I recently changed the engine and transmission oil in my Yanmar 3GMF with a Mobil Oil diesel grade product. I have to admit that I don't really understand very well the numbers that are associated with the grade of oil. I used a 5W-40 grade for use in the Chesapeake Bay region. A few questions for the more knowledgeable; Will this hurt my engine? Do I need a different grade? What exactly do those numbers, 5W-40, refer to? Thanks in advance, Joe Mullee
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I think it is suppose to be 30wt or 15w-40
Joe: I think that the oil is suppose to be 30wt or 15W-40. I doubt you will do any damage with the 5w-40. You may want to purchase a Yanmar service manual for future reference. I believe that the transmission also calls for 30wt.
Joe: I think that the oil is suppose to be 30wt or 15W-40. I doubt you will do any damage with the 5w-40. You may want to purchase a Yanmar service manual for future reference. I believe that the transmission also calls for 30wt.
!5w 40w
I would change as soon as possible,the 5W is too light for diesel engine and could start pas bt the rings and get burnt in with the fuel. I am know expert but diesels need heaver weight oil than gas engine. I would change it before using again,yanmar recommends 15w40w in the newer engines and 30w in older ones. Lets hear from the experts. Nick
I would change as soon as possible,the 5W is too light for diesel engine and could start pas bt the rings and get burnt in with the fuel. I am know expert but diesels need heaver weight oil than gas engine. I would change it before using again,yanmar recommends 15w40w in the newer engines and 30w in older ones. Lets hear from the experts. Nick
Synthetic?
Joe, you did not say but my guess is you've picked up Mobil One synthetic 5W40 which far EXCEEDS the API classification called for by Yanmar. There are reasons the engineered synthetics are more expensive than petroleum based products not the least of which is that they are a superior product. I've used synthetics for decades in more applications than I can remember with great results. I think you will be pleased with the benefits. Nick, 5W40 is only 'light' initially when most of the wear occurs so that it will pump/lubricate more quickly than a straight weight. It is a recommendation from most major engine manufacturers from Detroit to Tokyo.
Joe, you did not say but my guess is you've picked up Mobil One synthetic 5W40 which far EXCEEDS the API classification called for by Yanmar. There are reasons the engineered synthetics are more expensive than petroleum based products not the least of which is that they are a superior product. I've used synthetics for decades in more applications than I can remember with great results. I think you will be pleased with the benefits. Nick, 5W40 is only 'light' initially when most of the wear occurs so that it will pump/lubricate more quickly than a straight weight. It is a recommendation from most major engine manufacturers from Detroit to Tokyo.
Oil decoded
Mineral spirits are distiled from crude oil and come in a verity of flavors. One of which is oil for internal combustion engines. This comes in a verity of packages all of which are special additives to help out for specific engine needs. A diesel engine needs more detergent in it then an spark ignition engine due to the higher compression and the resulting greater piston ring blow by. Blowby ends up in the oil and causes sludge. The higher detergent levels help keep the sludge suspended so it does not get deposited on engine surfaces. The "weight" of an oil is expressed as ??W-?? (10W-30, 5W-50....). The first number is the viscosity rating at 32 degrees F and the second is the viscosity rating at 200 deg F. Lower numbers indicate less viscosity. The numbers for engine oil vary from 5 to 50 so a 5W-40 is very "runny" at cold temps and thickens up to slightly less than normal "runnyness" (30 is normal) when the engine warms up. You would normally need a 5W-xx oil for starting in cold weather below 32 deg F. and a xW-50 for an engine that is ether operating under heavy loads or operates in an environment that is hotter than normal. So if you are considering becoming a polar bear or penguin you would want 5W-30 and if you where going to consider the shellback badge then a 10W-50 would be in order. For the bay you could run straight 10W-30 weight. As for synthetics, well lets give credit where credit is due, they have an truly gargantuan capacity to store sludge in suspension. Other than that I can't see the benefit. I change the oil and filter yearly so there is not that much sludge to suspend but if you don't like changing oil, synthetics are the way to go. They do have one significant draw back that rules them out for my motor. No extreme pressure capability. They cool the hot parts great and suspend sludge great but they are not the best lubricant you can buy. The bearings need a lubricant that can "stand up" and not get squeezed out when the engine is operating. Mineral spirits work better and for the money are a better bargain. Which is why I believe you don't see NASCAR using them a lot.
