Installing a Norcolder fridge conversion

[bugbitten]

Folks,

I'm installing a Norcolder 4408 conversion unit in my 9.2A.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|406|10789|322424&id=2078898

I've been busy cutting foam sheets to increase the insulation inside the ice box, while decreasing the cubic footage the Norcolder has to cool.

I'm about done with the insulation and need to decide where to put the compressor/condensorr unit, which is about 14 x 10 x 6". Seems like under the starboard settee, near the galley, might be space I could easily give up. I'd need to put some ventilation louvers to help with air circulation.

Any other areas that might be better? If you have a fridge conversion, where did you put your compressor/condensor unit?

I'd sort of rather put the heat (and minimal noise) in the starboard lazarette, near the bulkhead the cooler backs up to, but I think Norcool would prefer it not be that near the engine's heat. Not that I run the engine all that much.

I'm on the James River in the Hampton Roads area, and mostly just cruise there and in the Bay.

Thanks.

John

 

[woodster]

Folks,

I'm installing a Norcolder 4408 conversion unit in my 9.2A.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|406|10789|322424&id=2078898

I've been busy cutting foam sheets to increase the insulation inside the ice box, while decreasing the cubic footage the Norcolder has to cool.

I'm about done with the insulation and need to decide where to put the compressor/condensorr unit, which is about 14 x 10 x 6". Seems like under the starboard settee, near the galley, might be space I could easily give up. I'd need to put some ventilation louvers to help with air circulation.

Any other areas that might be better? If you have a fridge conversion, where did you put your compressor/condensor unit?

I'd sort of rather put the heat (and minimal noise) in the starboard lazarette, near the bulkhead the cooler backs up to, but I think Norcool would prefer it not be that near the engine's heat. Not that I run the engine all that much.

I'm on the James River in the Hampton Roads area, and mostly just cruise there and in the Bay.

Thanks.

John

it would prolly be ok in the lazarette if you built and en closer for it and insulated it to shield the heat ...i am going to put a freezer holding plate in mine and make it a deep freeze as i am putting an upright refer in the cabin ...giveing up the starboard settee ...but then i am planning on being on the boat full time in the future

regards

woody

 

[Mark Maulden]

I put it under the stbd aft cockpit locker right up against the transom. I guess it could be called a lazaretto. It used up all the CU tubing and I didn't have to coil it somewhere. The old one lasted 33 yrs there. This is on a 36 so I'm not sure how that compares to yours.

 

[onecoolair]

I put it under the stbd aft cockpit locker right up against the transom. I guess it could be called a lazaretto. It used up all the CU tubing and I didn't have to coil it somewhere. The old one lasted 33 yrs there. This is on a 36 so I'm not sure how that compares to yours.

Down here in Texas you want the compressor down below in the air conditioning , otherwise the Blue Bell will not stay frozen!!:+1:

 

[bugbitten]

Down here in Texas you want the compressor down below in the air conditioning , otherwise the Blue Bell will not stay frozen!!:+1:

If I had a/c, you best believe I'd put the compressor down there with it!

I'm leaning toward putting it aft of the cooler, in the lazarette, but up close to the bulkhead. There's already a factory cut out there, so access is easy. I think there's plenty of air circulation, and I can boost it easily if needed by just lifting the cockpit seat above that area.

Cross your fingers.

John

 

[bugbitten]

It works!

After much travail, mostly of an electrical nature due to the illogic of the supplied cable lengths, I finally got the unit in and running this week. I left it at 83° F and returned the next day to 29°! I've fiddled with the thermostat a bit, trying to keep the shelf area around 36 to 38°, with the deeper section closer to freezing. I have added two inches of closed-cell styrofoam insulation to the inside of the box, but have not put anything yet under the lids. That will certainly improve things.

Once I've finished with the insulating, I'll put a usage meter on it (right now I just have the AC hooked up) to track how much it's running.

I did move the compressor to the aft, starboard lazarette, the floor of which is much higher than the main lazarette, making it easier to get to everything. This resulted in the problem with the electrical cables. The supplied copper tubing can let you remote the compressor 12 feet from the cooler, but one cable limits this to four feet, while the other limits you to eight. A very pricey cable can be bought which extends the four foot (thermostat) cable to eight feet, but my location needed about ten. I made my own for peanuts.

