I would like to know if anyone has installed a mainsheet traveler (roller blocks, cam cleats, etc..) on an H23, and if so, how do you do it ? I have searched the archives, but was unable to find anything pertaining to this. Thanks Mike
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Are you sure you mean the H23?
The H23 has a traveler at the front of the cockpit below the companionway. Maybe you meant the H23.5? This is the water-ballast boat with the aluminum tiller and no side decks. I sailed one last week and it had no traveler. Both Harken and Schaefer make traveler kits with all the parts you need. They should be fairly easy to install on the H23.5, just bolt the track on right there in the front of the cockpit. The Harken small boat kit is listed for $320 in the West Marine catalog. The Schaefer traveler was original equipment on the H23 and will probably cost about the same. Good luck! Peter H23 "Raven"
The H23 has a traveler at the front of the cockpit below the companionway. Maybe you meant the H23.5? This is the water-ballast boat with the aluminum tiller and no side decks. I sailed one last week and it had no traveler. Both Harken and Schaefer make traveler kits with all the parts you need. They should be fairly easy to install on the H23.5, just bolt the track on right there in the front of the cockpit. The Harken small boat kit is listed for $320 in the West Marine catalog. The Schaefer traveler was original equipment on the H23 and will probably cost about the same. Good luck! Peter H23 "Raven"
yeppers
I just got the parts to install one today. Got them at West Marine for about $100. It entails 2 eye bolts or fairleads to tie off the end of the line at the cockpit sides. Then run the line through a roller block on either side of the mainsheet car.........then back thru a turning block to vertical up the sides of the cockpit to a cam cleat with a fairlead on top. Total parts: 2 eye bolts, 2 roller blocks, 2 turning blocks and 2 cam cleats.
I just got the parts to install one today. Got them at West Marine for about $100. It entails 2 eye bolts or fairleads to tie off the end of the line at the cockpit sides. Then run the line through a roller block on either side of the mainsheet car.........then back thru a turning block to vertical up the sides of the cockpit to a cam cleat with a fairlead on top. Total parts: 2 eye bolts, 2 roller blocks, 2 turning blocks and 2 cam cleats.
Hey Mike B
That's a GREAT idea, but I need a few more details. How did you secure the blocks to the car? (I'm assuming you have the stock 4-wheel Schaefer car) Did you through-bolt the turning blocks and fairleads at the cockpit edges or did you use self-tapping screws? I was literally about to order parts (including the 6-wheel car) from Schaefer but your idea sounds so good I had to rethink this. I'm pulling out the WM catalog when I get home tonight! Peter H23 "Raven"
That's a GREAT idea, but I need a few more details. How did you secure the blocks to the car? (I'm assuming you have the stock 4-wheel Schaefer car) Did you through-bolt the turning blocks and fairleads at the cockpit edges or did you use self-tapping screws? I was literally about to order parts (including the 6-wheel car) from Schaefer but your idea sounds so good I had to rethink this. I'm pulling out the WM catalog when I get home tonight! Peter H23 "Raven"
Mike E here
Not Mike B..................but yes I stayed with the stock car. Used standard swivel blocks with U shaped attachment that goes through the same attachment point that the main sheet goes to. You've gotta use small blocks, big ones won't fit. I used blocks for 1/4" line. A buddy has a set up with big line and big blocks and it jams up. And yes...........definitely through bolt them with big backing washers. Use a turning block down low on the side for a straight pull on the car and then lead up to a cam cleat with a fairlead on top so I knot will keep your line in place.
Not Mike B..................but yes I stayed with the stock car. Used standard swivel blocks with U shaped attachment that goes through the same attachment point that the main sheet goes to. You've gotta use small blocks, big ones won't fit. I used blocks for 1/4" line. A buddy has a set up with big line and big blocks and it jams up. And yes...........definitely through bolt them with big backing washers. Use a turning block down low on the side for a straight pull on the car and then lead up to a cam cleat with a fairlead on top so I knot will keep your line in place.
