I want to freshen up the interior teak on my 1983 Hunter. It's not in terrible condition but could use a little TLC. I think the Head Mistress may have recently suggested Murphys Oil but can't remember where I read that. Suggestions please.
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Jim Legere
Liquid Gold
Scotts Liquid Gold is what we have used with good success on our boats. Apply a couple of times a year to keep everything looking fresh.
Scotts Liquid Gold is what we have used with good success on our boats. Apply a couple of times a year to keep everything looking fresh.
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Gary A.
Tung Oil
A friend just told me that he lightly sanded his interior wood, then cleaned up left-over original oil with acetone. Then he treated the wood with 6 coats of tung oil. Sounds like a lot of work, but from the photos it looks well worth it. I'm thinking of trying the same on a small bit of our interior to see how it will turn out. We have a 1983 Hunter 34 and the interior wood is dark and dull now. Any thoughts on this approach?
A friend just told me that he lightly sanded his interior wood, then cleaned up left-over original oil with acetone. Then he treated the wood with 6 coats of tung oil. Sounds like a lot of work, but from the photos it looks well worth it. I'm thinking of trying the same on a small bit of our interior to see how it will turn out. We have a 1983 Hunter 34 and the interior wood is dark and dull now. Any thoughts on this approach?
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Sam Lust
Oil??
Tung oil gives a nice satin sort of glow that lasts a couple of weeks. You get to re-oil as often as you like. The portions of my interior that I've polyurethaned so far look just just great after a full season with no up-keep. Gives the wood a deep bright look. I'm pleased.
Tung oil gives a nice satin sort of glow that lasts a couple of weeks. You get to re-oil as often as you like. The portions of my interior that I've polyurethaned so far look just just great after a full season with no up-keep. Gives the wood a deep bright look. I'm pleased.
Not the same Tung oil I have used!
Tung Oil is used on gun stocks. It is a very hard finish. I have used it on several guns over the years and it is a satin finish which is harder than vanish. Once we do them they look that way for years to come (that is my experience). I would agree that it is probably going to darken the wood. Most gun stocks are walnut so it is difficult to tell.
Tung Oil is used on gun stocks. It is a very hard finish. I have used it on several guns over the years and it is a satin finish which is harder than vanish. Once we do them they look that way for years to come (that is my experience). I would agree that it is probably going to darken the wood. Most gun stocks are walnut so it is difficult to tell.
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Les Blackwell
Daley's SeaFin
In recent years, Hunter has been using a product called SeaFin on their interior teak. When I purchased my H380 in 1999, I received a small kit which included some SeaFin as well as some other stuff for maintainance. Recently, I was in Seattle and stopped at Daleys on Stoneway, near Lake Union. It was not as large as I thought it might be, but the people inside were very helpful. In response to my inquery as to how to take care of my interior teak, they told me to wipe (I don't have to brush it on) on some SeaFin, wait fifteen minutes and then wipe it off. You don't have to sand it, however, if you want an extra smooth service, you can sand with a wet/dry 440 grit paper--while it is on the teak wet. Then wipe. One or two coats should do the job. Do not use a heavier grit. They have a new product called FloorFin that they are now suggesting for the cabin soles. It is a little harder and is more non-skid in nature. But they also said that SeaFin would work on the cabin sole as well. They emphasized that light sanding was all that you should do since it is a laminated panal. Daleys does have a web site and you can find it through Google. I've used it on other boats and think it is top notch. And it is easy to use as well as inexpensive. Les Blackwell S/V Trumpeter Hunter 380
In recent years, Hunter has been using a product called SeaFin on their interior teak. When I purchased my H380 in 1999, I received a small kit which included some SeaFin as well as some other stuff for maintainance. Recently, I was in Seattle and stopped at Daleys on Stoneway, near Lake Union. It was not as large as I thought it might be, but the people inside were very helpful. In response to my inquery as to how to take care of my interior teak, they told me to wipe (I don't have to brush it on) on some SeaFin, wait fifteen minutes and then wipe it off. You don't have to sand it, however, if you want an extra smooth service, you can sand with a wet/dry 440 grit paper--while it is on the teak wet. Then wipe. One or two coats should do the job. Do not use a heavier grit. They have a new product called FloorFin that they are now suggesting for the cabin soles. It is a little harder and is more non-skid in nature. But they also said that SeaFin would work on the cabin sole as well. They emphasized that light sanding was all that you should do since it is a laminated panal. Daleys does have a web site and you can find it through Google. I've used it on other boats and think it is top notch. And it is easy to use as well as inexpensive. Les Blackwell S/V Trumpeter Hunter 380
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Ed Schenck
When and which?
I have followed threads regarding teak finish over the years with interest. The oil versus varnish question has always puzzled me. And it must be because different models of different years were not finished the same at the factory. My own 1979 H37C has a very glossy varnish finish. It has held up well and looks very good. I have to believe that it came from the factory that way. And I assume that I would never be able to do anything but lightly sand and revarnish? On the other hand there is a 1984 H37C in my marina(for sale) that has a very natural teak look. And it is a rich look also. Must be the "oil variety".
