interior repairs for an oday 20

[ampersand]

In the process of restoring an Oday 20 (although winter has stalled major work), I realized the wall-papery substance on the interior has got to go. Unfortunately, the stuff appears to have other plans. Chunks have peeled off, to be sure, but it's nowhere near proper paint prep condition.

My assumption is that asking a question about interior paint would just be a shameful neglect of the search button, so instead i'll ask about prep. I have no idea what adhesive was used some thirty-odd years ago, nor do i have a clue about whatever solvents are appropriate/not harmful to the rather exposed fiberglass.

I would also like to prep the stern compartments for interior paint, not sure if the procedure would be any different there but worth asking.

any help would be much appreciated,

Tom

 

[jdratlif]

Check out the thread titled "old glue". It is only a couple of days old and should answer a lot of questions.

Good Luck

 

[jdratlif]

As far as surface prep for interior painting, I have heard of evenly spreading epoxy over the surface to be painted. Take a look a Marine 105. This seems to be a pretty popular marine epoxy. The idea behind this is the epoxy is compatible with more materials then paint is and it can be used to permanently seal the painting surface and used as a leveling agent. You let the epoxy cure and apply as many coats as you think are necessary. You can then paint the epoxy with a wide range of paints.

Good Luck

 

[Joe11688]

Check out a book by Michael Naujok entitled, "Fitting Out Your Boat." We have a copy in our city library and it's loaded with info on interior headliners, adhesives, with colored illustrations. You may be able to find it in your library or go through their inter-library loan system to draw it out. I have most of the Don Casey books on sailboat maintenance and repair, but I really believe that this book is worth owning.
Joe

 

[ampersand]

thank you for the replies!

@jdratlif: read the thread, and plan to take wholeheartedly the advice of Tim R. and "Start with the mildest checmicals first then work toward harsher". He recommended denatured (isopropyl?) alcohol, and others suggested "goo gone". I'm not sure exactly how soaking the surface in solvent can be accomplished on a nearly vertical surface...strips of fabric perhaps?

When you say Marine 105, i assume you meant the following product?
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...4&subdeptNum=10296&classNum=10297#showReviews

I'm not sure which hardener is most appropriate for the job, as far as viscosity is concerned. Also, there should be no need for fillers of any sort, correct? I'm not concerned with an absolutely smooth curve over the surface, just to seal everything off.

Ventilation will probably be accomplished by hooking up a dryer vent to the only vent (towards the bow) in the entire boat...seems like it makes sense pressure wise.

Should I be concerned about application temperature? The weather as of late has settled in the 20-30F range during the day.

@Trinkka: Sounds like the perfect book! i checked it out on amazon and will swing by the library asap.

 

[ampersand]

well. after the insane snowfall and early batch of spring rains, I knew it would be good sense to check the integrity of the array of multiple tarps etc sheltering the boat from the elements.

Due to a faulty (flat out severed) cockpit drain, the boat now has this wonderful feature of dumping all water straight into the cabin, which is...less than ideal.

Using buckets and a wet vac, upwards of ten gallons have been removed, or at least enough weight such that the boat and trailer rotated about the axle towards the bow to its original setting.

There is a hole roughly adjacent to the now defunct drain hose which seems like an excellent candidate for the bilge pump (absent at purchase). The level of water is now below that at which the wet vac is useful (i'd say about 1/8") but definitely enough to cause concern.

thinking that it would be prudent to rapidly increase the airflow (we're at about 60+ F) through the "channel", a leafblower was procured and put to work for about 45 minutes. It does not appear to have made a substantial difference in the water level, because upon removing the blower, the water creeps slowly (stern to bow) back to its previous height.

The stern compartments had the highest water levels (~4" w/ tilt) but have since been reduced to less than 1/8". Currently, there are two large fans going at full tilt towards the compartments, and the starboard hatch (well, the only hatch) is fully open.

I am deeply concerned.

The water and heat now have the potential to exacerbate existing problems with mold, and the level of debris (styrofoam pellets, paint flecks, and whatever crap ages of presumably small rodent habitation have accrued, including pump-jamming nutshells) is horrendous. Mind you, this is well before a concerted effort to remove *any* paint in the pre-epoxy scrubdown.

My presumptions surrounding the appropriate actions are something like the following:

1) increase airflow to all parts of the boat
2) reduce all tail-ends of water with a sponge (and the corresponding bucket brigade)
3) let the sun/heat dry the boat
4) scrub everything down and (effectively) start from scratch

A few questions, notwithstanding any glaring errors made in the above conclusions:

1) Is there any concern about the toxicity of the interior paint beyond its particulate nature? If the mixture includes heavy metals, now seems like the time to ask.

2) What is the best sort of "scrub brush" material to remove the peeling paint bits and glue (with the solutions recommended from previous posts) without damaging the underlying glass?

3) I suspect that the styrofoam has been degraded beyond repair, and now serves only as a reservoir of moisture and mold. Is the task of replacing the foam beneath the cockpit with new material feasible for an individual?

Thank you for your time,
Thomas

 

[Looking4Wind]

Ampersand - sorry to hear of your problem. I have an new-to-me O'Day 20 I purchased in September that almost suffered the same fate. Shortly after getting it home I was cleaning the cabin one day and a huge thunderstorm came up dumping a ton of rain into the cockpit. I spotted that the water was draining into the cabin through the cockpit drain (which turned out to be a cracked thruhull) but was able to rectify problem before too much water got in.

