Hey all, I've gotten my '83 27h down to the gell coat, all blisters repaired, and the entire hull fared (see photo). We're ready to roll on the barrier coat. I was planning on going with the West System, but now am wondering about Interprotect by Interlux. I've searched the archives, and really don't see anything comparing the two. Anyone have a preference?? Any pros and cons I need to know about each? As always, thanks for the advise and thoughts. 3 weeks to launch! Kevin in Vermont
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The old fashion way....
I earned it. I sanded. Used a Dewalt 5" 8-hole orbital sander hooked up to a small shop vac, and about 20-30 80grit discs. Oh, and a whole bunch of hours doing the dirty. My boat (purchased last year) only had about 3-4 coats of VC-17 (probably why the blistering), so I wasn't batteling years of thick buildup. But, it was hard none the less. I began right after the boat was pulled in early October, and working each Saturday was done in early December (was out there in sub-freezing temps multiple times). After all the faring, needless to say..I'm quite tired with sanding. But, she looks good. Kevin
I earned it. I sanded. Used a Dewalt 5" 8-hole orbital sander hooked up to a small shop vac, and about 20-30 80grit discs. Oh, and a whole bunch of hours doing the dirty. My boat (purchased last year) only had about 3-4 coats of VC-17 (probably why the blistering), so I wasn't batteling years of thick buildup. But, it was hard none the less. I began right after the boat was pulled in early October, and working each Saturday was done in early December (was out there in sub-freezing temps multiple times). After all the faring, needless to say..I'm quite tired with sanding. But, she looks good. Kevin
Wow. Kevin,
IMHO, That kind of work is why money and the High School dropout were invented. Double wow.
IMHO, That kind of work is why money and the High School dropout were invented. Double wow.
Interprotec t more popular
around here, don't know why though. You might want to get some moisture meter readings on the hull before you splash, and again next winter if any further blistering, as this might give you some ideas for what to do next, if anything is needed. Also apply the barrier to the strut, after you brighten it up, reduces corrosion. Scott
around here, don't know why though. You might want to get some moisture meter readings on the hull before you splash, and again next winter if any further blistering, as this might give you some ideas for what to do next, if anything is needed. Also apply the barrier to the strut, after you brighten it up, reduces corrosion. Scott
Not sure, but a future question for you...
I own an 81' 27, I do not think she has EVER been brought down to the gelcoat. Just wondering how much difference it will make in regards to performance, feel, etc. We are considering doing it next year. (or should I say have it done next year.) Once you launch her, please inform us...
I own an 81' 27, I do not think she has EVER been brought down to the gelcoat. Just wondering how much difference it will make in regards to performance, feel, etc. We are considering doing it next year. (or should I say have it done next year.) Once you launch her, please inform us...
Sanding is the best way...
While I wish there were such a thing as a High School drop out that could deliver the same amount of TLC, to me sanding it myself was the best option. The greatest benefit of sanding, IMO, is blister identification. While visible blisters at pull out are easy to find, they also tell you that there are many more that you can't redily see. After the boat has been out of the water for a week or more, the blisters disapear. And, actually create a concave crater. While these concave blister remains aren't visable to the naked eye, or even the blind touch for that matter, they do appear via sanding. As you sand your bottom paint down to the gel coat, the last places your bottom paint hides and avoids the sander, is in these concave blister remains. Once at gelcoat, you'll find spots the color of your botom paint where the sander hasn't reached yet. You guessed it, these spots are blisters. Sand blasting and chemical strippers will not provide this sort of blister recognition. And, I dare say that someone else doing the sanding won't stop and mark the blisters as you go. So, yep, a bunch of hard work, but I'm also confident it was done right and complete. Kevin in VT
While I wish there were such a thing as a High School drop out that could deliver the same amount of TLC, to me sanding it myself was the best option. The greatest benefit of sanding, IMO, is blister identification. While visible blisters at pull out are easy to find, they also tell you that there are many more that you can't redily see. After the boat has been out of the water for a week or more, the blisters disapear. And, actually create a concave crater. While these concave blister remains aren't visable to the naked eye, or even the blind touch for that matter, they do appear via sanding. As you sand your bottom paint down to the gel coat, the last places your bottom paint hides and avoids the sander, is in these concave blister remains. Once at gelcoat, you'll find spots the color of your botom paint where the sander hasn't reached yet. You guessed it, these spots are blisters. Sand blasting and chemical strippers will not provide this sort of blister recognition. And, I dare say that someone else doing the sanding won't stop and mark the blisters as you go. So, yep, a bunch of hard work, but I'm also confident it was done right and complete. Kevin in VT
Performance after barrier coat..