I have followed threads regarding teak finish over the years with interest. The oil versus varnish question has always puzzled me. And it must be because different models of different years were not finished the same at the factory. My own 1979 H37C has a very glossy varnish finish. It has held up well and looks very good. I have to believe that it came from the factory that way. And I assume that I would never be able to do anything but lightly sand and revarnish? On the other hand there is a 1984 H37C in my marina(for sale) that has a very natural teak look. And it is a rich look also. Must be the "oil variety".
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Edward Kennedy
Varnish time
I'm starting to varnish the teak in my 1981 37 cutter (along with all the other projects). I pulled the table out and started working on it, and the difference from the old, dirty oil and the new polyurathane is amazing! My current procedure is to first strip the oil with Minwax refinisher, sand with 150 grit paper, wipe with acetone to be sure there is no wax left on the wood (use gloves and a resparator with the acetone), and varnish with Interlux interior marine satin polyurathane. As always sand between coats. One new trick!! If you want a glossy finish, use satin varnish, then finish by wet sanding with 1500 grit paper to get the dust spots off, then polish with rubbing compound. This will give a perfect rubbed gloss on the flat surfaces, but the nicks, pores, and hard to reach areas will still have a satin finish and blend in nicely.
I'm starting to varnish the teak in my 1981 37 cutter (along with all the other projects). I pulled the table out and started working on it, and the difference from the old, dirty oil and the new polyurathane is amazing! My current procedure is to first strip the oil with Minwax refinisher, sand with 150 grit paper, wipe with acetone to be sure there is no wax left on the wood (use gloves and a resparator with the acetone), and varnish with Interlux interior marine satin polyurathane. As always sand between coats. One new trick!! If you want a glossy finish, use satin varnish, then finish by wet sanding with 1500 grit paper to get the dust spots off, then polish with rubbing compound. This will give a perfect rubbed gloss on the flat surfaces, but the nicks, pores, and hard to reach areas will still have a satin finish and blend in nicely.
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Greg aboard 'BlueBerry'
Fine Fin-ish
I recently acquired an '88 L37 and used Daley's seafin to redo the entire interior and the results were amazing. Simple to use, no "blending" problems and easy to maintain afterwards. I bought a gallon and love it!
I recently acquired an '88 L37 and used Daley's seafin to redo the entire interior and the results were amazing. Simple to use, no "blending" problems and easy to maintain afterwards. I bought a gallon and love it!
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Ed Schenck
For Mr. Kennedy.
It was not clear(pun?) from your post, was your interior NOT varnished but now it is? I think the 1981 H37Cs that I have seen have more of a natural teak look, not varnished. I have only been aboard one other 1979 like mine and cannot remember if it had a varnished interior. Picture in link below is a 1980. It does not have the high gloss that mine has. Varnishing is definitely an art. I also have my table at home and the finish WAS immaculate. There was a hint of mildew on the underside so I thought I would sand and add a few coats to the entire table. I am having so much trouble getting a quality finish. Looks great from three feet away. Only good thing? Nothing is going to slide around on it!
It was not clear(pun?) from your post, was your interior NOT varnished but now it is? I think the 1981 H37Cs that I have seen have more of a natural teak look, not varnished. I have only been aboard one other 1979 like mine and cannot remember if it had a varnished interior. Picture in link below is a 1980. It does not have the high gloss that mine has. Varnishing is definitely an art. I also have my table at home and the finish WAS immaculate. There was a hint of mildew on the underside so I thought I would sand and add a few coats to the entire table. I am having so much trouble getting a quality finish. Looks great from three feet away. Only good thing? Nothing is going to slide around on it!
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Don Bodemann
Just don't paint it!!
If you ask 15 different sailors what they use on their wood, I suspect you'll get 15 different answers....and they all think theirs is wonderful. Any time you give your teak some attention, you will rekindle your appreciation and affection for your wood and all the charm it adds to your vessel. For a real objective answer, we need to compare or hear from someone who has compared different finishes, preferably simultaneously, under the same conditions, on the same piece of wood, etc. For this I usually look to Practical Sailor....Not trying to be argumentative, I love wood no matter what you do to it.....well there was this C-22 that I painstakingly sanded and varnished all the interior teak and I thought it all a beauty to behold...sold the boat and the new owner PAINTED IT BROWN!!!
If you ask 15 different sailors what they use on their wood, I suspect you'll get 15 different answers....and they all think theirs is wonderful. Any time you give your teak some attention, you will rekindle your appreciation and affection for your wood and all the charm it adds to your vessel. For a real objective answer, we need to compare or hear from someone who has compared different finishes, preferably simultaneously, under the same conditions, on the same piece of wood, etc. For this I usually look to Practical Sailor....Not trying to be argumentative, I love wood no matter what you do to it.....well there was this C-22 that I painstakingly sanded and varnished all the interior teak and I thought it all a beauty to behold...sold the boat and the new owner PAINTED IT BROWN!!!
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