I'm about to install a Garhauer deck organizer on my Hunter 18.5 as part of my attempt to make singlehanded sailing possible. I'm tired of trying to get people to sail with me, and so will try to bring sheets back to the cockpit so that I don't have to move to the bow of the boat to raise the mainsail and the jib. Also installing a CDI Flexible Furler furling jib as well as a downhaul to ensure that the mainsail comes down when I want it to. I plan to rig up a set of lazy jacks too. I'm a bit leary about drilling through the deck of the boat, though, of course, I must do so. I wonder if anyone out there in Hunter-land has done work such as I've described above on their (or anyone else's) boat and has suggestions or advice to offer a sailor with four thumbs on each hand. Anything about drilling through the deck I need to consider? Suggestions on the downhaul or the lazy jacks? For those of you who have installed the CDI furling jib, are there things I should try to avoid, or things I should definitely try to do? I will appreciate any ideas, suggestions, warnings, or advice you can offer. Thanks for your help, and fair winds! Peter, S/V Katy Kaye, an Ohio Lake Erie small boat sailor.
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Greg Stebbins
single handing
Peter, I've got the same problem with my 23 in the winter (cowards!). I to get the willys when considering major mods involving drills and such. My current thinking is in the direction of a auto pilot. These things are supposed to maintain a heading for short periods of time and cost in the range of $350-400. They are simple to install; attaching from the cockpit combing to the tiller with a power cord to the battery. I'll let you know how it works out.
Peter, I've got the same problem with my 23 in the winter (cowards!). I to get the willys when considering major mods involving drills and such. My current thinking is in the direction of a auto pilot. These things are supposed to maintain a heading for short periods of time and cost in the range of $350-400. They are simple to install; attaching from the cockpit combing to the tiller with a power cord to the battery. I'll let you know how it works out.
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Larry Barnes
Small boat sailors rule!
Hay Peter, I admire your comitment to sail against all odds. You can do this with out to much alteration. Roller furling for the Jib and Lazy Jacks with the main halyard brought to the cockpit, would do it. Remember, when the jib is furled, luffing the main is just like putting on the brakes of your car. It does take some courage to put the drill bit to the deck and spars but just check out the systems available and measure everything 10 times (better make it a dozen). I put a hole saw to my transom to install a thru hull fitting so I get the picture. Just envision it when it's all set up and go to a chandlery where there's a friendly service person who's dedicated to the job. The Tillerpilot concept is a great one but your boat might be too responsive to wind flucuations for the autopilot to keep up with. The throw of the push pull rod isn't all that fast, but check and see cause they might have just what you're looking for (tiller tamer might be enough). Have fun on the H2O, Larry Barnes
Hay Peter, I admire your comitment to sail against all odds. You can do this with out to much alteration. Roller furling for the Jib and Lazy Jacks with the main halyard brought to the cockpit, would do it. Remember, when the jib is furled, luffing the main is just like putting on the brakes of your car. It does take some courage to put the drill bit to the deck and spars but just check out the systems available and measure everything 10 times (better make it a dozen). I put a hole saw to my transom to install a thru hull fitting so I get the picture. Just envision it when it's all set up and go to a chandlery where there's a friendly service person who's dedicated to the job. The Tillerpilot concept is a great one but your boat might be too responsive to wind flucuations for the autopilot to keep up with. The throw of the push pull rod isn't all that fast, but check and see cause they might have just what you're looking for (tiller tamer might be enough). Have fun on the H2O, Larry Barnes
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Mike Pajewski
I have a CDI & Harken Lazy Jacks on my 26
I've added the CDI & Harken lazy jacks. The trickiest part of the furler installation was having to change the length of the forestay. I left the installation to the dealer. We also had my jib recut, as it was only 6 months old. The cost for the furler was a reasonable $395 at the Chicago Boat show. The dealer charged me 400 smackers for the sail mods and installation. The Lazy jacks were a Harken kit that I picked up on sale for less than a 100 bucks. I installed them on the mast in an hour - easy job. Just make sure you have a stout pop rivet gun. These two mods significantly improve sail handling on my 26. Mike Pajewski H26 "Loon"
I've added the CDI & Harken lazy jacks. The trickiest part of the furler installation was having to change the length of the forestay. I left the installation to the dealer. We also had my jib recut, as it was only 6 months old. The cost for the furler was a reasonable $395 at the Chicago Boat show. The dealer charged me 400 smackers for the sail mods and installation. The Lazy jacks were a Harken kit that I picked up on sale for less than a 100 bucks. I installed them on the mast in an hour - easy job. Just make sure you have a stout pop rivet gun. These two mods significantly improve sail handling on my 26. Mike Pajewski H26 "Loon"
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Jay Hill
Not the same boat, but...
