how much difficulty is there installing either a reverse cycle or and ac with heat strips (not one on boat presently) and which is recommended?
installing heat and air on 2006 hunter 36
- Thread starter mr. Kempsville
- Start date
I got a AC reverse heat unit with install kit from Defender for my H34 during show special for just over 2K (3 yrs ago). Had everything I needed except the drill to make holes in the hull, and saw to cut holes in the wood for the duct work and 2 vents. After 7K quote from local tradesman I consider it a very smart move. Running hoses was a pain but would not live without it now that I have it. Do not know about H216 but I found several posts on H34 installs with photos of how they installed the units in several different locations on the boat.
AC/Reverse Heat
I believe I have factory installed cruise air system and I think if you email Hunter
that they could help with all the info needed to install.
Do a search for best prices.
nick
I believe I have factory installed cruise air system and I think if you email Hunter
that they could help with all the info needed to install.
Do a search for best prices.
nick
It shouldn't be that hard to do if you are fairly good with tools; the hardest job is installing a thru hull for the cooling water intake - best left to a professional if you're not comfortable doing this. The rest of the install is basic plumbing and electrical. Assuming the 36 is similar internally to the 356, Hunter helped by preinstalling the air duct from the settee area behind the galley aft to the main cabin - the worst duct to run. We did our install on our 356 over about 2 days. Since we converted our head to fresh water flush, I already had an unused thru hull. The mermaid system from Defender has worked really well, A/C during the hot summer days and great heat when needed (remember, we're in Maine)
Thermstat
make sure you install the thermostat away from any of the duct exhaust
vents,some of the 356 had the thermostat in front of the main vent and I have mine on the side of counter top next to ref.
Nick
make sure you install the thermostat away from any of the duct exhaust
vents,some of the 356 had the thermostat in front of the main vent and I have mine on the side of counter top next to ref.
Nick
I'm curious about one thing on installing AC. Why do you need a separate thru hull? The AC only works off AC, which means the engine is not running. So why can't you just put a T on the line to the engine?
I did use a tee - but be carefull of the tee you use - the first one I got could not stand up to the suction from the engine. It sucked air through the tee and A/C into the engine. Changed out the tee for a better one out and it works fine now.
Oh yeah - you still need to cut a hole in the hull for the discharge, but at least it is above the waterline.
Oh yeah - you still need to cut a hole in the hull for the discharge, but at least it is above the waterline.
If you want to share the engine thru hull, and you don't have a generator then you really want a t valve. With a regular tee, the engine will suck air thru the AC side and lose cooling. When the AC is running, you can suck raw water back thru the engine, maybe damage the raw water impeller, etc. NOT RECOMENDED.
Hey Y'all,
I was planning to use the head intake on my H34. I figure that you won't use the intake at a marina, so why not use it for the AC. I was also planning on using the port side cockpit scupper for the discharge. Are there some issues I am not taking into account?
I was planning to use the head intake on my H34. I figure that you won't use the intake at a marina, so why not use it for the AC. I was also planning on using the port side cockpit scupper for the discharge. Are there some issues I am not taking into account?
As with the engine intake, a T valve would be the way to connect them - if you use a plain Tee, the head or AC will suck from the other system. If you forget to open the seacock, you'll really pull water and air from the other system and possibly damage the pumps.
In addition, manual heads use the same pump to pull in water and pump waste - you risk pumping waste thru your AC (a mess) and out into the scupper and into the water - a major no-no
In addition, manual heads use the same pump to pull in water and pump waste - you risk pumping waste thru your AC (a mess) and out into the scupper and into the water - a major no-no
I have a 41 and it has two factory installed systems which share a single raw water intake and pump. They have individual thru hulls for water exit. No matter which system is thermostatically called "on" the pump runs through both units. Hunter doesn't share thru hulls and I would be skeptical of doing it. You could cause pressure or vacumn on an interconnected system and it stops you from isolating just one system. It would be really lousy to have a hose break in your AC system and have to shut down your engine because they share a hole. I have a lot of thru hulls but I can turn off anything without affecting any thing else.
Very good points.
Now I had a flash of 'something'. Could you put 2 check valves behind the T? One to stop sucking from the AC, and another to stop sucking from the engine?
I have a great desire to not have another thru hull. But am having cold sweats at the thought of the engine running without water.
Now I had a flash of 'something'. Could you put 2 check valves behind the T? One to stop sucking from the AC, and another to stop sucking from the engine?
I have a great desire to not have another thru hull. But am having cold sweats at the thought of the engine running without water.
Tee/Shutoff
Why not put the Tee into 1 thru hull and than a shut off value each side of the tee one shutoff for the engine and one shutoff for the ac and you will not be running both at same time unless a Gen.
Nick
Why not put the Tee into 1 thru hull and than a shut off value each side of the tee one shutoff for the engine and one shutoff for the ac and you will not be running both at same time unless a Gen.
Nick
Drilling the thru hull is the simplest part of installing AC. Drill hole caulk insert thru hull and tighten. As a dealer installed option on my 2004 H36 was 12k for a 16,000 btu unite.
I'm sorry but I have to admit I've been reading all of this with just a bit of amusement. I can understand your desire to not have mor through hulls than necessary but it seems like in your quest to not have a through hull you are adding complexity via Tees, back flow preventers and valves or worse putting your engine at risk, putting the air conditioner at risk or creating all sorts of issues with your head.
Don't do, it is really not a huge deal to drill a hole in the boat for a new through hull. Just my opinion but I'd do, it right and put the through hull in. At a minimum I'd check with the manufacturer to see what they recommend.
Our 38 came from the factory with below water through hulls for the air conditioner, the engine intake, the galley sink, the head sink and the macerator discharge. Above the water line are 2 for the air conditioners (we have two air conditioners), the auto bilge pump, the manual bilge pump, the propane locker, the anchor locker, the engine exhaust. And then let's not forget tank vents. So what's one more hole when properly installed.
check valves can leak and/or stick and you won't know until it's too late. Manual valve as Nick suggested would work, but - you have to always remember. I have a pair of manual valves to allow use of the AC seacock for engine cooling in case of a blockage, but that's for emergencies only. I wouldn't make it my SOP