I'm thinking seriously about running the halyards internally on my 1975 masthead rig O'Day 22. There are 4 sheaves at the masthead which seemingly can only be used now in parallel pairs--i.e., two port side sheaves used for jib halyard and two starboard side sheaves used for main halyard (or vice versa). I'm pretty confident that they could each be used for a halyard or topping lift or spinnaker halyard, etc. (rather than in pairs). However, before drilling out the rivets to the masthead fitting to get at the sheave boxes, I'm very nervous about cutting slots in the sides of the mast below for the internal halyards to pass out to cleats (or turning blocks for aft-led halyards). Anyone else here with an O'Day 22 already have internal halyards or modify their mast for internal halyards? I'd feel more confident about doing this if I knew it worked in practice. I'd also love to see photos of the slots (or whatever you have) which let the halyards back out of the mast towards the butt end. Thanks.
- Status
Kenyon Spar for 22
Go to: http://rigrite.com/kenyon/E-mast.html click on the highlighted "exit blocks" or "exit plates" for examples of options. Please note that masts with internal halyards should have internal wiring routed in pvc tubing or something to prevent chafe. Dwyermast.com shows some cross sections with internal tubes.
Go to: http://rigrite.com/kenyon/E-mast.html click on the highlighted "exit blocks" or "exit plates" for examples of options. Please note that masts with internal halyards should have internal wiring routed in pvc tubing or something to prevent chafe. Dwyermast.com shows some cross sections with internal tubes.
Not really nervous anymore
Since my original post, I have gritted my teeth, scoured the internet and gone ahead with my original plan. To date, I have been very happy with the decision to cut holes and run the halyards internally. Incidentally, after posting the first message, I discovered that the masthead fitting was simply bolted to the mast--no rivets to drill through. I also discovered that the masthead casting into which the sheave box fits was already hollow/open in the center--making me believe that the designer/manufacturer believed that internal halyards were possible/likely. Before doing the internal halyards, I bought two 10 foot lengths of schedule 40 white pvc 1/2 inch pipe and a connector, glued them all together (making an c. 20 foot conduit), laid pipe along side forward part of mast, taped it to mast with duct tape, drilled a series of pairs of small holes through mast and pipe, removed tape and inserted pipe into top end of mast, pushing it all the way down (making sure it stayed forward of the spreaders). I then used a hooked tool (dental pick) to grab the pipe through one drilled hole in the mast while inserting an aluminum pop rivet into its adjoining drilled hole. Once that rivet was done, I put a rivet into the hole where the dental pick was before (filling that hole as well). I continued on down the mast, doing all the holes and wonderfully securing the new internal pipe wire chase to the mast. Once finished, I used an electrician's fish tape to pull my new mast wires up through the pipe chase and wire my new lights. I also drilled the center of the mast step aluminum casting and tapped it to accept a 3/4" pvc pipe nipple which I threaded into the casting, allowing my mast wire to run totally enclosed within the mast and through the maststep casting and cabin top, down into the cabin to my electrical panel. In this way, there are no exposed wires or holes on the cabin top, along side of the mast (where they are normally stepped on and/or tripped over) and the mast wire is safely within the mast. The pipe nipple is high enough that water probably would not flow over it into the hole below but, just in case, I filled it with silicone after the wire was run through. No leaks or problems to date. After all that, I cut three oval shaped elongated holes (2 starboard, one port)into the mast sides. This allows me to use three masthead sheaves for three halyards--i didn't see the need for four, although I could always add one more). Port side is used for jib/genoa halyard; starboard side is used for main halyard and a whisker pole lift/spare jib/genoa halyard. I put the starboard holes about 6 feet up from the base and the port hole about 4 feet up from the base--afraid that if I placed them directly opposite each other that I might make the mast too weak at the same level. Not wishing to make the holes any bigger than absolutely necessary, I searched and located some neat Forespar exit boxes made of nylon and stainless ($8.95 each) that use about a 2 inch by 5/8 inch wide hole (see related link)--i.e., smallest ones I could find. I'm using 1/4 inch Sta-set for halyards--working great; larger line would probably work O.K., just didn't see the need for it. To cut the holes to size, I marked each oval hole perimeter on the mast with marker/crayon, drilled the two ends with a step drill to 5/8 inch size and then connected the two round holes by using a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to make the straight, parallel cuts. I then rounded/filed all edges (in and out) with the Dremel tool and a small round bastard file. It's been a few weeks now, the mast is back up, halyards have been run, I've raced the boat in a couple of heavy weather PHRF club races and I'm very happy with my work and the decision to run the halyards internally. No clutter or banging halyards outside the mast and the halyards turn on blocks mounted on a new stainless halyard plate bolted beneath the aluminum maststep. From there, the halyard run out port and starboard to triple deck organizers mounted on the cabin roof, turning aft and running to triple rope clutches mounted on epoxy pads on each side of the companionway. Raising/lowering halyards from the cockpit has never been easier or more efficient. I'm also in the process of running the vang and boom downhaul through the deck organizers and to the rope clutches--effectively removing most reasons to go forward while sailing/racing. I will try to post pictures of the whole project here in the near future (in case anyone is interested).
