Ok, Do I have to use Captains Varnish and all the other MARINE GRADE stuff when I varnish the interior cabin? If not what do other use?
Interior Varnish
- Thread starter Traumaguard
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Satin finish
Finish, whether interior or exterior, demands personal taste. That being said, the interior finish you choose will not be subject to a fraction of environmental rigors the exterior will - so choose what you like and wipe it down with a wet cloth. Whatever you choose will last a long time! Best, Trevor
Finish, whether interior or exterior, demands personal taste. That being said, the interior finish you choose will not be subject to a fraction of environmental rigors the exterior will - so choose what you like and wipe it down with a wet cloth. Whatever you choose will last a long time! Best, Trevor
Satin varnishes
As another poster listed if sections of the interior are exposed to unfiltered sunlight (companionway, hatch frames, etc. you should consider to use an exterior grade UV protected varnish in these areas. Most exterior varnishes are usually 'gloss' products that can be made 'satin' finish or any combination between 'satin' and gloss by allowing to dry thoroughly or cure then 'hand rubbing' with a mixture of rottenstone, pumice and oil. For interior surfaces subject to wear (table tops, etc.) consider to use a 'bar top' varnish as marine grades of varnish are usually soft/flexible (easily marred/dented) 'spar' varnish. Bar-top varnish, rottenstone, pumice are available from most 'old fashioned' paint stores. BTW for the sole and companionway steps, etc. consider to use "ultimate sole' or find out what they are using on the gym floor at your local high school, etc. .... for better non-slip surfaces - these varnishes usually have some sort of 'soft polymer' added for extra foot traction.
As another poster listed if sections of the interior are exposed to unfiltered sunlight (companionway, hatch frames, etc. you should consider to use an exterior grade UV protected varnish in these areas. Most exterior varnishes are usually 'gloss' products that can be made 'satin' finish or any combination between 'satin' and gloss by allowing to dry thoroughly or cure then 'hand rubbing' with a mixture of rottenstone, pumice and oil. For interior surfaces subject to wear (table tops, etc.) consider to use a 'bar top' varnish as marine grades of varnish are usually soft/flexible (easily marred/dented) 'spar' varnish. Bar-top varnish, rottenstone, pumice are available from most 'old fashioned' paint stores. BTW for the sole and companionway steps, etc. consider to use "ultimate sole' or find out what they are using on the gym floor at your local high school, etc. .... for better non-slip surfaces - these varnishes usually have some sort of 'soft polymer' added for extra foot traction.
Time for "Home Depot Marine"
I have also come up with great results using Helmsman varnish, and it's a lot cheaper than the "marin specialty" varnishes.
I have also come up with great results using Helmsman varnish, and it's a lot cheaper than the "marin specialty" varnishes.
Satin vs. Gloss
Also a matter of taste. My current boat is semi-gloss, but the table and chart table are satin. They both are just too much area for gloss and reflect every bit of dust, fingerprints, etc. when so finished. The semi-gloss is a good compromise tho. On my prior boat, I finished all the surfaces with satin and then did all the fiddles and edge mouldings in gloss. Looked good. In any case, as Trevor said, it's a lot less upkeep after you go through the pain of doing it. RD
Also a matter of taste. My current boat is semi-gloss, but the table and chart table are satin. They both are just too much area for gloss and reflect every bit of dust, fingerprints, etc. when so finished. The semi-gloss is a good compromise tho. On my prior boat, I finished all the surfaces with satin and then did all the fiddles and edge mouldings in gloss. Looked good. In any case, as Trevor said, it's a lot less upkeep after you go through the pain of doing it. RD
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