Has anyone noticed if their headstay tends to "bump up" against the bow pulpit while underway? (see photo) On my Hunter 36 the headstay has about 1 1/2 inch clearance from the lower rail of the bow pulpit while at rest, and underway the headstay will pull forward and hits the rail. This would tend to put undo stress on the stay as the toggle is not allowed to do its job. Judging by where the bow pulpit is attached to the toe rail, it looks like it may be possible to move it forward by about three inches, utilizing half of the present mounting holes and drilling out half for the new ones. This would also provide more room for the drum of the roller furling gear, which in my case is the original CDI furler. I am looking into replacing the old CDI furler with the newer design, FF9, but as it tuns out the new ones are mounted on the bottom end of the turnbuckle, which places the drum very close to the deck and would not allow room for the anchor rode, etc. I need to raise the attachment point with a chain plate extension (and shorten the headstay) but the same problem exists with interference with the bottom rail of the bow pulpit. I would appreciate any thoughts on this with anyone having a Hunter 36, but I also can imagine the same problem may exist in some of the H-37C. Anyone?
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Was this delivered from the factory?
Ernie: I did not think that these boats came with factory reefing systems on them. You may want to shop around for a more robust furler and see what the differences are between the designs. They sell the Spin-tec furlers on this website and they are much more robust and have a very care free design. You will need to evaluate each of the different furlers to see which ones would work best for your boat.
Ernie: I did not think that these boats came with factory reefing systems on them. You may want to shop around for a more robust furler and see what the differences are between the designs. They sell the Spin-tec furlers on this website and they are much more robust and have a very care free design. You will need to evaluate each of the different furlers to see which ones would work best for your boat.
Curious problem
I was curious about this problem because my pulpit far clears my headstay (Hunter 31). I looked at the Hunter 36 photos on this web site and see that yours is indeed a common problem. The New Orleans boat appears to have cut off their lower rail. The "Sea Sharp" has a close proximity to the rail. Don't see this problem with the 37s. Their pulpit seems to extend beyond the bow.
I was curious about this problem because my pulpit far clears my headstay (Hunter 31). I looked at the Hunter 36 photos on this web site and see that yours is indeed a common problem. The New Orleans boat appears to have cut off their lower rail. The "Sea Sharp" has a close proximity to the rail. Don't see this problem with the 37s. Their pulpit seems to extend beyond the bow.
Yes, this boat came equipeed with the CDI
furler. I bought the boat in 1984 and it always had the same problem, but so far the headstay hasn't broken. But the drum has from hitting the rail! Thanks for your input. I have looked at the Spin Tec design, but it still would be a problem. It mounts in the same location as the CDI unit, above the toggle. A chain plate extension would be needed and it would hit the lower rail while underway. The narrow drum of the Spin-Tec would probably not interfere with the upper rail. but it would come close. The Profurl with the Long Links is another option, in which case I would not need the chanin plate extension, but again the trunbuckle and the Long links would hit the lower rail. I like the simplicity of the Flexible Furler that CDI has, in particular the one piece foil and the built-in halyard. In either case it looks like the bow pulpit has to move to make room for any furler.
furler. I bought the boat in 1984 and it always had the same problem, but so far the headstay hasn't broken. But the drum has from hitting the rail! Thanks for your input. I have looked at the Spin Tec design, but it still would be a problem. It mounts in the same location as the CDI unit, above the toggle. A chain plate extension would be needed and it would hit the lower rail while underway. The narrow drum of the Spin-Tec would probably not interfere with the upper rail. but it would come close. The Profurl with the Long Links is another option, in which case I would not need the chanin plate extension, but again the trunbuckle and the Long links would hit the lower rail. I like the simplicity of the Flexible Furler that CDI has, in particular the one piece foil and the built-in halyard. In either case it looks like the bow pulpit has to move to make room for any furler.
Cut the rail?
Yes, I have thought about cutting the lower rail but now sure I want to do this. Moving it forward may be the way to go, it will require a little bending and an extension of the lifelines, but before doing that I was curious to see if other H-36 have the bow pulpit located at the same spot on the toe rail. There is sufficient room to move it three inches, but now suire just why Hunter Marine placed it where it is.
Yes, I have thought about cutting the lower rail but now sure I want to do this. Moving it forward may be the way to go, it will require a little bending and an extension of the lifelines, but before doing that I was curious to see if other H-36 have the bow pulpit located at the same spot on the toe rail. There is sufficient room to move it three inches, but now suire just why Hunter Marine placed it where it is.
Cut and Extend?