Back to you Mike E
I drew your setup on paper last night and it's good! I'm going to rig the existing car using swivel blocks just like you did. However, after looking through the WM and Schaefer catalogs I'm going to make two changes: i) the blocks on the car will have a becket underneath so I can terminate the end of the line on the car instead of the padeye on the side of the cockpit. ii) I'm going to use Schaefer double sheaves with cam cleat and fairlead on the ends of the track. They bolt right on to the track using the same mounting bolts that secure the track to the deck. The end result is that I won't have to drill any holes and the traveler will have a 3:1 purchase instead of 2:1. This setup can be trimmed from down in the cockpit as well as up on the rail. Of course, there is a price to pay (literally). The Schaefer double sheaves list for $102 apiece. It's pricey, but I have this thing about not drilling holes in a perfectly good hull. Peter H23 "Raven"
I drew your setup on paper last night and it's good! I'm going to rig the existing car using swivel blocks just like you did. However, after looking through the WM and Schaefer catalogs I'm going to make two changes: i) the blocks on the car will have a becket underneath so I can terminate the end of the line on the car instead of the padeye on the side of the cockpit. ii) I'm going to use Schaefer double sheaves with cam cleat and fairlead on the ends of the track. They bolt right on to the track using the same mounting bolts that secure the track to the deck. The end result is that I won't have to drill any holes and the traveler will have a 3:1 purchase instead of 2:1. This setup can be trimmed from down in the cockpit as well as up on the rail. Of course, there is a price to pay (literally). The Schaefer double sheaves list for $102 apiece. It's pricey, but I have this thing about not drilling holes in a perfectly good hull. Peter H23 "Raven"
2 more cents worth
What I did: 2 small singles with beckets shackled to the ring on the car. Dead eyes on the cockpit cowl slightly back from in-line with the traveler track. Doubles shackled to each dead eye. single line running through the 3:1 tackle on each side of the car terminated at both ends at the beckets. I have a single line running in behind the traveler which when pulled port or starboard moves the car accordingly with a 3:1 advantage. Think about it! A 3:1 traveler with no lines floating in the cockpit. ;-) Greg
What I did: 2 small singles with beckets shackled to the ring on the car. Dead eyes on the cockpit cowl slightly back from in-line with the traveler track. Doubles shackled to each dead eye. single line running through the 3:1 tackle on each side of the car terminated at both ends at the beckets. I have a single line running in behind the traveler which when pulled port or starboard moves the car accordingly with a 3:1 advantage. Think about it! A 3:1 traveler with no lines floating in the cockpit. ;-) Greg
overkill?
I am still in the process of installing my setup so I can't report firsthand results yet. But I do know a guy whole has the same setup and is happy. I also know another guy with a 3:1 setup with double blocks and he says it's cumbersome with all that line and more purchase than is necessary on a 23' boat. I do like the idea of mounting the blocks on the track though. Just make sure it all is sized for 1/4 or 5/16ths line. Heavier line is unnecessary and WILL get cumbersome.
I am still in the process of installing my setup so I can't report firsthand results yet. But I do know a guy whole has the same setup and is happy. I also know another guy with a 3:1 setup with double blocks and he says it's cumbersome with all that line and more purchase than is necessary on a 23' boat. I do like the idea of mounting the blocks on the track though. Just make sure it all is sized for 1/4 or 5/16ths line. Heavier line is unnecessary and WILL get cumbersome.
Why I'm going for the 3:1 purchase
I'm sure a 2:1 purchase would be OK, but most of the time I sail (and race) singlehanded, so every bit helps. This is especially true when I am up on the windward rail with the tiller extension in one hand and the mainsheet between my teeth.
A 3:1 purchase makes the traveler 2/3 as sensitive to changes in trim as a 2:1 setup. That should make it 1.5 times harder for my ham-fisted hands to over-ease the traveler in gusty weather and upset the boat. I can always convert the 3:1 to 2:1 if it doesn't work as expected. All I have to do is relocate the end of the line from the car to the end of the track. I'm using one length of 5/16 Sta-Set line running from the port side of the car, through the tackle on the port side, across the cockpit to the tackle on the starboard side and back to the starboard side car. There'll be just enough slack in the line so I can trim the traveler from the windward rail. Finally, I've got this thing about not drilling holes... Peter H23 "Raven"
I'm sure a 2:1 purchase would be OK, but most of the time I sail (and race) singlehanded, so every bit helps. This is especially true when I am up on the windward rail with the tiller extension in one hand and the mainsheet between my teeth.
A 3:1 purchase makes the traveler 2/3 as sensitive to changes in trim as a 2:1 setup. That should make it 1.5 times harder for my ham-fisted hands to over-ease the traveler in gusty weather and upset the boat. I can always convert the 3:1 to 2:1 if it doesn't work as expected. All I have to do is relocate the end of the line from the car to the end of the track. I'm using one length of 5/16 Sta-Set line running from the port side of the car, through the tackle on the port side, across the cockpit to the tackle on the starboard side and back to the starboard side car. There'll be just enough slack in the line so I can trim the traveler from the windward rail. Finally, I've got this thing about not drilling holes... Peter H23 "Raven"- Status