Installing engine shutoff solenoid/switch

[Scott T-Bird]

I'm all for modernizing my boat wherever possible and I don't like the pull-stop function for shutting down the engine. I have a 1999 Yanmar 3GM30F. I've read a few threads in SBO dealing with this issue, but each article seems to end with an unsatisfactory conclusion. The Trombetta P/Q600 series solenoid has been discussed, but no definition about how to install. I had a kill switch when I had a Yanmar 2YM15 engine, which was very nice to have.

It seems that it might make sense to purchase the same solenoid and switch that is used on the YM series engines. But if the Trombetta option is similar, then perhaps it is a better option. Has anyone made this conversion? How was it done? Can the solenoid be mounted on the engine somehow or will there need to be a mounting bracket custom made? Does the pull cable need to be replaced and with what? It would be nice if I could find a how-to instructional. I do have an extra push-button switch (my old start switch) that can be easily installed. Is there any downside to making this conversion?

I really don't like the pull lever and it seems silly to stick with this technology if it can be effectively replaced with a kill switch.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I was just looking at the YM series parts and it appears the solenoid is mounted directly to the governor with a plunger that must activate the fuel rack internally, so that won't work on my GM series engine. It seems that I would need a pull-type solenoid mounted externally that will be attached to a short length of cable as it is connected to a lever arm.

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

I did that conversion on my 3GM30F and it works fine. I attached a Trombetta P-610-B5V12 directly on the engine, using one of the bolts directly behing the cable attachment and connected a Stainless Steel rod to it, bent it and brought it to the actuator lever. That created a friction problem because of the rigidity of the rod going through the actuator swivel bronze attachment. So I tried different configurations but always had the friction issue. So, because of that friction problem which made it hard for the solenoid to pull the actuator and kill the engine, I finally wound up removing the rod from the bronze attachment and putting an eyelet in the end close to the bronze attachment. I then ran a short piece of SS wire from the eyelet to the actuator attachment. I had installed a nice button in the Yanmar panel as my new kill-switch but it did not have enough amp power so it shorted out ! Replaced it with a rubber covered truck starter button and now the system work perfectly. The pics were taken before I installed the SS wire and truck starter button. Running the wires is actually the worst part of the job. Good luck

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I did that conversion on my 3GM30F and it works fine. I attached a Trombetta P-610-B5V12 directly on the engine, using one of the bolts directly behing the cable attachment and connected a Stainless Steel rod to it, bent it and brought it to the actuator lever. That created a friction problem because of the rigidity of the rod going through the actuator swivel bronze attachment. So I tried different configurations but always had the friction issue. So, because of that friction problem which made it hard for the solenoid to pull the actuator and kill the engine, I finally wound up removing the rod from the bronze attachment and putting an eyelet in the end close to the bronze attachment. I then ran a short piece of SS wire from the eyelet to the actuator attachment. I had installed a nice button in the Yanmar panel as my new kill-switch but it did not have enough amp power so it shorted out ! Replaced it with a ubber covered truck starter button and now the system work perfectly. The pics were taken before I installed the SS wire and truck starter button. Running the wires it actually the worst part of the job. Good luck

Thanks! This is exactly the kind of explanation I need for set up. I assume your rubber truck starter button is the same as the start button that I have on my panel. I already have a spare that functions so that's good. Perhaps I can exchange the rubber cover for a different color. I might try a little more elegant solution for the bent rod. It looks like that might have a torqued force that could eventually fail, but perhaps I'm wrong about that.

 

[Ward H]

Sounds like a worthwhile winter project.