Has anybody attempted to mount a wall mount iPad to the wall inside the cabin? I purchased an articulating arm that will pivot to view the iPad from both inside and outside the companionway. My concern is the limited bite I have in the glass on the interior vertical wall adjacent the entryway. My plan is to beef up this area with a plastic and to spread out the weight stressed area. The plastic I have considered is a cutting board that is 3/8" thick cut to size for the mounting area. I intend to use a heavy duty adhesive for the plastic as the weight of the arm is enough to cause stress over time. I'll attach the mount to this hoping to remove stress isolated in the fiberglass otherwise.
iPad wall mount
- Thread starter Nrmlspeed
- Start date
- Status
Man, that wall may be sturdier than you think. I've got a similar mount on mine holding a depth sounder/fish finder that has been bumped, banged, you name it. People going through the companionway, (myself included), often forget about it, and whammo. It's never given any inclination to come off. And it's only held on with two #10 screws. That area has got to be at least an inch thick, with plywood between the inner and outer layers of glass. It ain't coming off.
And after staring at this thing for over a year, I STILL have no clue as to what the fish finder part of it is telling me. Don't really care either, but it looks kinda sophisticated with all those squiggly little lines on there. Now and then when something unusual shows up on it, (that I have zero idea of what), I tell the ol' lady it's a huge shark, and she'll sit down lower in the boat.
And after staring at this thing for over a year, I STILL have no clue as to what the fish finder part of it is telling me. Don't really care either, but it looks kinda sophisticated with all those squiggly little lines on there. Now and then when something unusual shows up on it, (that I have zero idea of what), I tell the ol' lady it's a huge shark, and she'll sit down lower in the boat.
There are some good apps for speed and such. Here's the one I would like to try
MID WiFi by Veera Solutions Oy
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/mid-wifi/id468595285?mt=8
Not to mention the ability to watch a movie and Bluetooth music.
I guess I won't stress about the weight of this thing then. I didn't know there was plywood behind the glass. Looking at the holes that have been cut for some Ray Marine instruments it just looked like two molds of glass without anything sturdy in between them.
MID WiFi by Veera Solutions Oy
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/mid-wifi/id468595285?mt=8
Not to mention the ability to watch a movie and Bluetooth music.
I guess I won't stress about the weight of this thing then. I didn't know there was plywood behind the glass. Looking at the holes that have been cut for some Ray Marine instruments it just looked like two molds of glass without anything sturdy in between them.
Hmm, maybe we better defer to another authority on this. Looking at that picture it looks to be the MKII model, and it may have been redesigned in that area. Mine is thick as a battleship, but it's the old style.
If you're in doubt about it, or know for sure from looking at the other instrument hole, I'd through bolt it. Maybe a round headed bolt, what I used to refer to as a "stove bolt", that has a square bolster under the head to keep it from spinning, and put it in from the outside where all you see is the shiny stainless head of the bolt. And then put your nuts on from inside. There would be no need to use anything larger than a 1/4" bolt. Only two will hold it. They combined have the tensile strength to pick up the boat.
You wouldn't be able to knock it off with an ax.
If you're in doubt about it, or know for sure from looking at the other instrument hole, I'd through bolt it. Maybe a round headed bolt, what I used to refer to as a "stove bolt", that has a square bolster under the head to keep it from spinning, and put it in from the outside where all you see is the shiny stainless head of the bolt. And then put your nuts on from inside. There would be no need to use anything larger than a 1/4" bolt. Only two will hold it. They combined have the tensile strength to pick up the boat.
You wouldn't be able to knock it off with an ax.
Looks more like the rear cabin in the 2nd generation C-22. A view of our MK-II rear cabin is attached,(before we made several mods). Have you thought about some type of removable mount on the compression post? Or, how about a mount on the interior side of the hatch? Or, making a dedicated hatchboard that holds the flat screen? On our MK-II we set either the lap-top, or our portable DVD player on the little table in front of the compression post, plug the audio output into the boats stereo system, and the sound is like sitting in the movie theater! You have me thinking now of a flat-screen I saw with the built in DVD player and make a mount for it that would fit into my gimbled shove mount already on the compression post. MMmmmmmmm......
Keep us informed, and with pictures!
Don
Keep us informed, and with pictures!
Don
Attachments
FWIW, the aft bulkhead on my Capri 22 is about 3/4 to 1 inch thick. I put a RAM mount there for the chartplotter with no problems. I pre-drilled the holes to about 1/2 inch deep and made sure to use screws that were only long enough to go about that deep. No problems in 4 years and mine gets abused like Chris Patterson mentioned.
I'd be very surprised if the aft bulkhead on your 22 isn't of a similar thickness.
I'd be very surprised if the aft bulkhead on your 22 isn't of a similar thickness.
