Installing a new portlight

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Mar 28, 2005
182
Oday 272 Baltimore
I am planning on putting a new 5x12 opening portlight in the side of the cockpit well in our O'Day 272. This will give some much-needed ventilation to the quarter berth where my daughter usually resides. She's been pretty tolerant, but it can get stuffy, and is also dark back there. I figure this small size won't compromise structural integrity of the cockpit/bench seat above. I found a great deal on a port on eBay and need a bit of advice. The portlight is drilled for 8 thru bolts, but the trim ring is a solid casting. Should the trim ring merely be bedded/adhered with sealant, or is it wanting to be bolted as well? There really is nothing structural about it, it only provides a cosmetic cover to the opening. What sealant would you recommend for setting the portlight and for the trim ring (ABS plastic to fiberglas)? BoatLife Life Seal? 3M 4200? 101? Thanks loads.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
If you know that it will stay dry for a couple of days after you

finish then use Duron Maxflex acrylic urethane sealant. You can get it at any Duron paint store in the region.
 
Feb 26, 2004
98
Pearson 365 Ketch Memphis, TN
The trim ring is mainly cosmetic

When I put in a new portlight, I didn't think too much about the ring. That is until it started leaking. I had plenty of adhesive on the corners of the ring, but none in the middle. when the seal at the bottom of the ring (top of the portlight) failed later in the season it was functioning as a big, shallow funnel. I resealed it, and now the water sheets off the cabintop, hits the raised ring and runs off to the sides. Much better. I would not use Life Caulk for a plastic portlight. I think it will eventually "eat" the plastic. Stainless is OK, gelcoat is OK, wood is OK, but plastic ... not so much.
 

Harlan

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Jun 4, 2004
99
Oday 34 Niantic
portlight install

When you make the cutout you will likely find a gap between the deck and the liner. I'd suggest you fill it both for strength and so any leaks that might occur don't end up between the hull and liner - never to be noticed but will cause damage. Epoxy and cabosil works very well. Dry fit the port light and mark the flange. Then remove and cut the flange so it fits flush to the trim ring - eliminating an ankle scraper in the cockpit. The flange machines easily with wood tools - saw, file, sandpaper - and the cut edge will polish up with fine paper.
 
Mar 28, 2005
182
Oday 272 Baltimore
Thanks for all the great input

I will definitly take your advice, Harlan, and trim the flange back to the level of the trim ring. I've been thinking about whether or not to trim it so it does not scrape the ankles. On the downside, I liked the idea of the flange for a bit of rain protection when the port might be open, but I think the trade-off of maintaining a smooth cockpit surface trumps that. Regarding the liner, I believe in this area, all I've got is the sort of carpet liner that O'Day lined the entire cabin with. I believe otherwise there is only the one layer of fiberglass making the wall of the cockpit. This boat has wheel steering, and when I've had the pedestal off to work on its innards, I did see that the floor of the cockpit seems to be cored. If I find that the walls are as well, I'll certainly seal them with thickened epoxy. I will go with 100% Silicone for the bedding/adhesive. Thanks again, all!
 
Jan 27, 2007
383
Irwin 37' center cockpit cleveland ohio
I installed 4 Becksons

The holes on the outside are beveled to accept "V" head bolts. The cover then fits flush over this. On the inside, the bolt threads protrude, or should, about 1/4". Use cap nuts for covering these.
 
Mar 28, 2005
182
Oday 272 Baltimore
Letterman, that's how I anticipated them going on.

By the way, which side of the city are you from? My wife grew up in Cleveland Heights. Graduated from Heights High in 71.
 
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