I know this has been adressed in the past, but I can't find it in the archives. Does anyone have a sure-cure for that infernal slap/slap/slap of the halyards INSIDE the mast? We could use some sleep........... Michael O'
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Halyards or Wires?
Michael - are you sure it's the halyards causing the problem? Typically it's the wires to things like the VHF antenna, etc., that are the culprit. Are your halyards cloth (Dacron, etc.) or wire?
Michael - are you sure it's the halyards causing the problem? Typically it's the wires to things like the VHF antenna, etc., that are the culprit. Are your halyards cloth (Dacron, etc.) or wire?
Hey John, assume its the wires
in Michael's mast,(and mine too), anything short of pulling the mast to resolve? Scott
in Michael's mast,(and mine too), anything short of pulling the mast to resolve? Scott
Dunno - but maybe wires?!?
I just assumed it was the halyards, but since their pulled tight most of the time, I'm betting you're correct in considering it's the in-mast wiring. Makes sense..... but it still brings up the question of how to stop it? Is it as simple as tightening the wires by pulling down at the bottom of the mast? BTW, our O'Day 34 is keel-stepped so access is via the bilge. Michael O'
I just assumed it was the halyards, but since their pulled tight most of the time, I'm betting you're correct in considering it's the in-mast wiring. Makes sense..... but it still brings up the question of how to stop it? Is it as simple as tightening the wires by pulling down at the bottom of the mast? BTW, our O'Day 34 is keel-stepped so access is via the bilge. Michael O'
Mast Make? & "Bailingwire" Fix-it
Question: Anybody know what make of mast the 33 has? Actually, for the short term, a fix-it without pulling the mast, that probably doesn't matter anyway. Some masts, such as the Isomat link here: http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Isomat_Spars/Isomat_Masts/NG51_mast.html have a provision for an internal conduit for the wires. The problem is the mast would have to be pulled and it would take quite a bit of effort to install the conduits. In southern Cal, however, there should be a good source for conduits which would be a plus. My bainlingwire fix-it idea is to go to a spot where one might be able to access the inside of the mast, say at a steaming light location or some other spot if there is an opening. Now this could be a real stretch, but, if one can somehow snag the offending wire(s)with something, say some tie wire with a hook, and put something around the wire like an Ancor "cushion clamp" (a metal clamp with a neoprene protector, reference the Ancor site at http://www.ancorproducts.com/Products/Home.html) and maybe pop-rivit the clamp in place. If the hole access is too small, which it probably is, then just snagging the wire without snagging and internal halyard might be a challenge and and then finding a way to secure it the next challenge. By anchoring the offending wire(s) at some approx mid-point in the mast one would at least reduce the amount of cable slap. At some point (don't know the age of the boat) the past should be pulled and inspected, and the rigging replaced. Sheaves inspected or replaced, and probably even the wiring and anchor light/masthead antenna replaced. This would be a good time to install a conduit. Talk to a local rigger or marine electrician and see if they have any tricks up their sleeve. Recommend not puting tension on the mast wires because you don't know if they ever put a strain-relief device on or not. If they didn't put the wire in a conduit I wouldn't hold my breath that they did anything else right either. If the wires are tensioned you could wind up with a bundle at the base of the mast. For that matter, all that movement could eventually cause chafing on the insulation. What do you think? Just realized this got a little long-winded - hope it gives you some ideas.
Question: Anybody know what make of mast the 33 has? Actually, for the short term, a fix-it without pulling the mast, that probably doesn't matter anyway. Some masts, such as the Isomat link here: http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Isomat_Spars/Isomat_Masts/NG51_mast.html have a provision for an internal conduit for the wires. The problem is the mast would have to be pulled and it would take quite a bit of effort to install the conduits. In southern Cal, however, there should be a good source for conduits which would be a plus. My bainlingwire fix-it idea is to go to a spot where one might be able to access the inside of the mast, say at a steaming light location or some other spot if there is an opening. Now this could be a real stretch, but, if one can somehow snag the offending wire(s)with something, say some tie wire with a hook, and put something around the wire like an Ancor "cushion clamp" (a metal clamp with a neoprene protector, reference the Ancor site at http://www.ancorproducts.com/Products/Home.html) and maybe pop-rivit the clamp in place. If the hole access is too small, which it probably is, then just snagging the wire without snagging and internal halyard might be a challenge and and then finding a way to secure it the next challenge. By anchoring the offending wire(s) at some approx mid-point in the mast one would at least reduce the amount of cable slap. At some point (don't know the age of the boat) the past should be pulled and inspected, and the rigging replaced. Sheaves inspected or replaced, and probably even the wiring and anchor light/masthead antenna replaced. This would be a good time to install a conduit. Talk to a local rigger or marine electrician and see if they have any tricks up their sleeve. Recommend not puting tension on the mast wires because you don't know if they ever put a strain-relief device on or not. If they didn't put the wire in a conduit I wouldn't hold my breath that they did anything else right either. If the wires are tensioned you could wind up with a bundle at the base of the mast. For that matter, all that movement could eventually cause chafing on the insulation. What do you think? Just realized this got a little long-winded - hope it gives you some ideas.