Heres the App in Youtube. Looks like its very functional. I'm gong to stick to plan and mount the articulating arm inside the cabin on the wall. I will adhere the plastic to disperse the weight and mount to the plastic for more bite. I'll post pictures soon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W17aU-sEpV0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W17aU-sEpV0
Don, that sliding shelf on the starboard side... did you come up with that, or is it part of the newer design?
Stan
Stan,
That is the factory sliding galley on the MK-II version. Although I think it's a little better design than I had on our original C-22, it still takes up a lot of room, and there is better uses for the space. I've removed it, and sealed off the drain hole in the bottom of the hull,(I don't want no holes in the bottom of the hull). I attached a photo of the MK-II factory galley.
Don
That is the factory sliding galley on the MK-II version. Although I think it's a little better design than I had on our original C-22, it still takes up a lot of room, and there is better uses for the space. I've removed it, and sealed off the drain hole in the bottom of the hull,(I don't want no holes in the bottom of the hull). I attached a photo of the MK-II factory galley.
Don
Attachments
I was looking at that You-Tube shot of the iPad on the RAM mount. I installed the little RAM ball mount on the top of the cabin and bought the RAM mount for my Garmin so it sits on top of the cabin under the bimini in easy view, and doesn't get in the way of the compainionway. It's easy to take on and off, holds the Garmin very securely too,(which is pretty heavy for it's size). Just a thought....
Don
Don
Attachments
Here's the fabrication for the iPad. I bought the rotating iPad holder/cradle from ebay new for 18.00. Since the articulating arm is intended for a television I attached a 3/8" block of plastic and screwed the ipad cradle onto it. It allows the screen to rotate. This arm is much heavier than I would like but that's the consequence of buying online and not actually holding it. The arm is very strong. Steel construction. I bought it from Mounts Direct for 14.00. This is a great deal.
http://www.mountdirect.com/Small_Flat_TV_Mount_s/3.htm
I'm still concerned about what is behind that fiberglass where I intend to screw it on. I'm hoping plywood? Anyone know for sure? I haven't been out to the boat to check in there. I plan to use 1 1/2" long screws which will give me 5/8" into the glass. More would be better.
Here's the arm below....
http://www.mountdirect.com/Small_Flat_TV_Mount_s/3.htm
I'm still concerned about what is behind that fiberglass where I intend to screw it on. I'm hoping plywood? Anyone know for sure? I haven't been out to the boat to check in there. I plan to use 1 1/2" long screws which will give me 5/8" into the glass. More would be better.
Here's the arm below....
Attachments
Arm looks cool, but the low-wing Navy trainer looks WAY cool! Been too long since I've flown mine. RC flying buddy moved out of town.
Stan
Attachments
Is that the Eflite Mentor? I flew mine yesterday. It's CATIII here in PHX today so I cancelled due to weather.
The Mentor needs a 4s lipo 30 c. Otherwise it hangs on the prop it seems. My flaps are either full up or full down...no intermediate unfortunately. If I got out of RC I could afford a new mainsl. I'd also like an Assym spinnaker..
The rc plane looks RTF, but maybe I'm wrong. Is it scratch? Is it kit? I had some cool kit-build RCs in my time: West's Super Hots 40 was my favorite. Sport plane with symetric airfoil. Ah, the memories. I think Tower Hobbies and Great Planes control most of that territory now.
Yes, that arm looks WAY heavy for an ipad! Try shining a strong light through the glass you want to mount it on. Light won't pass through plywood-core glass. If it doesn't shine through, it doesn't NECESSARILY mean it's plywood cored. Next, just tap it. Tap up front on your deck. Tap the bulkhead where you will mount the ipad. The deck is definitely ply-core. If they have the same resonance, they are close to the same thickness and same material. Not really scientific, I know, but this isn't a rocket either.
Andrew
Yes, that arm looks WAY heavy for an ipad! Try shining a strong light through the glass you want to mount it on. Light won't pass through plywood-core glass. If it doesn't shine through, it doesn't NECESSARILY mean it's plywood cored. Next, just tap it. Tap up front on your deck. Tap the bulkhead where you will mount the ipad. The deck is definitely ply-core. If they have the same resonance, they are close to the same thickness and same material. Not really scientific, I know, but this isn't a rocket either.
Andrew
Hell, run a small drill bit up in it. See what comes out. Take you time with it, I mean REAL slow, and you'll be able to determine depth as well. If you've got any "meat" in there, (and I think you do), that bracket looks like it holds 4 screws. With 4 #8, or #10 screws, pilot drill it out a little, squirt a drop of epoxy, Marinetex, whatever in the hole first, then the screws, it won't move. There again, 4-#10 screws would hold my kitchen table to the ceiling..
- Status