Installing a wood floor in the cabin of my catalina 30

[Ward H]

The C30 floor is a fiberglass pan with non skid molded in. While it is mostly flat the edges are rounded up. It also has one or two spots where it angles up in the corners. The only recesses are for the two bilge covers. I would think this really complicates putting in a wood floor with nice edges.
So, you might consider a EVA Foam sheet product that will give a nice Teak look is flexible to cut and fit into the edges and other uneven areas of the floor. I don't a brand name at the moment but have seen some really nice installations.
There's at least one company that will send you paper for making a template. You send it to them and they put edging along the edges for a nice finished look.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

The C30 floor is a fiberglass pan with non skid molded in. While it is mostly flat the edges are rounded up. It also has one or two spots where it angles up in the corners. The only recesses are for the two bilge covers. I would think this really complicates putting in a wood floor with nice edges.

I had forgotten, almost the entire floor is molded fiberglass, intended to be the finished surface. That does make plywood flooring out of the question. Only the bilge covers are teak & holly. It would be difficult to find a source for the smaller quantity just for the bilge covers, making the purchase of an entire 4' x 8' sheet impractical. Does Catalina Direct sell the bilge covers? I didn't see any there.

If the carpet is removed, I suppose the difficulty would be in removing the adhesive without damaging the floor. Or perhaps the carpeting has been applied to cover the floor that is already marred. I'd suggest that perhaps an adhered vinyl product that simulates teak and holly might be a good way to go in this case.

 

[RitSim]

On my past C30 I considered a wood floor. However, there are a few areas toward the forward berth and the aft access ladder that are sloped and would need some additional skills for as solid wood floor. Absolutely you have to maintain access to the bilge.

 

[Tally Ho]

These guys used a very flexible fake teak-looking material to replace their sole…
No experience with it, but maybe worth considering since your floor won’t fiberglass flat and level.

Greg

 

[dressler17]

I'm doing the same on a Beneteau 423 right now and I've dealt with (fixing, patching, etc.) marine flooring my entire life. The information above is valid, here is what I have learned: 1) Use only the most indestructible marine plywood as the base. I have restructured flooring with normal solid plywood, also with Pine that was soaked in poly, and they both came apart within 4 years. Its' not just moisture. Depending on your area, molds form and they eat the wood and the glue. Your bilge is going to be damp and that constant dampness creates all sorts of issues. On a 43 foot boat, the salon floor can be done with 2.5 sheets. Yes the cost is $$ per sheet, but you don't need much. 2) If you can fiberglass the underside and the sides of the plywood facing the bilge, all the better. 3) Finish the top with whatever you want to give the look you want and seal it well. We are doing a maple floor right now to brighten an otherwise dark cherry cabin. We are putting 1/2 inch maple down over 1/2 inch marine ply and using an impermeable glue. The maple will get soaked with finish, we will coat the marine ply to resist moisture. The existing teak and holly formica finish over 3/4 inch marine plywood has completely delaminated in some places (18 years old). Good luck

 

[RitSim]

I replaced by salon risers thru Chesapeake Boat Builders because they stocked real water proof plywood (BS 1088 British standard). They also CNC cut the pieces from my DXF file. They might be a source for a good underlayment for you.

 

[Trixster]

I removed the indoor/outdoor carpet, and the flooring is the original fiberglass. Does anyone have any thoughts on an EVA Flooring?
Thank you