- Status
Nope
I didn't even try. I decided to install a ceiling, strips of wood across fiberglass stringers. I DID grind through the foam (and a little fiberglass) where I placed the stringers, and that alone was probably about 25% of the surface area. It was a ton of work, hot dirty nasty stuff. I'd do it again though, as I think that was the best option. The link attached isn't my boat, but is similar to what I'm doing. (be sure to go through all of the pics in the project)
I didn't even try. I decided to install a ceiling, strips of wood across fiberglass stringers. I DID grind through the foam (and a little fiberglass) where I placed the stringers, and that alone was probably about 25% of the surface area. It was a ton of work, hot dirty nasty stuff. I'd do it again though, as I think that was the best option. The link attached isn't my boat, but is similar to what I'm doing. (be sure to go through all of the pics in the project)
thank you herb
thanks! I would love to see photos of your renovation. Also, I am not seeing any of the photos in the photo archive
thanks! I would love to see photos of your renovation. Also, I am not seeing any of the photos in the photo archive
Boat too stiff?
I'm redoing my interior also. After I removed the bulkhead/partitions, I removed the glassed stringer that holds the settee backs and replaced it with a full length 3x3 beam from the transom to the v-berth; two layers of biaxial cloth/mat combo over shaped foam. I layed up a layer of roving from v-berth to transom between the settees/floor pan and the hull/deck joint first. I had a lot of compression fractures at the main bulkhead on the port side. The starboard side has a countertop at the same elevation as the original beam and it butts right up to the hull giving good backup support when pounding through the chop. On the port side, the "hanging locker" section provides no support between the partitions and that's where I had a lot of deep spider cracks where the hull flexed around the partitions. After I had the beams glassed in, it was pointed out by a builder that a boat that is too stiff might break in an unreinforced area, that boats need to flex some. I am not sure if I want to tab the bulkheads firmly or allow for some give. The original tabbing was pretty thin, just some resin soaked mat that spanned about 1/2-3/4 inch from the hull to the bulkhead. I think if the tabbing had been more solid, the compression fractures around the bulkheads would have been worse.
I'm redoing my interior also. After I removed the bulkhead/partitions, I removed the glassed stringer that holds the settee backs and replaced it with a full length 3x3 beam from the transom to the v-berth; two layers of biaxial cloth/mat combo over shaped foam. I layed up a layer of roving from v-berth to transom between the settees/floor pan and the hull/deck joint first. I had a lot of compression fractures at the main bulkhead on the port side. The starboard side has a countertop at the same elevation as the original beam and it butts right up to the hull giving good backup support when pounding through the chop. On the port side, the "hanging locker" section provides no support between the partitions and that's where I had a lot of deep spider cracks where the hull flexed around the partitions. After I had the beams glassed in, it was pointed out by a builder that a boat that is too stiff might break in an unreinforced area, that boats need to flex some. I am not sure if I want to tab the bulkheads firmly or allow for some give. The original tabbing was pretty thin, just some resin soaked mat that spanned about 1/2-3/4 inch from the hull to the bulkhead. I think if the tabbing had been more solid, the compression fractures around the bulkheads would have been worse.
Not to hard
When we had our cushions redone , we figured we might as well pull off the rest of the peeling burlap carpeting.Other than the counter area it all came off very easy.We then used a wire brush similar to what one would use to clean a barbeque grill After vacumming up the dust we elected to use indoor/outdoor carpeting .This was a strictly personal decision.We used carpet adhesive. If time wasn't a factor we most assuredly would have installed cedar stripping.The color choices of the available carpeting allowed us to use a light blue to contrast the dark blue sunbella. We felt that on a smaller boat like ours that the lighter we could keep the inside the bigger it would seem.We have been in some boats of similar size that had a lot of dark wood and it seemed cavelike.
When we had our cushions redone , we figured we might as well pull off the rest of the peeling burlap carpeting.Other than the counter area it all came off very easy.We then used a wire brush similar to what one would use to clean a barbeque grill After vacumming up the dust we elected to use indoor/outdoor carpeting .This was a strictly personal decision.We used carpet adhesive. If time wasn't a factor we most assuredly would have installed cedar stripping.The color choices of the available carpeting allowed us to use a light blue to contrast the dark blue sunbella. We felt that on a smaller boat like ours that the lighter we could keep the inside the bigger it would seem.We have been in some boats of similar size that had a lot of dark wood and it seemed cavelike.
- Status