Can anyone give advice on fitting a wind system (Vane, cable and display)and how to run the cable through the bulk head ?. Chris
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Wind Vane
Before you do anything get a copy of "Self-Steering for Sailing Craft" by John Letcher. It is out of print but the Barnes and Noble "used and out of print" section lists a dozen copies from $21 to $60+. Read it through then compare the properties of what you might buy based on Letcher's enormous grasp of the essentials and the subtle but important requirements for things like damping in the mechanism.
Before you do anything get a copy of "Self-Steering for Sailing Craft" by John Letcher. It is out of print but the Barnes and Noble "used and out of print" section lists a dozen copies from $21 to $60+. Read it through then compare the properties of what you might buy based on Letcher's enormous grasp of the essentials and the subtle but important requirements for things like damping in the mechanism.
Wind vane or wind indicator?
Hi Chris - In reading your post, you might mean a wind indicator (i.e. anenometer with direction transducer at masthead for reading windspeed and direction). This is something entirely different than what's typically called a wind vane, referring most often to a self steering mechanism attached to the transom in lieu of ( or in addition to) an electric or hydraulic autopilot. Most wind indicator masthead transducers affix to the masthead by plugging into a block attached to a cable which runs down the mast to the display, mounted at the companionway or cockpit bulkhead. Please clarify your question and let's see if we can help. Best, Trevor
Hi Chris - In reading your post, you might mean a wind indicator (i.e. anenometer with direction transducer at masthead for reading windspeed and direction). This is something entirely different than what's typically called a wind vane, referring most often to a self steering mechanism attached to the transom in lieu of ( or in addition to) an electric or hydraulic autopilot. Most wind indicator masthead transducers affix to the masthead by plugging into a block attached to a cable which runs down the mast to the display, mounted at the companionway or cockpit bulkhead. Please clarify your question and let's see if we can help. Best, Trevor
K
Ken Fischer
How I did it...
Several years ago, I installed a wind instrument on an '88 Mk 2 model with the U-Dinette. Your mileage may vary, but here's how it went. Removed the sheeves from the base of the mast. If you don't have these, you'll probably have to drill and access hole 2" in diameter...lots of people have done this. Drop a messenger line down the inside of the mast and pull it out the side. Next, penetrate the sealant at the top of the cabin roof, where the other wires go through, with a fish tape (there may be a stand pipe, depending on the year of the boat). The fish tape will run down to the bottom of the compression post. I drilled a 1" hole on the aft face of the compression post, a few inches up from the bottom. This hole is covered by the U-dinette. If you have an L-Dinette, you will need to replug and refinish the hole later. Using a wire hook and/or long thin needle nose pliers, guide the fish tape end into the hole used by the VHF and mast lighting wires. This is the tricky part. Once you get it, the fish tape should exit with the wires into the bilge. Run a messenger line back to the deck, tie it to the one coming down the mast. You can now pull the wind instrument cable from the top of the mast, down to the bilge. To get from the bilge to the electrical panel, we disconnected a wire from the bilge pump, attached a messenger line, and pulled it back to the panel. Then attached a second line and pulled the wire back to the bilge and hooked it back up. Now you can pull all the wire to the electrical panel. We put our instruments in the bulkhead, just to the side of the companionway. It was fairly easy to run the wire inside the hollow bulkhead, exiting in the corner and running 4" across to the teak trim above the q-berth. Hope this helps. Ken Fischer Solaria C42 #906
Several years ago, I installed a wind instrument on an '88 Mk 2 model with the U-Dinette. Your mileage may vary, but here's how it went. Removed the sheeves from the base of the mast. If you don't have these, you'll probably have to drill and access hole 2" in diameter...lots of people have done this. Drop a messenger line down the inside of the mast and pull it out the side. Next, penetrate the sealant at the top of the cabin roof, where the other wires go through, with a fish tape (there may be a stand pipe, depending on the year of the boat). The fish tape will run down to the bottom of the compression post. I drilled a 1" hole on the aft face of the compression post, a few inches up from the bottom. This hole is covered by the U-dinette. If you have an L-Dinette, you will need to replug and refinish the hole later. Using a wire hook and/or long thin needle nose pliers, guide the fish tape end into the hole used by the VHF and mast lighting wires. This is the tricky part. Once you get it, the fish tape should exit with the wires into the bilge. Run a messenger line back to the deck, tie it to the one coming down the mast. You can now pull the wind instrument cable from the top of the mast, down to the bilge. To get from the bilge to the electrical panel, we disconnected a wire from the bilge pump, attached a messenger line, and pulled it back to the panel. Then attached a second line and pulled the wire back to the bilge and hooked it back up. Now you can pull all the wire to the electrical panel. We put our instruments in the bulkhead, just to the side of the companionway. It was fairly easy to run the wire inside the hollow bulkhead, exiting in the corner and running 4" across to the teak trim above the q-berth. Hope this helps. Ken Fischer Solaria C42 #906
C
Chris
wind vane
Ken, great many thanks that's exactly what I was looking for. I was unsure how to get past the compression post - now she is coming out of the water this week, I can get the mast unstepped in preparation.
Ken, great many thanks that's exactly what I was looking for. I was unsure how to get past the compression post - now she is coming out of the water this week, I can get the mast unstepped in preparation.
K
Ken Fischer
Unstepping the mast
Unstep the mast? Why would anyone do that??? <grin - we don't do that in the PNW> There's been a lot of discussion in the past about putting in a terminal strip for the wind vane. For folks who pull the mast in the winter, I can see the attraction. But, I've always tried to limit the number of connections in any cable. I actually upgraded my instrument from a Horizon to a Raymarine a few years after the installation. We tied a string to the cable and pulled it all the way, a bit at a time, from the back of the instrument in the bulkhead, to the top of the mast. We then attached the new cable and pulled it right back down. Took very little time. You might consider using this method, rather that installing a terminal strip, cutting the cable, and suffering with corrosion issues. If I were to put in a terminal strip, I think I'd put it on the aft face of the wall that separates the salon from the head, right next to the bottom of the compression post. I'd probably build a teak box to protect it, even if you have the U-dinette.
Unstep the mast? Why would anyone do that??? <grin - we don't do that in the PNW> There's been a lot of discussion in the past about putting in a terminal strip for the wind vane. For folks who pull the mast in the winter, I can see the attraction. But, I've always tried to limit the number of connections in any cable. I actually upgraded my instrument from a Horizon to a Raymarine a few years after the installation. We tied a string to the cable and pulled it all the way, a bit at a time, from the back of the instrument in the bulkhead, to the top of the mast. We then attached the new cable and pulled it right back down. Took very little time. You might consider using this method, rather that installing a terminal strip, cutting the cable, and suffering with corrosion issues. If I were to put in a terminal strip, I think I'd put it on the aft face of the wall that separates the salon from the head, right next to the bottom of the compression post. I'd probably build a teak box to protect it, even if you have the U-dinette.
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