Greetings all, I'm currently keeping the sailboat on the hook but still find the need for 120v for TV, DVD player, laptop, etc. I've been using an inverter that clips onto the batteries in the cockpit lazzarette, and then running an extension cord inside to the appliance. I would like to wire the inverter into the existing 120v system on the boat so I can use the closest outlet and avoid the exposed wiring. Has anyone done this? What I'm working with is a 1979 Hunter 37' sailboat, a 1300w inverter, 2 deep cycle house batts, a single standard starting batt, and a wind genny. The thought I have is to discard the clips and permenantly connect the inverter to the house batts. Use about 2-3 feet from the end of a heavy guage extension cord with the male end on one side, and plug this into the inverter. The other end will tie into the boat's 120v system close to where the shore power terminal is. When at the dock simply unplug and cover this cord. Has anybody else used this approach? Or would this create a boat fire waiting to happen? Thanks for any advice / thoughts, Ken DeLacy Sarasota, FL
Installing an inverter
- Thread starter Ken Delacy
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some suggestions
Ken In no particular order: Keep the cables as short as possible between the inverter and batteries and use marine grade (tinned) cables sized properly for the load. Use a high amp (e.g., 200 amp) fuse on the cables between battery bank and inverter. This connection should also be switched off whn not in use. There are transfer switches specifically made to ensure you cannot have both the inverter and shore power runnimg simultaneously. Use one or some equally error-proof method. Inverter - some are not designed or intended to survive in the marine environment. Don't know which you plan to use.
Ken In no particular order: Keep the cables as short as possible between the inverter and batteries and use marine grade (tinned) cables sized properly for the load. Use a high amp (e.g., 200 amp) fuse on the cables between battery bank and inverter. This connection should also be switched off whn not in use. There are transfer switches specifically made to ensure you cannot have both the inverter and shore power runnimg simultaneously. Use one or some equally error-proof method. Inverter - some are not designed or intended to survive in the marine environment. Don't know which you plan to use.
Getting ready to do exactly that!
Ken: I am getting ready to do exactly the same thing. I currently have two group 31 gels (about 200 amphrs). I have purchased a Xantrex 1800 watt inverter. These units can be turned on/off but will operate all of the AC outlets when needed. I decided on the XM1800 which will hopefully handle most of our requirements.
Ken: I am getting ready to do exactly the same thing. I currently have two group 31 gels (about 200 amphrs). I have purchased a Xantrex 1800 watt inverter. These units can be turned on/off but will operate all of the AC outlets when needed. I decided on the XM1800 which will hopefully handle most of our requirements.
You might..
You might want to consider a 12V TV, a 12V DVD player and a 12V cigarette lighter power adapter for your laptop. Going direct with 12V is more efficient than inverting. Every item you mentioned is available and can be run on 12 volts...
You might want to consider a 12V TV, a 12V DVD player and a 12V cigarette lighter power adapter for your laptop. Going direct with 12V is more efficient than inverting. Every item you mentioned is available and can be run on 12 volts...
You might want to review some VERY recent posts
like this one: http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/pviewall.tpl?uid=73200280089&sku=2008036062310.21&forumabr=aao&fno=22 An archive search on inverters will most likely bring up some very good information, too.
like this one: http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/pviewall.tpl?uid=73200280089&sku=2008036062310.21&forumabr=aao&fno=22 An archive search on inverters will most likely bring up some very good information, too.
