Hunter 31 First time inverter user.....is it as simple as wiring the load side of the inverter directly into the A/C wiring, thereby energizing all the a/c wiring system? This would enable me to plug appliances into recepticles as usual. OK??? Or would there be too much voltage drop?
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Which model/mfg.?
I only know for certain how my Heart(Xantrex) is wired. I would not want to assume that all are wired like my Freedom 20. The Heart and Xantrex models have an AC three wire jumper cable from the back of the shorepower plug connected into the input. The output is the original AC wiring that goes to your main AC breaker on the panel. It has simply been moved from the shorepower plug to the output of the inverter. There is circuitry in the inverter to switch from battery supplied AC to shorepower AC as soon as you plug in the shorepower cable. Originally I could prevent the inverter from using the batteries with an ON/OFF switch on a remote panel. Now I control that with a Link 2000.
I only know for certain how my Heart(Xantrex) is wired. I would not want to assume that all are wired like my Freedom 20. The Heart and Xantrex models have an AC three wire jumper cable from the back of the shorepower plug connected into the input. The output is the original AC wiring that goes to your main AC breaker on the panel. It has simply been moved from the shorepower plug to the output of the inverter. There is circuitry in the inverter to switch from battery supplied AC to shorepower AC as soon as you plug in the shorepower cable. Originally I could prevent the inverter from using the batteries with an ON/OFF switch on a remote panel. Now I control that with a Link 2000.
Cigarette lighter outlet
Gary: I just plug my small inverter into the cigarette lighter. This is what I use to power my PC when i am away from the dock! The larger ones require a direct connection to the battery bank. The larger unit that can power the entire boat need to be wired according to mfg. specifications. I think on the H'31 there are two AC legs (port/starboard) with a single toggle switch. If you get something that is large enough to run the entire boat, you may need to upgrade your battery bank if you have not already done so.
Gary: I just plug my small inverter into the cigarette lighter. This is what I use to power my PC when i am away from the dock! The larger ones require a direct connection to the battery bank. The larger unit that can power the entire boat need to be wired according to mfg. specifications. I think on the H'31 there are two AC legs (port/starboard) with a single toggle switch. If you get something that is large enough to run the entire boat, you may need to upgrade your battery bank if you have not already done so.
Think about it
What do you expect to run with the inverter?. Just hooking up to your AC circuit means you'll be making hot water and your batteries will be dead in a hurry. I've done several vessels under 35' and generally add a circuit that goes only where I plan to use that power (fridge, coffee maker, ...) and isolate it from the rest of the AC circuits
What do you expect to run with the inverter?. Just hooking up to your AC circuit means you'll be making hot water and your batteries will be dead in a hurry. I've done several vessels under 35' and generally add a circuit that goes only where I plan to use that power (fridge, coffee maker, ...) and isolate it from the rest of the AC circuits
Keep it Simple
What do you expect run off the inverter? Do you plan to upgrade the battery or charging system? Are you buying a basic inverter or an Inverter/charger? I installed two six volt deep cycle golf cart batteries in series to make twelve volts. Sams Club sells them for fifty bucks. I am able to run a dorm fridge for three to four days of so before I charge them up
What do you expect run off the inverter? Do you plan to upgrade the battery or charging system? Are you buying a basic inverter or an Inverter/charger? I installed two six volt deep cycle golf cart batteries in series to make twelve volts. Sams Club sells them for fifty bucks. I am able to run a dorm fridge for three to four days of so before I charge them up
It will be running....
a flat panel 15" Sony tv (48 watts according to the manual)....and maybe a DVD. My H31 doesn't have a cigarette plug anywhere forward that I can think of, where my tv is located. I'm all for simple too, but if there's no sacrifice of energy to connect to the A/C system, that's the best plan...no? Otherwise, I'd have ugly wire running back there. I'm thinking of maybe a 400 watt unit.
a flat panel 15" Sony tv (48 watts according to the manual)....and maybe a DVD. My H31 doesn't have a cigarette plug anywhere forward that I can think of, where my tv is located. I'm all for simple too, but if there's no sacrifice of energy to connect to the A/C system, that's the best plan...no? Otherwise, I'd have ugly wire running back there. I'm thinking of maybe a 400 watt unit.
Simple need, simple system.
