixing with warm water.
Trident makes several different kinds of exhaust hose, one of them might be easier to install. Vetus also makes a more flexible hose.
Wet Exhaust Hose Archives - Trident
About 7x of the rubber wet exhaust hose. They ain't cheap either.
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No, it is not cheap but it is a lot cheaper than breaking the fitting off the water lift. The 1 5/8" needed for my C30 costs $51 bucks for that 6" long hose but to use the silicone hose to replace my full 12' length of exhaust hose from the water lift to the transom would be over $700 and it is not even available in 1 5/8".They ain't cheap either.
Trident Marine Hose 272V2000SS | Fisheries Supply
Save More on Your Trident Marine Hose #272V2000SS 2IN BLU VHT SLC HUMP HOSE W/CLAMPS at Fisheries Supply. Excellent Customer Service, Ready to Ship. Marine Supplies Since 1928!
I used to have the same problem pulling the exhaust hose off of the exhaust elbow. Try slathering the interior and exterior of the hose and exterior of the riser with a NON petroleum grease such as Super Lube. You must get two hose clamps on the joint but when you do, the right hand of god isn't enough to pull them apart. With the hose clamps removed, the joint nicely separates.
Wow the silione hoses, even without the hump, are as expensive if not more than a good brand of exhaust hose. Out of curiosity, why can't boats use automotive heater/radiator hoses?
What do you mean my electric bilge pump can't keep up with an engine powered pump!?
It took multiple attempts to get it on the riser, even with lube
They are too soft and not made to resist the high temperature of diesel exhaust. Diesel exhaust before the water is injected is about 800+° F. Water and exhaust produce caustic chemicals which the hose must be resistant to.
I have a two stroke. Water is injected into the exhaust riser and the rubber hose. Would it work in this application?
Wrap your hands around the hose at WOT and see what it's like for temperature. It's probably well below any temperature that's going to cause any problems to the hose. What would worry me is that if you were to have a raw water pump failure or forget to open the thru-hull, the automotive rad hose could get to a temperature where it might cause a problem as opposed to a marine exhaust hose.
You bring up a good point. I have smelled rubber burning when I had a water flow issue
In case anyone is wondering the same in the future - The new, non-wire reinforced, 1.5" hose slipped on the 1.75" muffler almost effortlessly after spraying some lube on it. To my shock and dismay, the old 1-5/8" wire reinforced hose that took 1.5 hours to get on, came right off. Apparently the wire stretched over time??
The rubber material either compressed or shrunk over time.
One other assist I always use when fitting rubber hoses is a hair dryer. For the hose, NOT me ! The heat has less that "0' effect on the steel wire but it will soften the rubber and often give you another 0.001" of room to jam the hose on it's fitting. Same goes for hose removal to break the corrosion products/rubber adhesion joint.
I have a friend that's a marine mechanic. He said he's used torches to work magic when it comes to exhaust hoses. I think a heated water bath would work well without damaging the material
I've tried the hot water route but can't get the temperature up to where it has any effect. You want it up where you can't keep your hand on the hose for more than a second. A heat gun is too hot for someone with my level of impatience. That's why I use a hair dryer.
The hose went on the muffler without too much trouble. The exhaust manifold was another story. I tried applying some grease without much luck so I used a butane stove I had on board. I held it just far enough away from the flame to keep it from smoking. I slowly rotated it for two minutes and immediately pushed it on. I was able to get it on just far enough for two hose clamps. Another half inch would've been nice but this will do. If I have to do this job again, I'll warm it up for 4-5 minutes. Winter work gloves allowed me to touch any part of the heated hose I wanted. I didn't feel the slightest bit of heat.