As I've indicated here earlier, I am going to be buying a 320 soon, probably hull No. 148 which is in stock at the local Hunter dealer. It has a 30 amp alternator. Is this sufficient for charging the batteries without having to run the engine for hours while on the water for a week? Also, do I understand correctly that bottom paint is an option?. If so,then the dealer must have ordered the boat with it because the bottom is blue. I have also noticed that there is always about half an inch of water in the bilge where the keel bolts come through, is this normal? The Autohelm ST30 depthfinder on this boat has been upgraded to and ST60 at a cost of $ 321, is this a worthwhile investment? Can anyone tell me what the standard anchor package is on the 320? Thanks in advance for your comments.
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Pete
320
Don't know about the 30 amp alternator but it sounds on the small side but it realy depends on your electrical usage.Ihave a st 30 depth and it works good(reads acccurate depth)can't think of why I world spend $350 to up grade to a new model that will do the same thing. (use the money to urgrade your alternator) Bottom paint is a optopn as there are some many type on the market some dealer will put it in the package while other may not, suggest you use a good guality multi-season ablative paint (at least two if not three coats) Good Luck on your new boat purchase!
Don't know about the 30 amp alternator but it sounds on the small side but it realy depends on your electrical usage.Ihave a st 30 depth and it works good(reads acccurate depth)can't think of why I world spend $350 to up grade to a new model that will do the same thing. (use the money to urgrade your alternator) Bottom paint is a optopn as there are some many type on the market some dealer will put it in the package while other may not, suggest you use a good guality multi-season ablative paint (at least two if not three coats) Good Luck on your new boat purchase!
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Bryan C.
Charging electrical systems
A 30 amp alternator is probably not sufficient. The answer is a little complicated, depending upon your electrical usage, your battery bank size, and whether you have alternative charging sources. If you are talking about week long cruises, its worth studying a book on DC electrical systems ((Nigel Calder's book: "Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical Manual" is good on the topic) so you can properly determine your equipment needs and just as importantly, manage your system. You can kill even rugged, expensive, deep cycle battery pretty quickly if you don't manage your system properly. If you are talking about minimal electrical usage -- no fridge, no fans running all night, minimal usage of lights -- a 30 amp would probably do. If you're talking about all the fun electrical gear everyone loads up on these days, you'll be running your engine all day to fully recharge. If you run a fridge, lights and fans, you can easy burn 100 amp hours a day. You're going to need a big battery bank (~400 amp/hours), a strong alternator (~100 amp) and a "smart" multistep voltage regulator to efficiently manage your electrical system. And even then you're talking about a couple hours a day on the charger.
A 30 amp alternator is probably not sufficient. The answer is a little complicated, depending upon your electrical usage, your battery bank size, and whether you have alternative charging sources. If you are talking about week long cruises, its worth studying a book on DC electrical systems ((Nigel Calder's book: "Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical Manual" is good on the topic) so you can properly determine your equipment needs and just as importantly, manage your system. You can kill even rugged, expensive, deep cycle battery pretty quickly if you don't manage your system properly. If you are talking about minimal electrical usage -- no fridge, no fans running all night, minimal usage of lights -- a 30 amp would probably do. If you're talking about all the fun electrical gear everyone loads up on these days, you'll be running your engine all day to fully recharge. If you run a fridge, lights and fans, you can easy burn 100 amp hours a day. You're going to need a big battery bank (~400 amp/hours), a strong alternator (~100 amp) and a "smart" multistep voltage regulator to efficiently manage your electrical system. And even then you're talking about a couple hours a day on the charger.
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Gary Baggett
Bilge Water
Bill, The packing gland drips several "drops" of water per minute which is normal. Thats where the water is probably coming from. When the water reaches a certain level, the auto bilge pump kicks in. A half inch is normal. The float switch has malfunctioned on my H290 a few times preventing the water from being pumped out. I understand that an "upgraded" switch is recommended. Gary
Bill, The packing gland drips several "drops" of water per minute which is normal. Thats where the water is probably coming from. When the water reaches a certain level, the auto bilge pump kicks in. A half inch is normal. The float switch has malfunctioned on my H290 a few times preventing the water from being pumped out. I understand that an "upgraded" switch is recommended. Gary
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Greg G.
Not sure on the 30 amp, but...
I can tell you that I upgraded my 320 to the ST-60 instruments. These have the SeaTalk interface which you will want and/or need if you add things like GPS, charplotters and radar systems. This allows them to "talk" to each other. I don't think the ST-30's have this interface. Additonally, they have MUCH larger displays. You will always have just a bit of water in the bilge below where the pump pickup is. You should make sure that all the bilge areas feed to this one section free and clear and that the pump works. This should be done by throwing some water in there and not just flipping the switch and listening. Have fun, I just got my 320 and love it!
I can tell you that I upgraded my 320 to the ST-60 instruments. These have the SeaTalk interface which you will want and/or need if you add things like GPS, charplotters and radar systems. This allows them to "talk" to each other. I don't think the ST-30's have this interface. Additonally, they have MUCH larger displays. You will always have just a bit of water in the bilge below where the pump pickup is. You should make sure that all the bilge areas feed to this one section free and clear and that the pump works. This should be done by throwing some water in there and not just flipping the switch and listening. Have fun, I just got my 320 and love it!
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Alex
imilar electric package..