If you are just considering a 400W inverter for TV purpose keep it simple and inexpensive. A 12V plug will do it but keep it at close to the battery as posible. You may use an extension on the 110V side but keep the 12V connector short. Stay away from hardwiring the unit and breakers. If you are considering refrigeration and other appliances and are willing to spend some bucks, hardwire a 2000W unit with #2 gauge wire and a 250W breaker.
If you are just considering a 400W inverter for TV purpose keep it simple and inexpensive. A 12V plug will do it but keep it at close to the battery as posible. You may use an extension on the 110V side but keep the 12V connector short. Stay away from hardwiring the unit and breakers. If you are considering refrigeration and other appliances and are willing to spend some bucks, hardwire a 2000W unit with #2 gauge wire and a 250W breaker.
What???
Yea, it would probably be dead sooner than that.......IF you plug in an appliance that draws 34 amps, but my tv draws 48 watts which translates to around 4 amps. The wiring is no problem.
Yea, it would probably be dead sooner than that.......IF you plug in an appliance that draws 34 amps, but my tv draws 48 watts which translates to around 4 amps. The wiring is no problem.
Cig. lighter on chart table.
Gary: We have a cig. lighter next to the circuit breakers below the companionway. We also installed one over the chart table. Where are you going to put the TV and/or DVD?
Gary: We have a cig. lighter next to the circuit breakers below the companionway. We also installed one over the chart table. Where are you going to put the TV and/or DVD?
4 hrs for a TV???
Ross, I run a refigerator which draws 1 amp at 110V and approx. 10 Amps at 12V and in 70 degree weather it will run all day and night, plus CD player and anchor lights and have power to start the engine the next morning. My inverter is 1200W. I don't understand where you get that a couple of hours running a 15" TV on a 400W inverter will kill a battery in 4 hrs. The inverter by itself consumes minimal power; the amp load is what needs to be considered. Also a 400W inverter can be connected with a simple 12V plug to run a TV and DVD.
Ross, I run a refigerator which draws 1 amp at 110V and approx. 10 Amps at 12V and in 70 degree weather it will run all day and night, plus CD player and anchor lights and have power to start the engine the next morning. My inverter is 1200W. I don't understand where you get that a couple of hours running a 15" TV on a 400W inverter will kill a battery in 4 hrs. The inverter by itself consumes minimal power; the amp load is what needs to be considered. Also a 400W inverter can be connected with a simple 12V plug to run a TV and DVD.
Steve....That's the problem...
it's a flat panel mounted on the forward bulkhead. I have 12v plugs all over the place aft, but nowhere forward. I guess I'm doomed to run cords up there. Hey Benny....you slipped in before I read your post, but you say to extend the 110v side rather than the 12v side. It seems that there would be more voltage drop on a ~16 gauge extension cord than the 12 gauge conductor existing boat wiring. What do you think?
it's a flat panel mounted on the forward bulkhead. I have 12v plugs all over the place aft, but nowhere forward. I guess I'm doomed to run cords up there. Hey Benny....you slipped in before I read your post, but you say to extend the 110v side rather than the 12v side. It seems that there would be more voltage drop on a ~16 gauge extension cord than the 12 gauge conductor existing boat wiring. What do you think?
Benny, A 400 watt inverter
has the ability to draw down a battery in that time frame if you put a 400 watt load on it. You must wire it for its full capacity even if you will never use it. If you don't put any load on it it will only idle and not be a significant drain on the batteries.
has the ability to draw down a battery in that time frame if you put a 400 watt load on it. You must wire it for its full capacity even if you will never use it. If you don't put any load on it it will only idle and not be a significant drain on the batteries.
Ross...
You do not have to wire an inverter to carry it's potential load. You can install a 2000 watt inverter and charge your digital camera with it. The amperage draw is a function of the load applied. You wrote "If you don't put any load on it it will only idle and not be a significant drain on the batteries". I don't understand this.....the objective is to avoid a significant drain on the batteries??
You do not have to wire an inverter to carry it's potential load. You can install a 2000 watt inverter and charge your digital camera with it. The amperage draw is a function of the load applied. You wrote "If you don't put any load on it it will only idle and not be a significant drain on the batteries". I don't understand this.....the objective is to avoid a significant drain on the batteries??
