Just hauled the boat to clean and paint the bottom. The iron keel is rusty and pitted. When I asked the yard what to do they suggested sand blasting and then smoothing out the keel with some type of compound, the name of which I don't recall right now. Their estimate was $1800-2000. Whew!! I remember reading some posts about iron keels where some of the owners basically suggested to just scrape them down as best you can, fair up any really bad spots, paint them, and forget them. The idea was that a 5000 lb iron keel will outlast any of our lifetimes, rust or no rust. What type of compound should I use to fair it up? Any other suggestions are welcome. Thanks, Joe Mullee
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Keel Rust
"They" may be absolutely correct that a rusted iron or steel keel will outlast us but nevertheless I perfer to attend to it. You can grind or sand out the rust. If it's possible for you to sand blast the entire keel then I would. Once you have completed that job, apply a product by Interlux called Interprotect 2000E. Follow the directions and your problem wiii be non existent. Have just doen this myself and it worked out very good.
"They" may be absolutely correct that a rusted iron or steel keel will outlast us but nevertheless I perfer to attend to it. You can grind or sand out the rust. If it's possible for you to sand blast the entire keel then I would. Once you have completed that job, apply a product by Interlux called Interprotect 2000E. Follow the directions and your problem wiii be non existent. Have just doen this myself and it worked out very good.
Rust Answers
Your actions depend on how serious you are about making the rust go away. If you grind it and coat it with epoxy or chemicals you will slow down the rust. You can plan on doing that each time you haul it. If you sand blast it and coat it with epoxy within one hour there's a much better chance you won't be dealing with it for many years. Petit RustLox doesn't work, VC Tar barrier coat doesn't work, Interlux 2000 will seal up the rust that is in the pits you can't grind away. Rust never sleeps. Be prepared for an annual grinding mess of fix it right. Either way it won't effect the performance of the boat
Your actions depend on how serious you are about making the rust go away. If you grind it and coat it with epoxy or chemicals you will slow down the rust. You can plan on doing that each time you haul it. If you sand blast it and coat it with epoxy within one hour there's a much better chance you won't be dealing with it for many years. Petit RustLox doesn't work, VC Tar barrier coat doesn't work, Interlux 2000 will seal up the rust that is in the pits you can't grind away. Rust never sleeps. Be prepared for an annual grinding mess of fix it right. Either way it won't effect the performance of the boat
I used a little better system
Pettit used to make a three part system, I ground down mine, coated the keel with foz. an acid that turns the metal black, then the same day primed it with the pettit undercoater, then i put on the reccomended red vinyl coating, it paints on really thick and makes a really great coating, then the pettit bottom paint. this worked for me for about 3 years, in between i would touch up the nicks. I tried everything else and this worked great.
Pettit used to make a three part system, I ground down mine, coated the keel with foz. an acid that turns the metal black, then the same day primed it with the pettit undercoater, then i put on the reccomended red vinyl coating, it paints on really thick and makes a really great coating, then the pettit bottom paint. this worked for me for about 3 years, in between i would touch up the nicks. I tried everything else and this worked great.
For such a well shaped keel, and good performance
that the deep keel has, the iron sucks. That material is still, after 18 years, the biggest disappointment (by far) that I have in my 34. I called Mars to price a lead keel. They guessed at a price, delivered to the northwest, of about 16K. Anybody want to form an association to by a bunch of them to lower the cost? P.S. Joe, you must have missed the thread from this winter about the same subject. What also works VERY well is to 'just' glass in the entire keel. Be sure to fair it well, in case I might be in the market for your boat.
that the deep keel has, the iron sucks. That material is still, after 18 years, the biggest disappointment (by far) that I have in my 34. I called Mars to price a lead keel. They guessed at a price, delivered to the northwest, of about 16K. Anybody want to form an association to by a bunch of them to lower the cost? P.S. Joe, you must have missed the thread from this winter about the same subject. What also works VERY well is to 'just' glass in the entire keel. Be sure to fair it well, in case I might be in the market for your boat.