...you can check out the post in the Photo Forum "Single Handing an H31..." I just posted it a couple of days ago and have some tips on some things I found critical on my boat.
...you can check out the post in the Photo Forum "Single Handing an H31..." I just posted it a couple of days ago and have some tips on some things I found critical on my boat.
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Dave Condon
Response
Peter; The CDI system is pretty simple in design and easy to use. Simply follow the instructins and you should be fine. Couple items to mention. If you purchased the system and the extrusion came coiled up, when uncoiling, have three people or it may whip back on you and hurt you. I can do it by myself but of course I have done it often as I put them on all my boats. You will need to bend it around the opposit direction and use three tie wraps to hold. Leave looped in a circle for a minimum of three hours before cutting the tie wraps. You will measure the length of the forestay and based on the length, the extrusion or grey tube will be cut. Once installed and you try to furl the jib and notice trouble turning around, look at the top and see if the black top piece which the halyard exits from is hitting the mast. IF that is the case, then cut the extrusion shorter by one inch increments. I am having to do this with the new 240 & 260. I remeber the first time when drilling through the deck, I was scared but now it is a piece of cake to me. the first thing to do is get all the blocks and hardware and position them on the deck of the 18.5. Go inside and look to make sure the projected bolt holes coming into the cabin will not interfere with any other items inside for example interior lights. Mark one hole and dirill through with a small bit to determine fi solid in the deck. If so, drill the hole and put bolt on with out securing it down. Then mark the other holes and again drill with small bit to make sure you have a solid deck. Make sure to caulk using 5200. Inside the cabin, if the cabin liner can flex, you will need to cut a larger hole in it to get the washer up against the deck and nut too. If you do no want to do that, then use metal tubes which the bolt can come through and apply the washer and bolt. Works great in these case. You may have to cut the metal tubes to the exact ;lenght as the thinkness of the deck varies. If you get nervous, call Gregg Emerson at Hunter and he will give you my number so you can call me for further details. Gregg will only give my number in cases like this as I am a dealer and out of respect for this forum, I will not divulge who I am. I simply enjoy helping you.
Peter; The CDI system is pretty simple in design and easy to use. Simply follow the instructins and you should be fine. Couple items to mention. If you purchased the system and the extrusion came coiled up, when uncoiling, have three people or it may whip back on you and hurt you. I can do it by myself but of course I have done it often as I put them on all my boats. You will need to bend it around the opposit direction and use three tie wraps to hold. Leave looped in a circle for a minimum of three hours before cutting the tie wraps. You will measure the length of the forestay and based on the length, the extrusion or grey tube will be cut. Once installed and you try to furl the jib and notice trouble turning around, look at the top and see if the black top piece which the halyard exits from is hitting the mast. IF that is the case, then cut the extrusion shorter by one inch increments. I am having to do this with the new 240 & 260. I remeber the first time when drilling through the deck, I was scared but now it is a piece of cake to me. the first thing to do is get all the blocks and hardware and position them on the deck of the 18.5. Go inside and look to make sure the projected bolt holes coming into the cabin will not interfere with any other items inside for example interior lights. Mark one hole and dirill through with a small bit to determine fi solid in the deck. If so, drill the hole and put bolt on with out securing it down. Then mark the other holes and again drill with small bit to make sure you have a solid deck. Make sure to caulk using 5200. Inside the cabin, if the cabin liner can flex, you will need to cut a larger hole in it to get the washer up against the deck and nut too. If you do no want to do that, then use metal tubes which the bolt can come through and apply the washer and bolt. Works great in these case. You may have to cut the metal tubes to the exact ;lenght as the thinkness of the deck varies. If you get nervous, call Gregg Emerson at Hunter and he will give you my number so you can call me for further details. Gregg will only give my number in cases like this as I am a dealer and out of respect for this forum, I will not divulge who I am. I simply enjoy helping you.
M
Mike Pajewski
Make little formica access plates
When drilling holes in the deck, you can always take a hint from Hunter and cut an access Hole in the cabin liner, than cut a piece of laminate from the hardware store slightly larger than the opening. Drill holes in the four corners, again larger in the laminate so the screw can pass through freely. You now have an esthetically pleasing access plate that is handy for fishing wires through or rebedding the fittings later. This is how all of the deck hardware is installed on my 26. You can usually buy laminate in the color to match your cabin interior. Mike Pajewski H26 "Loon"
When drilling holes in the deck, you can always take a hint from Hunter and cut an access Hole in the cabin liner, than cut a piece of laminate from the hardware store slightly larger than the opening. Drill holes in the four corners, again larger in the laminate so the screw can pass through freely. You now have an esthetically pleasing access plate that is handy for fishing wires through or rebedding the fittings later. This is how all of the deck hardware is installed on my 26. You can usually buy laminate in the color to match your cabin interior. Mike Pajewski H26 "Loon"
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