Mineral spirits are distiled from crude oil and come in a verity of flavors. One of which is oil for internal combustion engines. This comes in a verity of packages all of which are special additives to help out for specific engine needs. A diesel engine needs more detergent in it then an spark ignition engine due to the higher compression and the resulting greater piston ring blow by. Blowby ends up in the oil and causes sludge. The higher detergent levels help keep the sludge suspended so it does not get deposited on engine surfaces. The "weight" of an oil is expressed as ??W-?? (10W-30, 5W-50....). The first number is the viscosity rating at 32 degrees F and the second is the viscosity rating at 200 deg F. Lower numbers indicate less viscosity. The numbers for engine oil vary from 5 to 50 so a 5W-40 is very "runny" at cold temps and thickens up to slightly less than normal "runnyness" (30 is normal) when the engine warms up. You would normally need a 5W-xx oil for starting in cold weather below 32 deg F. and a xW-50 for an engine that is ether operating under heavy loads or operates in an environment that is hotter than normal. So if you are considering becoming a polar bear or penguin you would want 5W-30 and if you where going to consider the shellback badge then a 10W-50 would be in order. For the bay you could run straight 10W-30 weight. As for synthetics, well lets give credit where credit is due, they have an truly gargantuan capacity to store sludge in suspension. Other than that I can't see the benefit. I change the oil and filter yearly so there is not that much sludge to suspend but if you don't like changing oil, synthetics are the way to go. They do have one significant draw back that rules them out for my motor. No extreme pressure capability. They cool the hot parts great and suspend sludge great but they are not the best lubricant you can buy. The bearings need a lubricant that can "stand up" and not get squeezed out when the engine is operating. Mineral spirits work better and for the money are a better bargain. Which is why I believe you don't see NASCAR using them a lot.
More Oil 101
Common API testsconducted on motor oils> The Thin-Film Oxygen Uptake test (TFOUT) measures the oxygen stability of engine oils. The High Temperature/High Shear Test (HTHS) measures a lubricants viscosity under severe operating conditions. The NOACK Volatility Test measures the evaporation loss of oils in high temperature service. Pour Point indicates the lowest temperature at which a fluid will flow. Total Base Number (TBN) is the measurement of a lubricants reserve alkalinity for combating acids. The Cold Crank Simulator Test (CCS) measures a lubricants viscosity at low temperatures and high shear rates. The Four Ball Test measures a lubricants wear protection properties. Top line synthetics outperform petroleum based lubricants in all of the aforementioned tests.
Common API testsconducted on motor oils> The Thin-Film Oxygen Uptake test (TFOUT) measures the oxygen stability of engine oils. The High Temperature/High Shear Test (HTHS) measures a lubricants viscosity under severe operating conditions. The NOACK Volatility Test measures the evaporation loss of oils in high temperature service. Pour Point indicates the lowest temperature at which a fluid will flow. Total Base Number (TBN) is the measurement of a lubricants reserve alkalinity for combating acids. The Cold Crank Simulator Test (CCS) measures a lubricants viscosity at low temperatures and high shear rates. The Four Ball Test measures a lubricants wear protection properties. Top line synthetics outperform petroleum based lubricants in all of the aforementioned tests.
Well,
Bill, you and MKing must be petroleum engineers or something pretty close. You guys have my (our) respect. For the more uninformed amoung us, I would like to pass along that if you buy a new boat w/ a Yanmar engine, Yanmar claims the right to void your engine warrentee if you do not use their Yanmar recommended diesel oil, and change the oil and filter per their recommendations. If you have a warrentee issue, they can and will take and analize an oil sample. So, even though a quart of Yanmar oil may be (maybe) a dollar more than (say) Rotilla, I (and I think most owners of newer boats w/ Yanmar engines) continue to use Yanmar oil even long after their warrentee periods are long past.
Bill, you and MKing must be petroleum engineers or something pretty close. You guys have my (our) respect. For the more uninformed amoung us, I would like to pass along that if you buy a new boat w/ a Yanmar engine, Yanmar claims the right to void your engine warrentee if you do not use their Yanmar recommended diesel oil, and change the oil and filter per their recommendations. If you have a warrentee issue, they can and will take and analize an oil sample. So, even though a quart of Yanmar oil may be (maybe) a dollar more than (say) Rotilla, I (and I think most owners of newer boats w/ Yanmar engines) continue to use Yanmar oil even long after their warrentee periods are long past.
I Totally agree Buck
Course I have never, and don't plan to, bought a new boat so the point is moot for me. I was only pointing out that all the advantages of synthetics are outweighed by the fact that you change your oil a lot in a boat and can't really get your $$$ out of it. Synthetics are great in police cars and such where you can put a lot of miles on an engine in a short time and make up the extra expense by not changing the oil so often. But on a boat it just does not make sense. Course if I did own a new boat with a Yanmar and it did break, I'd be changing the oil and filter BEFORE I called the dealer. Call me a shyster if you will but I know there are only a few oil and filter manufacturers and lots of oil and filter sales companies with fancy paint and packaging departments. I'd bet money that if you carefully scrape off the paint on a Yanmar filter it is orange paint underneath and it says "Made in China for FRAM, YANMAR, FORD, GM...."
Course I have never, and don't plan to, bought a new boat so the point is moot for me. I was only pointing out that all the advantages of synthetics are outweighed by the fact that you change your oil a lot in a boat and can't really get your $$$ out of it. Synthetics are great in police cars and such where you can put a lot of miles on an engine in a short time and make up the extra expense by not changing the oil so often. But on a boat it just does not make sense. Course if I did own a new boat with a Yanmar and it did break, I'd be changing the oil and filter BEFORE I called the dealer. Call me a shyster if you will but I know there are only a few oil and filter manufacturers and lots of oil and filter sales companies with fancy paint and packaging departments. I'd bet money that if you carefully scrape off the paint on a Yanmar filter it is orange paint underneath and it says "Made in China for FRAM, YANMAR, FORD, GM...."
