Installing A Solar Panel

[Southcoasting]

Followed this DIY and have the hardware coming on its way...I actually ordered my GV-4 today and realized the company is out of Boston so shipping was only $5...

Have not ordered my panel yet as I am not sure what to go with...I'm leaning towards this panel from Amazon though.

The hardware for installing it in this manner comes out to be pretty expensive as these stainless steel parts end up costing quite a bit...Ordered mine from Defender.com...I did however skip out the "flip-flop hinged deck" piece as first of all, I could not find it anywhere and second, I will just used a regular hinge fitting like this one to save a few bucks...

 

[Rick D]

Thanks, guys for the note about Genasun. I am upgrading my solar and this looks like the right solar charge regulator. There are a zillion on e-bay, so this helps a lot selecting one.

 

[jfgy]

Many thanks!

 

[manus]

Thanks for your informative post, Maine Sail. Questions:

1. Do you use the genasun gv-4 with AGM batteries?
2. Do you ever use a bus bar (like the Blue Seas dualbar) instead of a combiner to "parallel" two panels, i.e., down below near the controller? By small panels, I mean two 40 watt panels.

 

[Maine Sail]

Thanks for your informative post, Maine Sail. Questions:

1. Do you use the genasun GV-4 with AGM batteries?

Yes the GV-4, and the other sizes, can be used with AGM's. If you have special charge voltages you want they will also sell you a custom programmed version. Be sure the controller can handle your 80 watts. The GV-4 is the smallest and can only do panels up to 50W. You'd need the GV-10 for 80 watts..

2. Do you ever use a bus bar (like the Blue Seas dualbar) instead of a combiner to "parallel" two panels, i.e., down below near the controller? By small panels, I mean two 40 watt panels.

I don't use a "combiner" to combine two panels as it is not an appropriate use. The combiner is only to combine two battery banks when charging voltages are present.

For your panels simply wiring them in parallel would be the best option. If your panels have good old fashioned junction boxes, a very good option to look for when buying panels, it is easiset to "parallel" the panels inside the j-box before running to the batteries. If paralleling panels they should ideally be the same make/model..

 

[manus]

Maine:

Got two 40W Sunwize nd Genasun 10. Two questions:

1. Best way to knock out plastic "knockouts" on J Box?
2. Re: screw down terminal block in J Box: is there an alternative to just using bare 10 ga wire to hook the panels up? I will wire the panels in parallel.

Thanks.

 

[Ron20324]

# 10 seems a bit overkill, considering the volts/amps involved. You'd probably have trouble finding ring terminals that fit the panel and controller connections. My lugs were separated by plastic ridges, which precluded using larger rings/wires.

 

[Maine Sail]

Maine:

Got two 40W Sunwize nd Genasun 10. Two questions:

1. Best way to knock out plastic "knockouts" on J Box?

On the Sunwize panels.. CAREFULLY!! I use some water pump pliers..

2. Re: screw down terminal block in J Box: is there an alternative to just using bare 10 ga wire to hook the panels up? I will wire the panels in parallel.

Not unless you want to replace the existing Eurostrip that is in there.. I coat the wires ends with NoOxId Special A which is available from Sailors Solutions..

 

[thinwater]

On the Sunwize panels.. CAREFULLY!! I use some water pump pliers....

I ended up using a hole saw, as the pressure on the pliers was reaching my fear threshold. However...
* I protected the panels with a towel covered with a thin scrap of plywood.
* I went VERY gently.
It's not exactly like a common j-box where you can give it a sharp whack.

 

[manus]

Thanks for the tips, Maine and Thinwater. I even thought of a hot knife, but will try the other two methods, first.

Plan on using some of Maine's butyl tape to seal the J Boxes (=in lieu of silicone sealant) when finished.

 

[manus]

Thanks for the tips, Maine and Thinwater. I even thought of a hot knife, but will try the other two methods, first.

Plan on using some of Maine's butyl tape to seal the J Boxes (=in lieu of silicone sealant) when finished.

This is what worked for me in "cleanly" getting the knockouts out of my Sunwize panel j box: First, I drilled a hole in the center of the knockout, large enough to eventually insert a hacksaw blade within; 2) I used the hacksaw blade to cut diagonal chunks of plastic down as far as the circular @ 1" OD indentation; 3) I then used a mini pair of channel lock pliers to remove the "diagonal chunks" of plastic. Finished off any "plastic bits" on the @ 1" OD with a circular file.