If I understand your explanation correctly
you intend to cut the female end of an extension cord and hard wire the ends to your 120v circuitry close to the shore power entry point. Although your idea is workable it has a couple of serious pitfalls. For one should you forget to unplug the cable from the inverter before hooking up to shorepower you will surely cause a major failure with the likelyhood of a fire. The other is that when you unplug the extension from the inverter the male end terminals will still have live power from the shorepower source so you would need to somehow secure it. This wire will also not be protected by a breaker. I personally think the idea is to risky for the benefits it would provide.. I have learned not to rely on my memory 100% the time aboard a boat, there can be many distractions. You may also have visitors or crew which intending to be helpful may not be aware of such an unconventional installation. Permit me to suggest a middle of the road alternative. I concur that alligator clips are not a suitable connector for a 1,300 Watt inverter and they are usually not fuse protected. Go ahead and hardwire the 12V end of your inverter as has been already recommended 1) using wires of adequate gauge with a short round trip length 2)a 200 amp fuse to the (+) lead and 3) a circuit interrupt switch. Expect to spend around $100 for these items. On the 120V side of the inverter continue to use electrical extensions. The length on the wires on the 120V side will not be a factor and the gauge of those extension cords only has to be matched to the loads. The appliances you mentioned do not carry a heavy load. You may get extensions with heavy duty insulation so that you may route them behind cabinets and place them out of the way. You understand you woul be relying on the inverter circuitry for fire protection and that this protection is usually only as good as the quality of the inverter itself. For this reason the 12V circuit interrupt switch is recommended to disengage the inverter when not in use. If you insist in utilizing your boat 120V circuitry for both shorepower or inverter you will need a transfer switch designed to only permit the connection of only one source at a time. Some transfer switches are automatic and will sense when shorepower is conected or disconnected switching by themselves to and from inverter. These switches are usually paired or built into high end inverters. A good installation is costly as the components need to be marine grade and of superior quality. If you are trying to get by with less you have to make certain concessions.
you intend to cut the female end of an extension cord and hard wire the ends to your 120v circuitry close to the shore power entry point. Although your idea is workable it has a couple of serious pitfalls. For one should you forget to unplug the cable from the inverter before hooking up to shorepower you will surely cause a major failure with the likelyhood of a fire. The other is that when you unplug the extension from the inverter the male end terminals will still have live power from the shorepower source so you would need to somehow secure it. This wire will also not be protected by a breaker. I personally think the idea is to risky for the benefits it would provide.. I have learned not to rely on my memory 100% the time aboard a boat, there can be many distractions. You may also have visitors or crew which intending to be helpful may not be aware of such an unconventional installation. Permit me to suggest a middle of the road alternative. I concur that alligator clips are not a suitable connector for a 1,300 Watt inverter and they are usually not fuse protected. Go ahead and hardwire the 12V end of your inverter as has been already recommended 1) using wires of adequate gauge with a short round trip length 2)a 200 amp fuse to the (+) lead and 3) a circuit interrupt switch. Expect to spend around $100 for these items. On the 120V side of the inverter continue to use electrical extensions. The length on the wires on the 120V side will not be a factor and the gauge of those extension cords only has to be matched to the loads. The appliances you mentioned do not carry a heavy load. You may get extensions with heavy duty insulation so that you may route them behind cabinets and place them out of the way. You understand you woul be relying on the inverter circuitry for fire protection and that this protection is usually only as good as the quality of the inverter itself. For this reason the 12V circuit interrupt switch is recommended to disengage the inverter when not in use. If you insist in utilizing your boat 120V circuitry for both shorepower or inverter you will need a transfer switch designed to only permit the connection of only one source at a time. Some transfer switches are automatic and will sense when shorepower is conected or disconnected switching by themselves to and from inverter. These switches are usually paired or built into high end inverters. A good installation is costly as the components need to be marine grade and of superior quality. If you are trying to get by with less you have to make certain concessions.
Simple, Safe and Fool-Proof (?)
When I hooked my inverter up I thought about it a great deal. My concern was that somehow I could get both the inverter and shore power hooked up at the same time. My solution is simple and fool-proof (but you know what they say; "Make something fool-proof and somebody will invent a better fool!"). Anyway, I hard wired the inverter to the battery. As said in a previous post, use heavy gauge marine cables and keep them as short as possible. For output, I have a short, heavy gauge extention cord. When I want to use the inverter I just plug the extention cord into an adapter (available at any marine store) that plugs into the end of my shore power cord. This way The shore power cord cannot be plugged into 2 places at once so I cannot have both systems feeding my 120v circuits. My shore power cord is always plugged into the shore power plug on my boat and is stored in a cockpit locker. If it's plugged into the inverter it cannot be plugged into shore power, and visa versa. This energizes my entire 120v system so I can use any handy outlet. Just remember to turn off the breakers for the battery charger and the water heater while using the inverter. I'd also like to remind you that inverters generate a good bit of heat. Make sure it has good airflow around it. Also, do not keep it in the same enclosed space as your battery bank. Tom s/v Orion's Child Edited to add link. I'm not sure which adapter I have, it came with a previous boat and I kept it. I'm thinking it's probably #1874122.