I can't help with number 1 and 2, but with regards to the foam problem, I'm not sure what year your boat is, mine is a 79, but I would be concerned about the foam/mold forward not aft. My boat has styrofoam blocks for sure forward of the port sink and I'm guessing under the Vbirth and icebox. The problem is these areas aren't very accessible - I think the older O'Day 20s may have a different set up forward so perhaps this is not the case in your boat.

If so I would try to get all the water aft, can you raise the bow by raising the trailer? I think the water will be easier to deal with aft. Then you can get your blower or fans in perhaps under the sink to dry out the forward areas.

Also perhaps a more powerful shop vac would help remove the water? I'm not sure what model I have but I use it to remove rainwater that collects on our pool cover and it will suck water dry from a flat surface no matter how low the depth.

Mark

 

[ampersand]

...I would be concerned about the foam/mold forward not aft. My boat has styrofoam blocks for sure forward of the port sink and I'm guessing under the Vbirth and icebox. The problem is these areas aren't very accessible - I think the older O'Day 20s may have a different set up forward so perhaps this is not the case in your boat.

For some peculiar reason (not in keeping with the aft design), the only remotely compartmentalized section of the boat is exactly in that area. While I've pulled out some strips of foam earlier in the season from beneath the gunwales (those 2x1' wooden panels), I have no idea how to begin to access the Vbirth.

As for tilting the boat and wetvacing, it's been a nearly continuous process, weather permitting.

The plywood panel in the (evidently false) bottom of the only stern hatch is basically shot, but I am not sure how to remove and replace this piece, especially if it is structural. A narrow strip of glass appears to be all that hold it to the hull.

Can anyone provide me with some details about the "groove" that the bilge pump was meant to sit in? I'm not sure what the technical name for this feature is, but I need to be able to control the flow of the remaining water, as well as design an appropriate pump/aeration system.

In the realm of good news, the new parts for the cockpit drain came in, so the system should be able to avoid this kind of failure in the future. (holding my breath, pre installation)

Thank you,
Thomas

 

[emergpa1]

As far as surface prep for interior painting, I have heard of evenly spreading epoxy over the surface to be painted. Take a look a Marine 105. This seems to be a pretty popular marine epoxy. The idea behind this is the epoxy is compatible with more materials then paint is and it can be used to permanently seal the painting surface and used as a leveling agent. You let the epoxy cure and apply as many coats as you think are necessary. You can then paint the epoxy with a wide range of paints.

Good Luck

I painted over epoxy several times and just not have had good luck. I think if u can take down the surface as I did u can do waht I did in a few areas and use the porch paint from lowes. Let me see if I can attach some pix and links that might expound on this point without reinventing the wheel
Ok, so I guess the pix show what I used to take off the goo, the area behind the sink I painted, and part of the tear out. Also look up the threads on this forum regarding cabin liners

 

[ampersand]

Fantastic results on the boat today! April has warmed up quite nicely, and the moisture levels are at their lowest so far.

The shop vac has been a truly wondrous device. The standing water has been completely reduced, and the decades worth of rodent-clutter/styrofoam decay were removed in a few easy passes. All accessible foam strips (under the cabin liner by the gunwales) have been removed, and no longer act like sponges for water.

The loosest paint has been removed with mild friction from the starboard stern compartment, and a more thorough attack is in store later this week. Power tools, with moderation, do wonderful things.

Work on the trailer continues, and the hubs etc seem to be in great shape.

The bulk of the work now relies on mostly brute force elbow grease, glue removal and further cleaning.

There are a few questions i'd like to submit, with the help of some photos.

1) In the compartment molded into the stern side of the sink, the previous owner had stowed several metal parts which i have so far left unidentified.
Of the two small plastic bags in this group (see pic), one is labeled "cotter rings" while the other contains two short pins with a small hold drilled into each end.

2) On the bow side of sink (and in the adjacent position) are a small piece of plywood that has suffered severe de-lamination. Is it safe to remove these in order to replace them, or are they weight bearing and untouchable?

3) Under the sink itself, all tubing is clearly exposed (source and drain). I am fairly certain that regulations (and common sense) require me to have some form of a greywater holding tank, but how can i remove the tube without damaging the faucet, and how should I plug up the hole it exits through the hull?

4) Recently took a look the rudder and tiller again (happily rediscovered it is the kickup model), but the setup needs some work. The mahogany(? v. fine grain) rudder has lost its paint and bears some decay and minor cracks, clustered around the bottom. The tiller seems to have some cracks beginning near the "fork" but is in otherwise fine shape save some aesthetic lack of varnish etc. The steel cable seems to be intact, but i have not verified the structure.
-for the rudder, I'm thinking a quick sanding, some filler/epoxy and a good paint should do the trick?
-for the tiller, at least new varnish, not really sure how much to worry about structural weaknesses?

5) In the very bow section of the v-birth (forgive my potential massacre of terminology), there is a curious little metal loop to which was attached a line of about 30'. As there are no holes in the deck remotely near this apparatus, I am completely boggled as to its function.

Phew. okay.

As for the surface prep, my thinking is somewhat along the following lines:
-using light abrasives on "whichever-power-tool-has-triangular-shaped-sanding-pads", the sections of the fiberglass with just paint will be prepped. I'm thinking in the "scotch brite" line of hardness. This method will also be used to take a crack at the wallpaper/glue mess initially.

If this doesn't do the job for either surface, I'm thinking a move to "low end" solvents is appropriate (soapy water, isopropyl alc, etc). If THIS fails to do the trick, am i better off increasing the hardness of the abrasive (to say a brass brush) or increasing the solvent firepower, so to speak?

Thank you for your time,
Thomas