..on my 29.5 .I have a 240 amp/hour deep-cycle for house batt, charged thru multi-stage charger , and digital monitor (am,amp-hour,Volt.Amp). For large house batteries -at least 200amp/hour-, I would strongly recomand a multi stage charger and not the one standardly supplied.I would recomend the 4 stage charger , which has a scheduled periodical discharce function 'stage',very important for long-life mentenance ,along with the 3 standard 'multi-stage' ones. Anyway , it isn't real to ask for a week ussage from one time charge, if you use fridge , radio tape player, lights ,etc.; one day (70-80 amp/hour)is more close to reality.. In order to charge them at sea by engine , you need a larger output alternator ,or/and a smart regulator , and still need to use the engine a couple of hours a day.. My batteries work now for almost 6 years ,and are still fine. Just keep monitoring their situation.
..on my 29.5 .I have a 240 amp/hour deep-cycle for house batt, charged thru multi-stage charger , and digital monitor (am,amp-hour,Volt.Amp). For large house batteries -at least 200amp/hour-, I would strongly recomand a multi stage charger and not the one standardly supplied.I would recomend the 4 stage charger , which has a scheduled periodical discharce function 'stage',very important for long-life mentenance ,along with the 3 standard 'multi-stage' ones. Anyway , it isn't real to ask for a week ussage from one time charge, if you use fridge , radio tape player, lights ,etc.; one day (70-80 amp/hour)is more close to reality.. In order to charge them at sea by engine , you need a larger output alternator ,or/and a smart regulator , and still need to use the engine a couple of hours a day.. My batteries work now for almost 6 years ,and are still fine. Just keep monitoring their situation.
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Dakota Jim Russell
Bilge Water Optional
While the packing glan will drip, one can use a dripless packing and get rid of that water. Next is the water that drips from the ice box drain. That can be elimiated by a self contained bilge box and pump accepting that water, and the shower water at the same time. But you will need to caulk the top of the bilge box to avoid it leaking. Now you should be dry, but the the mast might leak if the dealer didn't caulk the wire tube appropriately <grin>. And ofcourse if there is some stupid bolt that decides to leak . . . . I have a dry bilge, but it takes work. The advantage is that it doesn't smell.
While the packing glan will drip, one can use a dripless packing and get rid of that water. Next is the water that drips from the ice box drain. That can be elimiated by a self contained bilge box and pump accepting that water, and the shower water at the same time. But you will need to caulk the top of the bilge box to avoid it leaking. Now you should be dry, but the the mast might leak if the dealer didn't caulk the wire tube appropriately <grin>. And ofcourse if there is some stupid bolt that decides to leak . . . . I have a dry bilge, but it takes work. The advantage is that it doesn't smell.
Lotsa options.
Bill: I agree that the 30 amp alternator is a little on the weak side. But as everyone has said, it depends on the drain. Cassette tape players, interior lighting are big drains, now add that refridgeration system and we are talking hugh drain. Yanmar has a 70-80 amp Hitachi unit that will bolt right in place of the standard unit. You can get on of these from the Yanmar distributors for about $300 if you order a rebuilt unit (understand that they are really new units?). There is also a fellow in FL. that sell a Delco unit that will bolt right up and you only need to replace a single wire for about $200 (think that this is Marathon Diesel). Cannot comment on the Autohelm units, but you may want to check the archives for clues to how good or bad these system tend to be. As far as your anchor package goes, you need to know what type of bottom and the depths you will be anchoring in. There in no single anchor that is great in all bottoms. What I can tell you is that the danforth "type" anchors do not work in grass or weed bottoms. If you are in sand or mud the danforths are very good. This is also something you should check in the archives and check with some of the locals in your area to see what works for them. West Marine has a guide to anchor packages in their catalog, check it out for ideas. I suggest at least 2 anchors and make them different types. Be sure that the bottom has a barrier coat. I do not think that Hunter ever paints the bottoms. Bottom paint is like the anchors, you need to use something that works for your environment. We have started using one of the newer slime reduction paints and the bottom is much easier to keep clean, but we are in fresh, brackish and salt water during the sailing season.
Bill: I agree that the 30 amp alternator is a little on the weak side. But as everyone has said, it depends on the drain. Cassette tape players, interior lighting are big drains, now add that refridgeration system and we are talking hugh drain. Yanmar has a 70-80 amp Hitachi unit that will bolt right in place of the standard unit. You can get on of these from the Yanmar distributors for about $300 if you order a rebuilt unit (understand that they are really new units?). There is also a fellow in FL. that sell a Delco unit that will bolt right up and you only need to replace a single wire for about $200 (think that this is Marathon Diesel). Cannot comment on the Autohelm units, but you may want to check the archives for clues to how good or bad these system tend to be. As far as your anchor package goes, you need to know what type of bottom and the depths you will be anchoring in. There in no single anchor that is great in all bottoms. What I can tell you is that the danforth "type" anchors do not work in grass or weed bottoms. If you are in sand or mud the danforths are very good. This is also something you should check in the archives and check with some of the locals in your area to see what works for them. West Marine has a guide to anchor packages in their catalog, check it out for ideas. I suggest at least 2 anchors and make them different types. Be sure that the bottom has a barrier coat. I do not think that Hunter ever paints the bottoms. Bottom paint is like the anchors, you need to use something that works for your environment. We have started using one of the newer slime reduction paints and the bottom is much easier to keep clean, but we are in fresh, brackish and salt water during the sailing season.
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