Has anyone had any major problems with the iron keels on the Hunters? I was told to stay away from iron keels. I realize lead is better, but is iron really that bad?
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They need to be treated but they are fine.
Don: They need to be treated periodically (cleaned and sealed) and then painted. You will hear many nay sayers complain about them but many other mfg. have use the too. Interlux has a procedure posted on their website on the products and procedure to treat the cast iron.
Don: They need to be treated periodically (cleaned and sealed) and then painted. You will hear many nay sayers complain about them but many other mfg. have use the too. Interlux has a procedure posted on their website on the products and procedure to treat the cast iron.
Iron Keel Treatment
I thought it might be helpful to share with you all how I've dealt with the infamous iron keel on my 1986 Hunter 28.5. When I bought my boat in 2003, it was 100 miles from my home port and I had limited time to do any real maintenance prior to sailing the boat home. The keel was not really in bad shape,i.e., it had a number of spots where rust was bleeding through the old bottom paint. I ground and spot sanded these areas and used some Petit "RustLok" zinc chromate paint on them prior to bottom painting. After a season in the water, the keel had held up fairly well, but I was not really satisfied with it. I sanded it down as best I could and applied a product call "POR-15" which had been recommended by a friend in the autobody business. The url is: http://www.stoprust.net/POR15_Info/POR15_Paints.htm. This stuff is great as it chemically bonds with the metal and prevents any new rust formation. When my boat was hauled a month ago, it had no rust at all on the keel. All I need now is for April 1st to roll around!
I thought it might be helpful to share with you all how I've dealt with the infamous iron keel on my 1986 Hunter 28.5. When I bought my boat in 2003, it was 100 miles from my home port and I had limited time to do any real maintenance prior to sailing the boat home. The keel was not really in bad shape,i.e., it had a number of spots where rust was bleeding through the old bottom paint. I ground and spot sanded these areas and used some Petit "RustLok" zinc chromate paint on them prior to bottom painting. After a season in the water, the keel had held up fairly well, but I was not really satisfied with it. I sanded it down as best I could and applied a product call "POR-15" which had been recommended by a friend in the autobody business. The url is: http://www.stoprust.net/POR15_Info/POR15_Paints.htm. This stuff is great as it chemically bonds with the metal and prevents any new rust formation. When my boat was hauled a month ago, it had no rust at all on the keel. All I need now is for April 1st to roll around!
ED
I had one for years and it had some good attributes. I grounded the boat and it rode for several hours in waves picking up the boat and droping it on a rock bottom. almost no damage. paint was scraped off and a few little marks. but i towed it off and went on sailing, after inspection. much more resistant to grounding than fiberglass. on the other hand. in florida and in salt it require strippin it down evey 2 to 3 years. then i treated the metal with an acid solution and painted it with petet metal primer, then a vinal sealer that was very think ruber like finish. sealing up the metal completly. then painted the bottom paint. That boat is still doing fine after 30 years.
I had one for years and it had some good attributes. I grounded the boat and it rode for several hours in waves picking up the boat and droping it on a rock bottom. almost no damage. paint was scraped off and a few little marks. but i towed it off and went on sailing, after inspection. much more resistant to grounding than fiberglass. on the other hand. in florida and in salt it require strippin it down evey 2 to 3 years. then i treated the metal with an acid solution and painted it with petet metal primer, then a vinal sealer that was very think ruber like finish. sealing up the metal completly. then painted the bottom paint. That boat is still doing fine after 30 years.
Still not getting it
I posted this same response recently to a similar question about refinishing on another site. When I first got my '85 H34, I decided to grind the iron keel down to bare metal. After an hour of that I asked the marina guy to sandblast it. When he declined and I asked him why, he said," because you're stupid! That keel is going to last longer than your boat, longer than you, and no one can see what it looks like once it's in the water". I should also note that when grinding I ran into fairing material, a substance similar to body filler used to smooth the surface. If you remove that you'll have to replace it. Also, once you get to bare metal at one end of the keel the bare metal at the other end of the keel has already begun to corrode from humidity. And, if you can't get to every part of the keel as Steve pointed out, what is the point? My experience was about 5 years ago and since then I knock the loose paint off the keel every spring and paint it with the rest of the bottom. Sometimes, when confronted with a challenging task the best thing to do is have another beer.
I posted this same response recently to a similar question about refinishing on another site. When I first got my '85 H34, I decided to grind the iron keel down to bare metal. After an hour of that I asked the marina guy to sandblast it. When he declined and I asked him why, he said," because you're stupid! That keel is going to last longer than your boat, longer than you, and no one can see what it looks like once it's in the water". I should also note that when grinding I ran into fairing material, a substance similar to body filler used to smooth the surface. If you remove that you'll have to replace it. Also, once you get to bare metal at one end of the keel the bare metal at the other end of the keel has already begun to corrode from humidity. And, if you can't get to every part of the keel as Steve pointed out, what is the point? My experience was about 5 years ago and since then I knock the loose paint off the keel every spring and paint it with the rest of the bottom. Sometimes, when confronted with a challenging task the best thing to do is have another beer.
I agree with Mike
I had a Cheoy Lee Clipper with an iron shoe keel. The thing is indestructable from my experience of 25 years with it. Just sand and seal with maybe west epoxy any spot that appear to rust. Never an issue with this boat and no real coating over the thing except what came from the factory. I guess bottom paint protects the thing? Maybe just using it often in the secret.
I had a Cheoy Lee Clipper with an iron shoe keel. The thing is indestructable from my experience of 25 years with it. Just sand and seal with maybe west epoxy any spot that appear to rust. Never an issue with this boat and no real coating over the thing except what came from the factory. I guess bottom paint protects the thing? Maybe just using it often in the secret.
82 Hunter 27 has a lead keel
Don, your 1982 Hunter 27 has a lead keel, as do all the 27 to 37 foot Cherubini Hunters. So put away the rust treatments. Dan Sheehan
Don, your 1982 Hunter 27 has a lead keel, as do all the 27 to 37 foot Cherubini Hunters. So put away the rust treatments. Dan Sheehan
Thanks for the info!
Thanks for all the good info guys! I know my 1982 Hunter has a lead keel. I'm currently looking at the newer Hunters. That's why I had the question about the steel keels. Sounds like no big deal. Thanks again, Don
Thanks for all the good info guys! I know my 1982 Hunter has a lead keel. I'm currently looking at the newer Hunters. That's why I had the question about the steel keels. Sounds like no big deal. Thanks again, Don
Hunter Keels
Don, I believe all of the "newer" Hunters have lead keels,certainly since the early 90's
Don, I believe all of the "newer" Hunters have lead keels,certainly since the early 90's
Rust never sleeps
It's mostly cosmetic but folks spend a lot of time and money fixing rusty keels. Chemicals delay the rust but .... Boats with iron keels (some Hunters and Beneslows) are cheaper than better made vessels but most folks can't tell when they are floating
It's mostly cosmetic but folks spend a lot of time and money fixing rusty keels. Chemicals delay the rust but .... Boats with iron keels (some Hunters and Beneslows) are cheaper than better made vessels but most folks can't tell when they are floating
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