When I hooked my inverter up I thought about it a great deal. My concern was that somehow I could get both the inverter and shore power hooked up at the same time. My solution is simple and fool-proof (but you know what they say; "Make something fool-proof and somebody will invent a better fool!"). Anyway, I hard wired the inverter to the battery. As said in a previous post, use heavy gauge marine cables and keep them as short as possible. For output, I have a short, heavy gauge extention cord. When I want to use the inverter I just plug the extention cord into an adapter (available at any marine store) that plugs into the end of my shore power cord. This way The shore power cord cannot be plugged into 2 places at once so I cannot have both systems feeding my 120v circuits. My shore power cord is always plugged into the shore power plug on my boat and is stored in a cockpit locker. If it's plugged into the inverter it cannot be plugged into shore power, and visa versa. This energizes my entire 120v system so I can use any handy outlet. Just remember to turn off the breakers for the battery charger and the water heater while using the inverter. I'd also like to remind you that inverters generate a good bit of heat. Make sure it has good airflow around it. Also, do not keep it in the same enclosed space as your battery bank. Tom s/v Orion's Child Edited to add link. I'm not sure which adapter I have, it came with a previous boat and I kept it. I'm thinking it's probably #1874122.
Xantrex Prosine 3.0
You might want to consider the Xantrex Prosine 3.0. It will charge your batteries when attached to shore power, it will automatically switch over to the inverter when shore power is disconnected and run your AC outlets. Simple and no worries about switching it is all automatic. You can read more at the Xantrex web site. Ralph
You might want to consider the Xantrex Prosine 3.0. It will charge your batteries when attached to shore power, it will automatically switch over to the inverter when shore power is disconnected and run your AC outlets. Simple and no worries about switching it is all automatic. You can read more at the Xantrex web site. Ralph
Wonderful advice
...I'll take it to heart and let you know what comes of it. Thanks to all of you, Ken
...I'll take it to heart and let you know what comes of it. Thanks to all of you, Ken
I did it a little bit differently
I am one of the anal retentive ones, who doesn't like any two systems to be tied together. If a system goes kaput, I don't want it screwing up something else. Same goes for the inverter and the other boat power. What I did was hard wire the inverter to the house bank. Direct, so there is no way it can drain the start battery, unless the battery switch is left in both. I then ran a totally seperate AC service to the interior. Only ran two outlets, which is all I ever need. The way I did mine, was to install an outlet from the inverter beside the standard shore power outlet. Since I had all white outlets and covers, I used black outlets and covers for the inverter power. No way to get them crossed or confused. You do need to install some type of fusible link if you hardwire the inverter to the house bank. A 1300 watt inverter is capable of drawing 100 amps, so you need to fuse it accordingly.
I am one of the anal retentive ones, who doesn't like any two systems to be tied together. If a system goes kaput, I don't want it screwing up something else. Same goes for the inverter and the other boat power. What I did was hard wire the inverter to the house bank. Direct, so there is no way it can drain the start battery, unless the battery switch is left in both. I then ran a totally seperate AC service to the interior. Only ran two outlets, which is all I ever need. The way I did mine, was to install an outlet from the inverter beside the standard shore power outlet. Since I had all white outlets and covers, I used black outlets and covers for the inverter power. No way to get them crossed or confused. You do need to install some type of fusible link if you hardwire the inverter to the house bank. A 1300 watt inverter is capable of drawing 100 amps, so you need to fuse it accordingly.
Hi Ken, all good advice here...
About the idea of the inverter kicking in automatically when the shore power is disconnected. Some pluses and minuses regarding that feature, IMHO. Our Xantrex Freedom 25 inverter must be manually switched on, which I prefer. Even then I forgot the hot water heater was left on when I shut down the GenSet and turned on the inverter. It took me awhile to realize what I had done, but in about an hour it took our house bank down to about 75 percent. Terry
About the idea of the inverter kicking in automatically when the shore power is disconnected. Some pluses and minuses regarding that feature, IMHO. Our Xantrex Freedom 25 inverter must be manually switched on, which I prefer. Even then I forgot the hot water heater was left on when I shut down the GenSet and turned on the inverter. It took me awhile to realize what I had done, but in about an hour it took our house bank down to about 75 percent. Terry
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