It took one 4x8 sheet, one inch thick, to cover the inside of the box. This is because I doubled it up, so there's two inches on the sides and bottom. It's recommended that I seal the seams and then cover it with West System or the like epoxy. It's easy enough to replace, and works nicely as is, so I'm leaving it in its natural state for the time being.

Still need to finish the DC wiring, tack everything down, and fill the area that connects the cooler to the main lazarette.

You can kind of see how I have the compressor shoved to the back of the aft lazarette. I'll put some screening or something that will help keep items from hitting the compressor, while still allowing for air circulation. I'd rather give up some of that aft lazarette than cabin storage. Plus the cabin gets very hot in the summer when it's closed up, while the aft lazarette can more readily be kept at near air temps. It'll be interesting to see if I'll go to the trouble of putting a heater back there in the winter since I heat the cabin and I want my cold beer no matter what! Probably I could just layer a bit of fiberglass insulation around the compressor if it gets too cold in the lazarette for it to work properly. I'll have to see what Norcold says, although I think their tech support is a bit tired of me.

Guess I should've painted the floor of that lazarette/locker before the pic!

John

 

[onecoolair]

After much travail, mostly of an electrical nature due to the illogic of the supplied cable lengths, I finally got the unit in and running this week. I left it at 83° F and returned the next day to 29°! I've fiddled with the thermostat a bit, trying to keep the shelf area around 36 to 38°, with the deeper section closer to freezing. I have added two inches of closed-cell styrofoam insulation to the inside of the box, but have not put anything yet under the lids. That will certainly improve things.

Once I've finished with the insulating, I'll put a usage meter on it (right now I just have the AC hooked up) to track how much it's running.

I did move the compressor to the aft, starboard lazarette, the floor of which is much higher than the main lazarette, making it easier to get to everything. This resulted in the problem with the electrical cables. The supplied copper tubing can let you remote the compressor 12 feet from the cooler, but one cable limits this to four feet, while the other limits you to eight. A very pricey cable can be bought which extends the four foot (thermostat) cable to eight feet, but my location needed about ten. I made my own for peanuts.

It took one 4x8 sheet, one inch thick, to cover the inside of the box. This is because I doubled it up, so there's two inches on the sides and bottom. It's recommended that I seal the seams and then cover it with West System or the like epoxy. It's easy enough to replace, and works nicely as is, so I'm leaving it in its natural state for the time being.

Still need to finish the DC wiring, tack everything down, and fill the area that connects the cooler to the main lazarette.

You can kind of see how I have the compressor shoved to the back of the aft lazarette. I'll put some screening or something that will help keep items from hitting the compressor, while still allowing for air circulation. I'd rather give up some of that aft lazarette than cabin storage. Plus the cabin gets very hot in the summer when it's closed up, while the aft lazarette can more readily be kept at near air temps. It'll be interesting to see if I'll go to the trouble of putting a heater back there in the winter since I heat the cabin and I want my cold beer no matter what! Probably I could just layer a bit of fiberglass insulation around the compressor if it gets too cold in the lazarette for it to work properly. I'll have to see what Norcold says, although I think their tech support is a bit tired of me.

Guess I should've painted the floor of that lazarette/locker before the pic!

John

John....What is your plan for finishing off the interior of the cooler box?

 

[bugbitten]

I've been told that West System epoxy will seal the foam without eating it, but I'm open to suggestions.

John

 

[onecoolair]

Make templates of all the flat surfaces inside your cooler b

I've been told that West System epoxy will seal the foam without eating it, but I'm open to suggestions.

John

Just thinkin....Can't help it ...It's my nature.
Make templates of all the flat surfaces inside your cooler box.... Say poster board. Next I read just the other day, about someone here on the forum that seems to have a lot of experience with fiberglass... Giving a suggestion to someone else here. That he just makes a fiberglass sheet and cuts out the pieces he needs. Then he just seems them together. I was thinking you could use this technique and also pre-apply the a gel-coat finish to the flat sheet. Wax it up good. Then use the templates to mark out the wall panels of cooler box. One way to finish off the seems on the inside is to very carefully wet tip all the seems using 5200. I have used the wet tip technique on a few projects and the 5200 cured to a very nice shiny hard finish that matched the white gel-coat very nicely.

 

[bugbitten]

Re: Make templates of all the flat surfaces inside your cool

One option, too, would be to just scrap the existing box and build a new one from scratch. I could use this as is this season, while working on the more-thoroughly-insulated and properly-finished new one. Getting some fiberglass experience either way would be a plus.

John