Gary, if you install a 2 kw inverter
and I know that you have a 2 kw inverter Why should I not believe that it is safe to plug in a toaster oven? Your home is probably wired for 200 amp service. There may be times when you have only a small nightlight running. But the power is there to be drawn when you turn on the stove in the kitchen, your wife turns on a hair dryer, you put bread in the toaster and make coffee. If you install a 400 watt inverter and don't wire it for full load you have the potential for overloading the wiring. 400 watts isn't much in todays world and is easy to reach. You may need to plug in a drill, or a hair dryer. I have a 200 watt soldering iron. If all that you will ever run on this inverter is the TV then a smaller inverter will serve. But wire it for its rated capacity.
and I know that you have a 2 kw inverter Why should I not believe that it is safe to plug in a toaster oven? Your home is probably wired for 200 amp service. There may be times when you have only a small nightlight running. But the power is there to be drawn when you turn on the stove in the kitchen, your wife turns on a hair dryer, you put bread in the toaster and make coffee. If you install a 400 watt inverter and don't wire it for full load you have the potential for overloading the wiring. 400 watts isn't much in todays world and is easy to reach. You may need to plug in a drill, or a hair dryer. I have a 200 watt soldering iron. If all that you will ever run on this inverter is the TV then a smaller inverter will serve. But wire it for its rated capacity.
Shorter pass to DC side.
Gary, the reason for the shorter pass on the DC side is that the DC current draw on the inverter is approximately 10 times the delivered AC current. Because of this your voltage loss at the AC side will be lesser and allow you to use an extension for a TV load. The rule of thumb is that if you are going to load your inverter for 150W or more you need to hardwire and fuse it. But for loads under 150W it is safe and more convenient to use a 12V plug.
Gary, the reason for the shorter pass on the DC side is that the DC current draw on the inverter is approximately 10 times the delivered AC current. Because of this your voltage loss at the AC side will be lesser and allow you to use an extension for a TV load. The rule of thumb is that if you are going to load your inverter for 150W or more you need to hardwire and fuse it. But for loads under 150W it is safe and more convenient to use a 12V plug.
yes
an wired electric outlet dosent use any more power than an extention cord of the same length and size,ac goes farther. the battery supply wire needs to be short and heavy enough gauge to carry max load even though the whole load may not being used. go to archives to look up battery care/charging info. you will be glad you looked.
an wired electric outlet dosent use any more power than an extention cord of the same length and size,ac goes farther. the battery supply wire needs to be short and heavy enough gauge to carry max load even though the whole load may not being used. go to archives to look up battery care/charging info. you will be glad you looked.
On my boat
I installed a 2.4kw converter at the end of last season. I hard wired it to the battery bank and when I unplug from shore power I can plug my shore power cord directly into my inverter with an adapter. Advantages: 1. My entire ac system is "hot". I can use any outlet on board. 2. I still have all of my breakers in the system, doing their jobs. 3. Using the shore power cord prevents me from having both shore power and inverter power on at the same time (that can't be good). 4. It's simple. It takes 15 seconds to plug into the inverter as I am stowing my power cord. If I need inverter power I just flip the switch to turn on the inverter. On my boat the main shore power plug-in for the boat is in a locker with the battery bank switch, out of the way so I can leave it plugged in all the time. Disadvantages: 1. I'm sure the extra 50' of my shore power cord drains some of the efficiency out of this system but we don't really use it a lot. As for the comment made about having your water heater draining your battery bank, I've never seen a boat that has a water heater that does not have a switch to turn it off. We normally don't run our water heater on ac power anyway. I will say that this is a very new system to us and we really don't have a lot of experience using it but so far, so good. Tom s/v Orion's Child
I installed a 2.4kw converter at the end of last season. I hard wired it to the battery bank and when I unplug from shore power I can plug my shore power cord directly into my inverter with an adapter. Advantages: 1. My entire ac system is "hot". I can use any outlet on board. 2. I still have all of my breakers in the system, doing their jobs. 3. Using the shore power cord prevents me from having both shore power and inverter power on at the same time (that can't be good). 4. It's simple. It takes 15 seconds to plug into the inverter as I am stowing my power cord. If I need inverter power I just flip the switch to turn on the inverter. On my boat the main shore power plug-in for the boat is in a locker with the battery bank switch, out of the way so I can leave it plugged in all the time. Disadvantages: 1. I'm sure the extra 50' of my shore power cord drains some of the efficiency out of this system but we don't really use it a lot. As for the comment made about having your water heater draining your battery bank, I've never seen a boat that has a water heater that does not have a switch to turn it off. We normally don't run our water heater on ac power anyway. I will say that this is a very new system to us and we really don't have a lot of experience using it but so far, so good. Tom s/v Orion's Child
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