Interior Woodworking

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May 23, 2004
3,319
I'm in the market as were . Colonial Beach
I am thinking about varnishing the interior of my Catalina 30. The interior is currently in descent shape with teak oil. Would I have to sand to bare wood before varnishing? The oiled wood seems dry and the oil seems darker than the oil I had used on my last boat. If I end up having to sand it I will stick with teak oil!
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,336
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Went through the same thought process

and found that teak oil keeps the interior woodwork very nice on our C34. In fact, I like it better than varnish, less work, softer look, no shine (unless you're thinking of going with a 'not-shiny'varnish -- in which case, why bother with all the work when teak oil will do the same)?
 
Jun 2, 2004
1,438
Oday 25 pittsburgh
Bad, have you looked into Penofin?

I heard about it here about two years ago. You can use it inside or out. It has good uv and it builds. You can use multiple coats to build the sheen. I am using it on my boat and also ipe and mohogany decks. The first time you use it, it lasts about six months then after another application, I am told it will last for 2 years. what I have applied is about 18 months old. It comes in different formulas. Clear, and exotic wood are the two I know of. The exotic wood formula brings teak, mohogany and ipe right up to a rich full color. r.w.landau
 
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Rob

rethink the oil for interior

I found that the teak oil attracts dirt and dust. Your better off going with a varnish or cetol...do it once and never think about it again. The oil only last so long aside from it getting dirty. Rob
 
J

jr

depends on how much time you have!

I varnished by entire interior on my C-30. If you have an entire winter with nothing to do then go for it, but it is a LONG process. My interior was oiled and I had to take all the oil off (either with teak cleaner or my sanding) and then varnish. With 2 of us working every weekend in the winter it still took a very long time. The results were great though. Check out my boat pictures at the link below. There are still 2 Bulkheads I have to do because I replaced both of the main ones over the winter too.
 
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John/Illinois

A "Grain" of Truth

I have a 1987 and found the interior wood to be too dark and with little or no grain showing. I was especially concerned with the prospect of taking tha ladder apart to sand and re-finish. What I found was very encouraging. I first used a fine sand paper to prep the surface and remove any obvious stains. I then used a generous coating of teak oil and let it sit over night. Yes, this made it even darker, however, to remove the sticky surface material, I used micro-fiber towles to hand rub the surface. This not only removed that dust-collecting oil, but removed a combination of dirt and old stain as the micro fiber pulled all the nasty stuff away leaving a lighter finish that revealed a prominant grain and a tack-free satin surface. I considered the ladder to be the hardest surface and most dull ( drab brown ) of all the interior surfaces. It is now worthy of the fine wood that went into the original construction. I plan to use this process for all interior trim. The more aggrresive your rub, the lighter the wood appeares. Hope this helps.
 
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Rob Morton

Interior finish

I finished the entire inside of our h23 with helmsman spahr urethane. I really like the look and its easy to clean. To get all the oil off just wipe it down with acetone or MEK. I like acetone better. Make sure its well ventalated! Then I just did a light sand, another wipe down with acetone and applied the urethane. I went with this because it can be used in or outside. I figured I'd never have to do it again. It changed the whole feel of the inside. Anytime you finish teak with other than oil you should wipe it with acetone to get the oils off the surface and you will get a better bond. It does take awhile. It took me all winter working a couple hours twice per week. Rob Morton S/V Euphoria
 
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Pete

Rub-a-dub-dub

Thinking back to the time when I did a lot of amateur woodworking, I remember how attractive a hand-rubbed oil finish could be. To achieve the maximum effect, it takes a bit of doing (a lot like varnish in that regard), but the end result was always well worth the effort. The only difference with doing it on a boat, I guess, would be that most of the surfaces are vertical, so you have to be on constant guard against runs and drips when applying a generous coat of oil to the teak. Pete s/v EmmieLou (Oday 322) Little Silver, NJ
 
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AXEL

I'm in the process

I started varnishing the interrior of my C30 several years ago. I do a little each year. I remove as much teak as possible from the boat. I use 2 part teak cleaner to strip off the old oil and stain. Then I sand. Then apply the varnish, first coat is thinner as a primer. Them more coats, wet sand, more coats, wet sand. I usually apply 5 - 6 coats. It looks great but is a lot of work.
 
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steve rainey

Interior

Hunter 30 1978...I used helmsman spahr urethane also. Love the look. I refinished the whole interior with veneer therefore could not put oil on it otherwise it would soak in and break down the glue. Love the shinny look..The teak parts finished very dark the mag veneer, lite. got a nice two tone look I like..
 

