I own a 1983 C30. This winter I am going to run my halyard internally. For anyone who has done this, how did you deal with the mast head fitting? Did you simply drill holes where the halyards would pass through into the mast? Also, where did you exit the mast and what did you use for the exit...exit plates, exit blocks ect. How did you deal with screws that protrude into the mast to avoid halyards catching on them?
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I did it on a Sun 27
The boat had wire halyards that crossed fore and aft at the masthead. I replaced the 4 narrow sheves with two wider ones for rope. the mast exits were dougle rollers secured with aluminum pop rivets. This setup was one of the best things I did to the boat and gave satisfactory service for 20 years until I sold the boat.
The boat had wire halyards that crossed fore and aft at the masthead. I replaced the 4 narrow sheves with two wider ones for rope. the mast exits were dougle rollers secured with aluminum pop rivets. This setup was one of the best things I did to the boat and gave satisfactory service for 20 years until I sold the boat.
You can get the proper hardware from the Catalina Parts Dept. Exit blocks, screws and, if you want, a new mast head with the right openings. I got the exit blocks and screws from Catalina (for 1979 C30) and will take the mast down next spring, drill the openings myself (saving about $180), run new halyards and replace the wiring, add an anchor light and spreader light. Then have a well-deserved beer (or two). Good luck on your project.
see what I used - Nico Fico exit plates
I used Nico Fico exit plates (Metal Mast - Putnam, CT) staggering the height to not weaken the mast and still allow you to jump the spinnaker halyard. Not that I jump anything anymore! To install these you cut out a small rectangle from a template using a metal blade and sabre saw; smooth the edges and the top, and drop the plate in which is secured with 1 3/8" 10 X 24 machine screw. You should to use machine screws so you also need to drill & tap which is real easy in aluminum. For the masthead - again drill out and file smooth. Snaking tracer lines for the halyards can be done using 3+ lengths of cheap 3/8" X 10' plastic pipes and connectors. I painted my mast beforehand and put the wiring into a 1" emt conduit riveted in front right. If you plan on using exit boxes instead I have a pair I bought from Catalina and didn't use.
I used Nico Fico exit plates (Metal Mast - Putnam, CT) staggering the height to not weaken the mast and still allow you to jump the spinnaker halyard. Not that I jump anything anymore! To install these you cut out a small rectangle from a template using a metal blade and sabre saw; smooth the edges and the top, and drop the plate in which is secured with 1 3/8" 10 X 24 machine screw. You should to use machine screws so you also need to drill & tap which is real easy in aluminum. For the masthead - again drill out and file smooth. Snaking tracer lines for the halyards can be done using 3+ lengths of cheap 3/8" X 10' plastic pipes and connectors. I painted my mast beforehand and put the wiring into a 1" emt conduit riveted in front right. If you plan on using exit boxes instead I have a pair I bought from Catalina and didn't use.
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