Been there
We had the same problem and when I took the mast down on my Oday 23 at the end of the season I removed the bottom plate and put foam pipe insulation on the antenna & mast light wires. The foam insulation was the stuff they put on water pipes and I got it from a local hardware store. good luck
We had the same problem and when I took the mast down on my Oday 23 at the end of the season I removed the bottom plate and put foam pipe insulation on the antenna & mast light wires. The foam insulation was the stuff they put on water pipes and I got it from a local hardware store. good luck
mast noise
Look in archives under 'banging and clanging' or 'scrubbies'. I'm not sure how to separate internal halyards from permanent wiring, but some of the favored techniques involved the pipe insulators, zip ties with the tails left on, and the kind of scrubbies you wash dishes with.
Look in archives under 'banging and clanging' or 'scrubbies'. I'm not sure how to separate internal halyards from permanent wiring, but some of the favored techniques involved the pipe insulators, zip ties with the tails left on, and the kind of scrubbies you wash dishes with.
That Helps!
Thanks, guys, for your input! I'd say NOW I've got something to work with! And since we'll pull the mast next time we haul for painting, we should be able to run those unsulator up the wires. John Nantz..... I know you somehow..... Did I purchase an Autohelm from you last spring? Or are you a Pearson 28 owner? (Or both?) Michael O'
Thanks, guys, for your input! I'd say NOW I've got something to work with! And since we'll pull the mast next time we haul for painting, we should be able to run those unsulator up the wires. John Nantz..... I know you somehow..... Did I purchase an Autohelm from you last spring? Or are you a Pearson 28 owner? (Or both?) Michael O'
Yup! ye ol' Autohelm!
Yes - the Autohelm. Hope you got out sailing more than I did last season and got to use it. I only managed one weekend plus a short week plus about 3 hours on one Sunday afternoon for an entire year. This is one totally frustrated sailor!
Yes - the Autohelm. Hope you got out sailing more than I did last season and got to use it. I only managed one weekend plus a short week plus about 3 hours on one Sunday afternoon for an entire year. This is one totally frustrated sailor!
John N - A bit more sailing here!
John – In spite of our incredible drought in Utah (our “inland boat” had to be hauled in JULY!), we got plenty of sailing on the west coast. Our O’Day 34 (the boat that was to receive your Autohelm) was in Alameda April to July while we got it ready for our coastal trip to San Diego. So we sailed a bit in SF Bay before departing the Gate on July 5. We took two weeks to make it SD, and we’ve been sailing out of Harbor Island since – including a trip up to King Harbor (Redondo Beach) and back. We’re heading to the Los Coronados on our next visit to the boat, Dec 12-14. So I guess we’re doing quite well, at least in comparison to your dearth of wind-time! As for installing the Autohelm, it was lower on my priority list than other items, and since my brother was able to join us we didn’t really need the extra “hand” of an autopilot. So, it made the trip in the hold! And I sold it to a fellow Pearson 28 owner (my “inland boat”) in Chicago, got nearly the same price for it so I’m only out shipping cost. After our experience in 10’-14’ seas I think I’ll opt for as powerful an autopilot as I can get! In retrospect, the 4000 probably wouldn’t have been useful until we got into the smoother seas of the Santa Barbara Channel. Best wishes, John, and fair winds! Michael O’
John – In spite of our incredible drought in Utah (our “inland boat” had to be hauled in JULY!), we got plenty of sailing on the west coast. Our O’Day 34 (the boat that was to receive your Autohelm) was in Alameda April to July while we got it ready for our coastal trip to San Diego. So we sailed a bit in SF Bay before departing the Gate on July 5. We took two weeks to make it SD, and we’ve been sailing out of Harbor Island since – including a trip up to King Harbor (Redondo Beach) and back. We’re heading to the Los Coronados on our next visit to the boat, Dec 12-14. So I guess we’re doing quite well, at least in comparison to your dearth of wind-time! As for installing the Autohelm, it was lower on my priority list than other items, and since my brother was able to join us we didn’t really need the extra “hand” of an autopilot. So, it made the trip in the hold! And I sold it to a fellow Pearson 28 owner (my “inland boat”) in Chicago, got nearly the same price for it so I’m only out shipping cost. After our experience in 10’-14’ seas I think I’ll opt for as powerful an autopilot as I can get! In retrospect, the 4000 probably wouldn’t have been useful until we got into the smoother seas of the Santa Barbara Channel. Best wishes, John, and fair winds! Michael O’
More than likely
its the wires cos if you pull your halyards nice and snugg they do not seem to rattle. Yes it has been spoken about a few times. The solution I got off this forum was to place three zip ties, to form a triangle, every foot or so on the wires and re-draw the wires up the mast. Works perfect and very easy to do!
its the wires cos if you pull your halyards nice and snugg they do not seem to rattle. Yes it has been spoken about a few times. The solution I got off this forum was to place three zip ties, to form a triangle, every foot or so on the wires and re-draw the wires up the mast. Works perfect and very easy to do!
The electric wires inside our mast run through...
plastic conduit which separates them from the halyards. I would think that most all Hunter boats are designed this way. Otherwise, it would become a tangled mess. Terry
plastic conduit which separates them from the halyards. I would think that most all Hunter boats are designed this way. Otherwise, it would become a tangled mess. Terry
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