Iron Swing Keel Maintenance: A cautionary tale

Sep 18, 2022
102
Macgregor 25 Cincinnati
Cliff notes, you -must- take it out and blast it at some point. You may be shocked at how little iron you find. I cannot emphasize enough how important it could be to your safety, especially on cheap old boats like Macgregors.

My Mac 25 was an ocean boat most of its life, and its keel looked uglier than most in the midwest. I got a lot of advice in prepping to remove it, for which I am grateful.

But.

I also ran into the “nah it’s normal” trope from many people, INCLUDING the folks at Strictly Sail Inc when I was trying to pay them to do it. “We don’t take keels out, we just hoist the boat, sand what sticks out and paint it. It’s all you really need, they’re iron and they’re going to rust anyways.”

Well I didn't listen, I built my own hoist and did the job myself. The rust line on the keel made it look as though it had never even been lowered for paint, instead being painted in the retracted position, on the trailer. In the photos you can see that even the halfazz job of slapping paint on what was exposed made a HUGE difference in the life of the iron.

The unpainted iron is deeply pockmarked and pitted, the keel bolt was only hanging on by a 3/8” x 1/2” thick ribbon of iron! The painted stuff still has a cast finish, with mild pitting only in places where it contacted things like the hull or trailer.

That little ribbon of iron was not long for this world, perhaps only a few years from succumbing to the 650lb weight of the keel a tearing out.

The simplest way for your boat yard to do this is likely to block/clamp the keel to the trailer, remove its hardware, and hoist the boat up and off (and put it on the hard, don’t camp out on the hoi$t). Wheel the trailer into the blasting booth and blast what you can reach (protect your trailer!), then immediately clean it with acetone and coat it with something like POR-15. In 6 hours you can then paint over that, either adding more barrier layers or going straight to bottom paint if the yard wants you out. Set the boat back down on the keel/trailer and reattach it. The bits of keel hidden by the trailer will now be exposed when you hoist the boat back up to do the normal bottom paint work-scope. I’m planning to do this extra step every 5~10 years.
 

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Sep 18, 2022
102
Macgregor 25 Cincinnati
@HeelBoy
How did you repair the pivot hole?
Future tense, how will I?
I have a plan for cutting away the bad metal and threading into some good "meat" with 4 bolts. My current hang up is choosing the material for the bolts, to minimize galvanic corrosion.
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,377
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
This might be a helpful read...

.

I have used local welders for several boat realted jobs in the past (not on the keel though). I have always been surprised at how affordable it is. You would probably need to build a cradle on wheels so the welder could move it around.... But if you could add some meat back to that area....

Something like this... cut out the bad area and weld in a piece of iron. I'd then fill in the pock marks with JB weld marine grade and then barrier coat. I think I'd also add a bushing for the pivot hole made of SS. Your pivot pin is SS so you would not be adding any new dissimilar metal issues. If the pivot hole and bushing are isolated with some JB weld and a coat of barrier paint, I think you would eliminate most (if not all) of the galvanic issues.

1669820744622.png
 
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Sep 18, 2022
102
Macgregor 25 Cincinnati
Something like this... cut out the bad area and weld in a piece of iron...
I'll bounce that idea off the weld engineers here at work. I have a mechanical-connection bias because that's what kind of engineer I am. lol

I'm worried about the strength and longevity of the weld, based on how much garbage is in the base metal, and irons' tendency to get brittle. Attached is the rendering of my repair. Plan to use 4140 steel, with everything coated and potted in POR-15 to isolate things. Each bolt is good for 1400lb, I want to spread the thread load so this thing can age a while before yield values become an issue.
 

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Jan 19, 2010
12,377
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
That looks like a viable approach. A concern I have is that the bolts going into the meat of the metal would be supporting 650 pounds of the keel when it is in the up position. Any corrosion between the bolt and the meat could lead to the bolt backing out. What if you extended the sleeve a little past the cut out and over some solid areas of the keel... and added two vertical through bolts that went completely through the keel.... like this...

1669826660738.png


This would only fail if the keel rused all the way through the spine or if the bolt failed.
 
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Sep 18, 2022
102
Macgregor 25 Cincinnati
.... like this...
I had the exact same concern, and fiddled with some ideas along the same lines as your suggestion. Grinding down to find enough meat for this kind of interface requires a more precise removal of metal, to maintain uniform thickness for that interface. The "web" you end up with for thru-bolting is only an inch wide, so I'd need to go down 2 more inches to give a healthy enough amount of material to retain things. The notch I can hog out with a grinder and clean up with a rasp/file.

The math for the four bolts works out to have a lot of overkill. Each 3/8-16 bolt can resist ~1400 pounds of pull-out force (2400 if I go up to 1/2"-13). Add to that the fact that the keel pivot hold half the weight (or less) of the keel in the up potion, and that's a lot of overkill. In the down potion, it's predominantly a shear force, with the steel brick being blocked in that direction. Retention can be enhanced by cross drilling and thru-pinning the bolts.

Right now my big rework hurdle is settling on a material for the bolts. Something that won't treat the iron like an anode... I should probably add a Zinc while I'm at it.
 
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Jan 19, 2010
12,377
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
I should probably add a Zinc while I'm at it.
That makes sense... you don't want to drop the keel to replace the zinc... you could probably crimp a zink onto the lifting cable???? Or bolt one onto the trailing edge of the keel.
 
Sep 18, 2022
102
Macgregor 25 Cincinnati
That makes sense... you don't want to drop the keel to replace the zinc... you could probably crimp a zink onto the lifting cable???? Or bolt one onto the trailing edge of the keel.
Was leaning towards bolting it to the leading edge, where the keel rests on the trailer cradle. Make it do double duty.
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,095
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
Great post and warning.

If you search the Catalina 22 sub forum there are a couple threads on full refurb of their cast iron swing keels.

After blasting the rust away, they ended up with big voids and having to repair the pivot pin hole. Fairly typical stuff on a saltwater boat with a iron swing keel I expect.

Looking at the C22 keels I would seriously doubt they looked great when new. They reminded my of doing sand casting as kid.
Apparently they just slapped goop on them to cover the casting flaws.


Any yard worth their salt, should know they need to serviced. Especially if they have never been redone and fully encapulated in something like epoxy.

Fwiw: For those that haven't used por15, nothing likes to stick to it unless you sand it. If you put another coating/primer on it, before it fully cures, it makes life easier.
 
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Sep 18, 2022
102
Macgregor 25 Cincinnati
Fwiw: For those that haven't used por15, nothing likes to stick to it unless you sand it. If you put another coating/primer on it, before it fully cures, it makes life easier.
Oh.... crap lol
I have lightweight (100psi) blasting ability, maybe I could lightly blast it with some baking soda or walnut shell? The surface is highly irregular, not great for sanding.
I also saw that POR has some kit for this, some solution etc for prep.

The keel pivot bolt is 316ss, so there was definitely some anodic exchange going on.
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,095
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
I also saw that POR has some kit for this, some solution etc for prep
The normal solution in automotive restoration is to put a primer or different coating on top, before it fully cures and the Por15 is soft

For automotive frames, they sell a topcoat for that purpose, which also protects the Por15 from UV light, which will hurt it.

I would contact the mfg and tell them your planned use.
 
Sep 18, 2022
102
Macgregor 25 Cincinnati
Yeah I coated it in POR Tuesday, in a rush to beat any humidity-cause rust.
Sooo I missed the tacky window by quite a lot. lol
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,065
-na -NA Anywhere USA
If any ingredient says zinc chromate in a primer to prevent rust, consider that primer. It was the best primer I used called Zinc Chromate