I anticipate the performance to be quite enhanced, only because the lead keel had some sort of elctro induced corrosion that I ground out (my nastiest day) and filled with epoxy (we still can't figure out what caused the rust colored decay..perhaps a lead/steel mix??). I have a friend who put a barrier coat on his J24 and finds it to be equally race worthy. Kevin in VT
I anticipate the performance to be quite enhanced, only because the lead keel had some sort of elctro induced corrosion that I ground out (my nastiest day) and filled with epoxy (we still can't figure out what caused the rust colored decay..perhaps a lead/steel mix??). I have a friend who put a barrier coat on his J24 and finds it to be equally race worthy. Kevin in VT
Using Interlux
Kevin, Just so happens that I'm taking down the paint to the gel on my 285. Scraping with a 4" hook and then sanding down the rest. I'm scraping because most of the current paint is falling off in chips so scraping is the best way to remove the worst before sanding the rest. I'm going to barrier coat before the bottom paint and my "bottom man" at my marina recommended going all Interlux. 4 to 5 coats of Interprotect 2000 (I think) for the barrier and then the bottom. Claims that I should have no problems for years to come after that and he's done a lot of hull bottoms. Don't ya hate the way your fingers keep vibrating long after the sander is turned off!
Kevin, Just so happens that I'm taking down the paint to the gel on my 285. Scraping with a 4" hook and then sanding down the rest. I'm scraping because most of the current paint is falling off in chips so scraping is the best way to remove the worst before sanding the rest. I'm going to barrier coat before the bottom paint and my "bottom man" at my marina recommended going all Interlux. 4 to 5 coats of Interprotect 2000 (I think) for the barrier and then the bottom. Claims that I should have no problems for years to come after that and he's done a lot of hull bottoms. Don't ya hate the way your fingers keep vibrating long after the sander is turned off!
West System
Did this last year and went with West System. The two products are basically the same thing, cured epoxy. I chose West System because of the varieties of additives you can use (had some fairing to do on the keel, etc.) and because the times between coats was less restrictive. I couldn't set up my schedule to get all of the Interlux coats on with enough time in between. Interlux is probably easier to mix; you just add the catlyst to the gallon can. With West, it is best to buy the pumps, which are usable afterward.
Did this last year and went with West System. The two products are basically the same thing, cured epoxy. I chose West System because of the varieties of additives you can use (had some fairing to do on the keel, etc.) and because the times between coats was less restrictive. I couldn't set up my schedule to get all of the Interlux coats on with enough time in between. Interlux is probably easier to mix; you just add the catlyst to the gallon can. With West, it is best to buy the pumps, which are usable afterward.
Just used interlux myself
I just completed adding a barrier coat to my boat with Interlux's Interprotect 2000E, very easy to work with. It goes on nice, don't use a foam roller, use a 3/8 nap roller made for epoxy paints, foam rollers get eatenup and fall apart. The 3/8 nap will also allow for thicker coats. they recommend 2.5 mils per coat or 10 mils final thickness which was calculated to be 4-1/2 gallons for me. I did not use interlux bottom paint though, I used Petit's Trinidad SR. Jim
I just completed adding a barrier coat to my boat with Interlux's Interprotect 2000E, very easy to work with. It goes on nice, don't use a foam roller, use a 3/8 nap roller made for epoxy paints, foam rollers get eatenup and fall apart. The 3/8 nap will also allow for thicker coats. they recommend 2.5 mils per coat or 10 mils final thickness which was calculated to be 4-1/2 gallons for me. I did not use interlux bottom paint though, I used Petit's Trinidad SR. Jim
Went with West
Done! Finished the last 4 coats yesterday (well, except for the pads). I ended up going with West System since I was already doing a bunch of work with the same stuff. West worked great once the temperature rose above 65 degrees. In the mid-70's with 205 hardner, she ran really nice. However, up here in VT...in early May...mid-60's and 70's aren't always easy to come by. My first day was in the low 60's, with falling temps into the 50's. The lack of solvent in West made for a difficult time which caused extra work. Also, added time between coats to dry. I could only get 2 coats on my first day. The next morning I could still dent the coats with my nail, so a quick scuff and on went 2 more coats. But, now, had I used Interlux, I wouldn't have had to sand before adding coats 5 and up a few days later (Per Interlux, you can re-coat up to 2 weeks later without sanding). Luckily the temperatures rose to 80 degrees yesterday, so I (along with my wife mixing) was able to finish 4 more coats for a total of 8. West reccomends 5-6 (20mils) with additional coats if boat has been succeptable to blisters in the past. Figured with the sanding I should kick that number up a couple of coats. Next, the pads, a quick sanding and VC17. Kevin in VT
Done! Finished the last 4 coats yesterday (well, except for the pads). I ended up going with West System since I was already doing a bunch of work with the same stuff. West worked great once the temperature rose above 65 degrees. In the mid-70's with 205 hardner, she ran really nice. However, up here in VT...in early May...mid-60's and 70's aren't always easy to come by. My first day was in the low 60's, with falling temps into the 50's. The lack of solvent in West made for a difficult time which caused extra work. Also, added time between coats to dry. I could only get 2 coats on my first day. The next morning I could still dent the coats with my nail, so a quick scuff and on went 2 more coats. But, now, had I used Interlux, I wouldn't have had to sand before adding coats 5 and up a few days later (Per Interlux, you can re-coat up to 2 weeks later without sanding). Luckily the temperatures rose to 80 degrees yesterday, so I (along with my wife mixing) was able to finish 4 more coats for a total of 8. West reccomends 5-6 (20mils) with additional coats if boat has been succeptable to blisters in the past. Figured with the sanding I should kick that number up a couple of coats. Next, the pads, a quick sanding and VC17. Kevin in VT
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