CalebD

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Jun 27, 2006
1,479
Tartan 27' 1967 Nyack, NY
Many opinions, many varinishes to choose from

Varnish has been around for quite a long time. It was first made with tree sap or amber and something like linseed oil. Todays varnish is quite similar in that linseed oil is still used but other oils and addititives are now included. Oiling wood makes it look beautiful, especially teak. Teak oil contains linseed oil among others. The point is that you do not have to sand down to raw wood before applying a new varnish coat as the oil residue is somewhat, if not completely, compatible with varnish. In fact, I use teak oil before varnishing. I recommend a light sanding with a fine grade sandpaper and then use Acetone to wipe the wood surface clean before putting on the varnish coats. Some people choose to use Cetol on their teak as it is supposed to be more maintenance free. Cetol is also NOT varnish and will not give the same warmth and luster (some say it adds a green or dark tint to the wood). I have found that for our interior cabin wood that the varnish holds up quite well. It is the exterior varnish coated teak that is the real maintenance nightmare. Just another opinion and opinions are like a$$holes and everyone has one.
 
Sep 19, 2006
643
SCHOCK santana27' lake pleasant,az
oil or varnish

im a wood worker and the two dont mix well the wood will need to be stripped then varnished or to slean up the existing teak oil you could thin it50/50 with min spirits and wipe it down with that. that does two things cleansthe original finish then seals it making it look new agai. you could use linseed oil as well
 
F

Fred

Everybody has an opinion, but read between the

lines and the common thread is that good surface prep makes a good finish. Oil based varnish will mix and stick to an oil base finish. You can mix linseed oil, thinner, oil based varnish, tung oil, pine tar, Japan drier, and even oil based paint in all kinds of concoctions. If you like an oil finish but you want shine, add tung oil or 10% varnish to your teak oil. Don't be afraid to try different mixtures (on the back of the head door or the bottom of the steps first) Pete Culler's book Skiffs and Schooners has a chapter - Paint, Oils, and Goo that talks about what and how to mix. Try wet sanding with 50/50 oil and varnish on 400 grit wet and dry paper, then rub it until the rag is warm from the friction. Change rags often. Now that's a fine finish.
 
F

Fred

There are good products out there, but

there are also finishes that are the result of hundreds of years of knowlege acquired by traditional wood workers. I am not as impressed by the dollars companies spend on advertising as I am by actual experience. Too often the advertisers tell you their product is a substitute for the time consuming process called "do it right". The product de jour may be the one your previous owner used, Tony. There are several "varnish restore" products on the market that are mostly acetone, which will sort of dissolve old varnish and oil so you can mush them together with a rag. It's a cheap (except for the price of the product) trick that looks good for a few months. More if you keep wiping the stuff on. Pete Culler didn't just fall off the turnip truck. He designed and built boats for about 40 years before he wrote Skiffs and Schooners. He also built and lived aboard his own designs for longer than most of us have been on the planet. When I was manager of the school of wooden boatbuilding here on Gabriola Island (link below) our head instructor, who trained in his dad's boat shop as a shipwright in England and had his journeyman's papers from a guild that built ships to fight the Spanish armada, used what he called 1-2-3 to make an interior varnish finish that was deep and durable. first coat 3 parts thinner, 2 parts boiled linseed, 1 part varnish (good quality exterior varnish, not spar varnish. It doesn't have to say marine if it's from a reputable company, just exterior) wipe it on with a rag, let it set for a while, wipe off everything you can. This coat seals the wood. Second coat Sand with 220 grit. wipe all the dust off. 1 part thinner, 1 part boiled linseed, 1 part varnish wipe it on with a rag, let it set a bit. wipe it off. The surface will be a bit shiny like a rubbed oil finish. A lot of us would stop here. Sand with 220 grit, then build up the varnish. We would thin the first three coats maybe 10%. Brush it on, then come back with an almost dry brush and brush it out. Let it dry. Really dry! sand lightly with 220 grit. Wipe all the dust off with a clean rag, then wipe with a rag slightly damp with thinner, let it dry, and repeat 7 to 10 times. maybe 400 or 500 grit for the last few coats. Clean and wipe down everything you can reach in between coats. let the dust settle. No fans or heaters to stir up the air. Dust in the air is the enemy of a really smooth surface. Varnish will last for a long time inside. It's the UV that shines through the varnish and breaks down the surface of the wood that makes varnish come loose. Spar varnish has additives to resist chafe from lines and rigging on the mast. Good stuff, but it's harder to get a deep gloss because of the anti chafe additives. Having said all that, most folks wouldn't notice the difference between spar and exterior varnish, and most folks will be happy with a couple of coats of whatever the merchants are pushing this year, sanded with 120 grit between coats.
 
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