I am preparing to install Plasteak strips to replace the old teak coach roof trim strips - about 13' long each. When I took the old teak trim off, it obviously had some kind of caulk or bedding behind the entire length of the strip. It was very old but still very flexible. The guys at plasteak recommended just putting some 5200 in the screw holes and not putting anything as a backing or bedding down the entire length of the strip. Because plasteak won't warp like wood, they said it isn't needed. Any suggestions for how I should install the new strips? Anybody done this before? Thanks!
installing Plasteak strips?
- Thread starter Sherry
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The guys at Plas-Teak have an interesting product
but I am not sure how much they know about sailboats. The general consensus will likely be that you should bed the whole board (or piece of Plas-Teak) with maybe 3M 4200 or some other marine caulk like Boat Life Life-Caulk. Why? Because if it is loose between screws, bolts or joints then wind, water and dirt will get in there and you will need to re-bed it at some later date. Another reason not to use 3M 5200 is that is not a caulk and more like an epoxy (eg., permanent and hard to remove) and will require more work to re-do in the future than a caulk which can be removed carefully with a sharp razor blade, solvents and elbow grease. 3M 5200 requires a lot of sanding or grinding to remove. Just because it is Plas-Teak why should you bed it differently than any real teak on your deck? Areas that get loose enough could vibrate with strong winds and damage your deck. Bed the whole thing with something you can remove eventually. On my old Tartan 27 there is a strip of teak about 3/4" wide that runs above the ports and is about 8' long that I have heard referred to as the 'eyebrow' along the coach roof or dog house. Our 'eyebrow' is real teak and is so small that refinishing it is kind of a drag. I would be interested to know how this project works out for you as the prices for Plas-Teak compared to real teak lumber are pretty severe (not sure about shipping yet). If you are really concerned about this you could speak to a surveyor that you trus t and ask their opinion. Good luck with this project and I would like to know how the Plas-Teak holds up too.
but I am not sure how much they know about sailboats. The general consensus will likely be that you should bed the whole board (or piece of Plas-Teak) with maybe 3M 4200 or some other marine caulk like Boat Life Life-Caulk. Why? Because if it is loose between screws, bolts or joints then wind, water and dirt will get in there and you will need to re-bed it at some later date. Another reason not to use 3M 5200 is that is not a caulk and more like an epoxy (eg., permanent and hard to remove) and will require more work to re-do in the future than a caulk which can be removed carefully with a sharp razor blade, solvents and elbow grease. 3M 5200 requires a lot of sanding or grinding to remove. Just because it is Plas-Teak why should you bed it differently than any real teak on your deck? Areas that get loose enough could vibrate with strong winds and damage your deck. Bed the whole thing with something you can remove eventually. On my old Tartan 27 there is a strip of teak about 3/4" wide that runs above the ports and is about 8' long that I have heard referred to as the 'eyebrow' along the coach roof or dog house. Our 'eyebrow' is real teak and is so small that refinishing it is kind of a drag. I would be interested to know how this project works out for you as the prices for Plas-Teak compared to real teak lumber are pretty severe (not sure about shipping yet). If you are really concerned about this you could speak to a surveyor that you trus t and ask their opinion. Good luck with this project and I would like to know how the Plas-Teak holds up too.
Eyebrow!
Sherry: The Plasteak products are okay, but the eyebrow strips are sent coiled up. They are not straight so using them for something like this is not going to be the best use of their product. I see no reason to use caulking either except in your screw holes. This is plastic and you just need to use screws to hold it in place.
Sherry: The Plasteak products are okay, but the eyebrow strips are sent coiled up. They are not straight so using them for something like this is not going to be the best use of their product. I see no reason to use caulking either except in your screw holes. This is plastic and you just need to use screws to hold it in place.
difference of opinions
Obvioulsy there are varied opinions here about how to install. I tried to find some guidance in my This Old Boat book, but it really didn't have much. So far I've heard advantages to bedding the strips with something like Boat Life or 4200. Haven't heard any disadvantages. I am reluctant to put 5200 on anything, because I know it's THERE once you do it. So I think I feel better about the 4200 advice. Steve - I am concerned about your comment that b/c it is shipped rolled up, this may not be the best use. I will unroll the strips and leave them for a day or so before trying to install. I'll let you know how it goes. If anybody else wants to weigh in with an opinion, I'm all ears. Thanks!
Obvioulsy there are varied opinions here about how to install. I tried to find some guidance in my This Old Boat book, but it really didn't have much. So far I've heard advantages to bedding the strips with something like Boat Life or 4200. Haven't heard any disadvantages. I am reluctant to put 5200 on anything, because I know it's THERE once you do it. So I think I feel better about the 4200 advice. Steve - I am concerned about your comment that b/c it is shipped rolled up, this may not be the best use. I will unroll the strips and leave them for a day or so before trying to install. I'll let you know how it goes. If anybody else wants to weigh in with an opinion, I'm all ears. Thanks!
surveyor says . . .
As suggested, I consulted my local surveyor, who is a sailor and has refurbished a 1970's era Irwin. He says 4200 in the screw holes only, not the whole length of the strip.
As suggested, I consulted my local surveyor, who is a sailor and has refurbished a 1970's era Irwin. He says 4200 in the screw holes only, not the whole length of the strip.
That is going to be a problem.
Sherry: 1. I do not think that most boat caulking is going to do much with this product. You may want to discuss this with Plasteak. I don't think the caulking materials that we use on our boats is going to bond with their material (but I would check with them). 2. I purchased some of this material to do exactly what you are talking about. I actually put it out in the sun an fastened it down with some line to let the sun soften it up and hopefully straighten it out. I finally decided to give the stuff away and never replaced the old eyebrow with anything! 3. I agree with you about 5200. It only has a couple of practical applications (deck to hull joint & keel to hull joint). There are plenty of products that do just as good or better a job without screwing up your gel coat if you ever need to remove the item. PS: just found this on the Plasteak site "Since our recycled plastic boards do not absorb water, they do not absorb paint or glue."
Sherry: 1. I do not think that most boat caulking is going to do much with this product. You may want to discuss this with Plasteak. I don't think the caulking materials that we use on our boats is going to bond with their material (but I would check with them). 2. I purchased some of this material to do exactly what you are talking about. I actually put it out in the sun an fastened it down with some line to let the sun soften it up and hopefully straighten it out. I finally decided to give the stuff away and never replaced the old eyebrow with anything! 3. I agree with you about 5200. It only has a couple of practical applications (deck to hull joint & keel to hull joint). There are plenty of products that do just as good or better a job without screwing up your gel coat if you ever need to remove the item. PS: just found this on the Plasteak site "Since our recycled plastic boards do not absorb water, they do not absorb paint or glue."
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