Keel Replacement Question for Fred
So Fred, if you buy a $16,000 lead keel for your h34, will you insure the boat for $96,000 then? Smile! I know we disagree on a few issues related to this vessel but this one put the icing on the cake. Although I don't like the iron keel I believe it will last at least as long as the hull (may loose a few pounds from rust) but likely much longer
So Fred, if you buy a $16,000 lead keel for your h34, will you insure the boat for $96,000 then? Smile! I know we disagree on a few issues related to this vessel but this one put the icing on the cake. Although I don't like the iron keel I believe it will last at least as long as the hull (may loose a few pounds from rust) but likely much longer
Daryl, lead for the keel has the potential to be
a more efficient performer, assuming the same weight and area because it can be made thinner. But that is not why I want it. It's because that iron keel costs me an extra 4-5 days in the yard during haul outs. That alone, is reason enough to glass it in.
a more efficient performer, assuming the same weight and area because it can be made thinner. But that is not why I want it. It's because that iron keel costs me an extra 4-5 days in the yard during haul outs.
That alone, is reason enough to glass it in.Cast Iron Keel & Foss Rudders
Fred, I'm with you on all the extra time it takes to take care of any rust spots popping thru the finish gel coat on the keel or weeping out the hull to keel joint. Since I try to maintain a racing quality finish on the hull and keel, this work amounts to several weekends each spring grinding, primering epoxy filling and touching-up the keel, Same with those wonderfull Foss Foam rudders. I love the performance of my 28.5 and do not hesitate to run it against comparable size C&C's, Sabers or anything with a PHRF above 168 . That said, I don't think I'd ever buy another boat with a cast iron keel or a Foss rudder. I don't feel the cost and work of adding a Mars lead keel is as cost effective a solution as trading up to a boat that already has eliminated that problem.
Fred, I'm with you on all the extra time it takes to take care of any rust spots popping thru the finish gel coat on the keel or weeping out the hull to keel joint. Since I try to maintain a racing quality finish on the hull and keel, this work amounts to several weekends each spring grinding, primering epoxy filling and touching-up the keel, Same with those wonderfull Foss Foam rudders. I love the performance of my 28.5 and do not hesitate to run it against comparable size C&C's, Sabers or anything with a PHRF above 168 . That said, I don't think I'd ever buy another boat with a cast iron keel or a Foss rudder. I don't feel the cost and work of adding a Mars lead keel is as cost effective a solution as trading up to a boat that already has eliminated that problem.
Rust Treatment
I went through this last year (see the archives for a detailed account). Grind the rust spots to shiny metal. Paint w/in 60 minutes with Interlux 2002E or West System epoxy (I used West). Both recommend five coats; use the correct West additive (gray). For fairing, use West with fairing compound additive. Sand smooth and bottom paint. Hauled out this spring and to my surprise for the first time, no trace of any rust.
I went through this last year (see the archives for a detailed account). Grind the rust spots to shiny metal. Paint w/in 60 minutes with Interlux 2002E or West System epoxy (I used West). Both recommend five coats; use the correct West additive (gray). For fairing, use West with fairing compound additive. Sand smooth and bottom paint. Hauled out this spring and to my surprise for the first time, no trace of any rust.
spot treatment seems to work
The keel on my old 25.5 was sanded down and recoated w/ interlux 2000 6 yrs ago, and today I only see a few rust spots. My 34 has been spot sanded and filled w/ epoxy for the last 6 yrs,and this seems to work ok. If you have the time, take it down to shiny metal and it will last a while. The current method of sanding the spots clean, spraying w/ rustoleum primer and filling and fairing, is sufficient enough for me, until I have nothing else to do, but worry about a tenth of a knot loss in boat speed. When that day comes, I'll buy a folding prop.
The keel on my old 25.5 was sanded down and recoated w/ interlux 2000 6 yrs ago, and today I only see a few rust spots. My 34 has been spot sanded and filled w/ epoxy for the last 6 yrs,and this seems to work ok. If you have the time, take it down to shiny metal and it will last a while. The current method of sanding the spots clean, spraying w/ rustoleum primer and filling and fairing, is sufficient enough for me, until I have nothing else to do, but worry about a tenth of a knot loss in boat speed. When that day comes, I'll buy a folding prop.
Iron keel protection
Dose anyone out there has knowledge or experience to using Impressed Current(cathodis protection) to protect iron keel from rusting while boat is docked? Is this a feasible idea? Any input would benefit many many boat owner. jp
Dose anyone out there has knowledge or experience to using Impressed Current(cathodis protection) to protect iron keel from rusting while boat is docked? Is this a feasible idea? Any input would benefit many many boat owner. jp
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