Since my original post, I have gritted my teeth, scoured the internet and gone ahead with my original plan. To date, I have been very happy with the decision to cut holes and run the halyards internally. Incidentally, after posting the first message, I discovered that the masthead fitting was simply bolted to the mast--no rivets to drill through. I also discovered that the masthead casting into which the sheave box fits was already hollow/open in the center--making me believe that the designer/manufacturer believed that internal halyards were possible/likely. Before doing the internal halyards, I bought two 10 foot lengths of schedule 40 white pvc 1/2 inch pipe and a connector, glued them all together (making an c. 20 foot conduit), laid pipe along side forward part of mast, taped it to mast with duct tape, drilled a series of pairs of small holes through mast and pipe, removed tape and inserted pipe into top end of mast, pushing it all the way down (making sure it stayed forward of the spreaders). I then used a hooked tool (dental pick) to grab the pipe through one drilled hole in the mast while inserting an aluminum pop rivet into its adjoining drilled hole. Once that rivet was done, I put a rivet into the hole where the dental pick was before (filling that hole as well). I continued on down the mast, doing all the holes and wonderfully securing the new internal pipe wire chase to the mast. Once finished, I used an electrician's fish tape to pull my new mast wires up through the pipe chase and wire my new lights. I also drilled the center of the mast step aluminum casting and tapped it to accept a 3/4" pvc pipe nipple which I threaded into the casting, allowing my mast wire to run totally enclosed within the mast and through the maststep casting and cabin top, down into the cabin to my electrical panel. In this way, there are no exposed wires or holes on the cabin top, along side of the mast (where they are normally stepped on and/or tripped over) and the mast wire is safely within the mast. The pipe nipple is high enough that water probably would not flow over it into the hole below but, just in case, I filled it with silicone after the wire was run through. No leaks or problems to date. After all that, I cut three oval shaped elongated holes (2 starboard, one port)into the mast sides. This allows me to use three masthead sheaves for three halyards--i didn't see the need for four, although I could always add one more). Port side is used for jib/genoa halyard; starboard side is used for main halyard and a whisker pole lift/spare jib/genoa halyard. I put the starboard holes about 6 feet up from the base and the port hole about 4 feet up from the base--afraid that if I placed them directly opposite each other that I might make the mast too weak at the same level. Not wishing to make the holes any bigger than absolutely necessary, I searched and located some neat Forespar exit boxes made of nylon and stainless ($8.95 each) that use about a 2 inch by 5/8 inch wide hole (see related link)--i.e., smallest ones I could find. I'm using 1/4 inch Sta-set for halyards--working great; larger line would probably work O.K., just didn't see the need for it. To cut the holes to size, I marked each oval hole perimeter on the mast with marker/crayon, drilled the two ends with a step drill to 5/8 inch size and then connected the two round holes by using a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to make the straight, parallel cuts. I then rounded/filed all edges (in and out) with the Dremel tool and a small round bastard file. It's been a few weeks now, the mast is back up, halyards have been run, I've raced the boat in a couple of heavy weather PHRF club races and I'm very happy with my work and the decision to run the halyards internally. No clutter or banging halyards outside the mast and the halyards turn on blocks mounted on a new stainless halyard plate bolted beneath the aluminum maststep. From there, the halyard run out port and starboard to triple deck organizers mounted on the cabin roof, turning aft and running to triple rope clutches mounted on epoxy pads on each side of the companionway. Raising/lowering halyards from the cockpit has never been easier or more efficient. I'm also in the process of running the vang and boom downhaul through the deck organizers and to the rope clutches--effectively removing most reasons to go forward while sailing/racing. I will try to post pictures of the whole project here in the near future (in case anyone is interested).
- Status