Ernie - Obviously, moving the pulpit would require all of the things you mentioned - new holes, new lifelines, bending the exist pulpit. I'd think you could pull off the existing pulpit and have the lower rail cut/extended by a decent metal fabricator. Then reinstall in the existing holes with the same lifeline. Something like in the attached picture, depending on what fits best. You might even be able to go longer. T J
Ernie - Obviously, moving the pulpit would require all of the things you mentioned - new holes, new lifelines, bending the exist pulpit. I'd think you could pull off the existing pulpit and have the lower rail cut/extended by a decent metal fabricator. Then reinstall in the existing holes with the same lifeline. Something like in the attached picture, depending on what fits best. You might even be able to go longer. T J
Top
Thanks T.J. Looks great! Must have been Photshop 7 or similar. But may have to do the same with the top rail. Ernie
Thanks T.J. Looks great! Must have been Photshop 7 or similar. But may have to do the same with the top rail. Ernie
Ernie, do it T.J.s way.
All problems go away. And it's cheaper too. Any shop can do the work. And if you have the extension made even longer, your boat will look better. Did I mention that 'extending' is easier too?
All problems go away. And it's cheaper too. Any shop can do the work. And if you have the extension made even longer, your boat will look better. Did I mention that 'extending' is easier too?
Moved it today
T.J. Thanks again for your input. I took a chance today figuring that in order to cut and extend the rails, both top and bottom, I would have to remove it. The hardest part of removing the pulpit is that the eight 1/4-20 screws that bolt it on to the toe rail tend to weld into the aluminum toe rail after all these years. Fortunately I was able to remove them all without much trouble. Lots of WD-40 and patience and they all came off. It didn't take much to move the location of the pulpit forward by three inches. I used the existing forward holes in the toe rail to locate the rear screws. I used a clamp to compress the forward vertical rails slightly to fit in the new location and the rest was easy. Four new holes for the forward mounting screws. The upper life lines were extended by the use of a new turnbuckle which I happened to have from our previous boat. Lower life lines will need something else, even new ones will cost less than the cost of extending the pulpit by a local shop. I really think that the bow pulpit was not placed where it should have been in the first place. Take a look at the photo (untouched) and you will see the difference. Lots more room, top and bottom rails, and like you say, it looks better! Ernie
T.J. Thanks again for your input. I took a chance today figuring that in order to cut and extend the rails, both top and bottom, I would have to remove it. The hardest part of removing the pulpit is that the eight 1/4-20 screws that bolt it on to the toe rail tend to weld into the aluminum toe rail after all these years. Fortunately I was able to remove them all without much trouble. Lots of WD-40 and patience and they all came off. It didn't take much to move the location of the pulpit forward by three inches. I used the existing forward holes in the toe rail to locate the rear screws. I used a clamp to compress the forward vertical rails slightly to fit in the new location and the rest was easy. Four new holes for the forward mounting screws. The upper life lines were extended by the use of a new turnbuckle which I happened to have from our previous boat. Lower life lines will need something else, even new ones will cost less than the cost of extending the pulpit by a local shop. I really think that the bow pulpit was not placed where it should have been in the first place. Take a look at the photo (untouched) and you will see the difference. Lots more room, top and bottom rails, and like you say, it looks better! Ernie
Wow Ernie you proved Fred wrong
and thats a tall order. Yeh, if you could move it forward with a little tweeking, it was probably installed aft of correct.
and thats a tall order. Yeh, if you could move it forward with a little tweeking, it was probably installed aft of correct.
Question for Ernie: Running Lights?
Just stopped by and looked at the pictures and now I'm curious. Question: What is that "thing" just behind the pulpit top rail?
Just stopped by and looked at the pictures and now I'm curious. Question: What is that "thing" just behind the pulpit top rail?
Ernie - comment
Gee your boat is clean! My post shows Short Circuit before SEATOW totaled my furler foil and spreaders removing the mast from BESIDE the tree
. Ernie, 1. Note that my pulpet must have also been moved previously. Arrow denotes the running light wire coming out of the toe rail. Looks lile mine was moveded further forward than yours is now. 2. Did your anchor rollers come that way? I'd appreciate some closeup pix (several views) as you can see I will be replacing my rollers. Of course my lower rail was damaged by the tree it ran into, but hull is fine if you dont count SEATOW hitting it with the crane outrigger!! (thanks SEATOW*x) Photos can be sent to my email listing in the owner's directory or posted. thanks.
Gee your boat is clean! My post shows Short Circuit before SEATOW totaled my furler foil and spreaders removing the mast from BESIDE the tree
. Ernie, 1. Note that my pulpet must have also been moved previously. Arrow denotes the running light wire coming out of the toe rail. Looks lile mine was moveded further forward than yours is now. 2. Did your anchor rollers come that way? I'd appreciate some closeup pix (several views) as you can see I will be replacing my rollers. Of course my lower rail was damaged by the tree it ran into, but hull is fine if you dont count SEATOW hitting it with the crane outrigger!! (thanks SEATOW*x) Photos can be sent to my email listing in the owner's directory or posted. thanks.Furler location installation solutions
There are several options available.. I discuss these with you @ 727-415-4265.
There are several options available.. I discuss these with you @ 727-415-4265.
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