Interior Teak Maintenance
- Thread starter Outeast
- Start date
I don't know anything about orange oil, but bees wax is an ancient wood finish that does a descent job of providing a layer of protection from wear on the wood and buffs out beautifully. It never dries completely and surface scratches are easy to get rid of.
I recommend bees wax as a top coat on top of your regular hard finish. It should work well on teak but I've rarely seen it used by itself. The buffing process warms it so it will penetrate; on top of boiled linseed oil or tung oil. Maybe that is what the orange oil is for, to help it penetrate the wood.
- Will (Dragonfly)
Cascade dish-washing gel is great for cleaning teak, contains oxalic acid just like the expensive teak cleaners but only need a tbs or 2 in a quart of warm water, cleans it gently, use soft brush , rinse with water, repeat as needed let dry and then apply your oil of choice.
https://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?1575
Does this really work well over previously varnished teak?
a warning from a long time woodworker. If you use a brush, make DAMNED sure it's a soft one, and you brush across the grain. Teak soft grain is quite soft compared to the hard parts- the raised grain you often see on old teak is from the soft parts wearing away, leaving the ridges. better to use a scotch bright pad
What is the finish you are looking for, bright or oiled?
I haven't worked with teak beyond applying teak oil to the bare teak trim on our boat when I was a kid, so I'm very interested in reading Charlie's response. I didn't know the soft grain of teak was so soft a stiff brush would affect it. How interesting.
- Will (Dragonfly)
Reading the useful responses to the OP on this thread, glad that I have my boat on the West Coast. Where humidity, even allowing that I am berthed on salt water for 365 days per year, is low enough that the interior doesn't need much more annual maintenance than say like the living room in my house.
About 2009, a couple of years after I bought my 1980 built boat, I used Industrial Purple to remove 29 years accumulation of grime and teak/lemon oil or whatever from the interior teak veneer and the solid teak trim pieces. Then applied a rub of polyurethane penetrating oil. Haven't done a thing to it since. After 10 years, I am sure that the appearance has degraded a bit. But still a wonderful natural cherry red (I think Hunter stained the teak). And no build-up of grime at all.
About 2009, a couple of years after I bought my 1980 built boat, I used Industrial Purple to remove 29 years accumulation of grime and teak/lemon oil or whatever from the interior teak veneer and the solid teak trim pieces. Then applied a rub of polyurethane penetrating oil. Haven't done a thing to it since. After 10 years, I am sure that the appearance has degraded a bit. But still a wonderful natural cherry red (I think Hunter stained the teak). And no build-up of grime at all.
We removed a lot of dirt and old oil from the p. o. and then refinished our interior surfaces.
We cleaned and restored the teak surfaces with Te-Ka A and B. Sanded gently with some 220, and applied thinned "Captain's varnish" - 5 coats. I sanded with 400 grit between coats.
This is a bit of work, but it's a once in a lifetime sort of chore. We love the looks of the natural golden teak.
If you wish I have some pix in my blog over at the Ericsonyachts.org site, and can post a link.
We cleaned and restored the teak surfaces with Te-Ka A and B. Sanded gently with some 220, and applied thinned "Captain's varnish" - 5 coats. I sanded with 400 grit between coats.
This is a bit of work, but it's a once in a lifetime sort of chore. We love the looks of the natural golden teak.
If you wish I have some pix in my blog over at the Ericsonyachts.org site, and can post a link.