And I Totally Agree With You, Bill
Yanmar builds engines... they don't refine oil or (to the best of my knowledge) make fuel and oil filters. So, someone else makes these products for them and puts the Yanmar label on them... think dozens of brands of different dog food that come from the same dog food plant; Hummmmm.... I was told by Hunter dealer service that Yanmar has their branded oil made to their specifications. It can therefore be destinguished when analyzed from other CD oils... Does that make it worth the extra $ ? I donno ... I do wonder who makes their filters and if they are the same as ?? .
Yanmar builds engines... they don't refine oil or (to the best of my knowledge) make fuel and oil filters. So, someone else makes these products for them and puts the Yanmar label on them... think dozens of brands of different dog food that come from the same dog food plant; Hummmmm.... I was told by Hunter dealer service that Yanmar has their branded oil made to their specifications. It can therefore be destinguished when analyzed from other CD oils... Does that make it worth the extra $ ? I donno ... I do wonder who makes their filters and if they are the same as ?? .
Buck, I don't think it's legal for Yanmar to deny
a warranty based on 'Brand'. If they can prove the oil used in a failed engine was not up to their specifications then yes. That's why we have ratings like API. Just keep your receipt.
a warranty based on 'Brand'. If they can prove the oil used in a failed engine was not up to their specifications then yes. That's why we have ratings like API. Just keep your receipt.
I Don't Know, Fred,
that's what I was told by Norton Yacht Sales when they commissioned my boat 7 years ago.... Maybe it's BS, but if they write up the warranty that way, and you sign off on it when you take delivery, I suspect you'd have a tough time with them if you didn't honor it. I think the engine warranty was only for 2 years... so it would be kinda dumb not to humor them... considering that all of their oil and filters over those 2 years maybe total $20-30 more than other brands. Anyway, after 7 years, 2000 engine hours, and about 20 oil/filter changes; my 4JH2 is still running great... ( I have used Rotella a couple of times in the past few years when I couldn't get the Yanmar stuff, but the engine told me I was a pig for doing it).
that's what I was told by Norton Yacht Sales when they commissioned my boat 7 years ago.... Maybe it's BS, but if they write up the warranty that way, and you sign off on it when you take delivery, I suspect you'd have a tough time with them if you didn't honor it. I think the engine warranty was only for 2 years... so it would be kinda dumb not to humor them... considering that all of their oil and filters over those 2 years maybe total $20-30 more than other brands. Anyway, after 7 years, 2000 engine hours, and about 20 oil/filter changes; my 4JH2 is still running great... ( I have used Rotella a couple of times in the past few years when I couldn't get the Yanmar stuff, but the engine told me I was a pig for doing it).
Hay Terry,
What # Napa oil filter do you use on your 4JH2 ? I've been buying Yanmar filters, but if the Napa (which may be the same filter, as Fred says, just paianted differently) is less expensive I think I'll use it. Thanks... Buck
What # Napa oil filter do you use on your 4JH2 ? I've been buying Yanmar filters, but if the Napa (which may be the same filter, as Fred says, just paianted differently) is less expensive I think I'll use it. Thanks... Buck
Hi Buck, be glad to get the number for you,...
but it will be this weekend before I drive to the boat again. Just came back from getting it ready for the season. Wished I would have known. I think I pay around $7.00 for the filter, which if I remember right is half the price of a Yanmar brand. It would not surprise me if they were identical, but just a different brand. Hopefully, I will not forget..it seems the older I get...well you get the drift. Terry
but it will be this weekend before I drive to the boat again. Just came back from getting it ready for the season. Wished I would have known. I think I pay around $7.00 for the filter, which if I remember right is half the price of a Yanmar brand. It would not surprise me if they were identical, but just a different brand. Hopefully, I will not forget..it seems the older I get...well you get the drift. Terry
Motor Oil
Joe: The Yanmar manual (see link)recommends 15W40 oil for the engine and 30W for the transmission. I use 30W for both in my 2GM20F in order to avoid having oils of two different viscosities aboard. The 30W oil is good for a temp range of 32 deg F to 104 deg F. I won't be using the boat if the temps exceed either of those ranges. While I am no expert on this, I do tend to agree that the 5w40 is a bit light (particularly since we may be using your engine a bit on the upcoming trip....)
Joe: The Yanmar manual (see link)recommends 15W40 oil for the engine and 30W for the transmission. I use 30W for both in my 2GM20F in order to avoid having oils of two different viscosities aboard. The 30W oil is good for a temp range of 32 deg F to 104 deg F. I won't be using the boat if the temps exceed either of those ranges. While I am no expert on this, I do tend to agree that the 5w40 is a bit light (particularly since we may be using your engine a bit on the upcoming trip....)
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