I have a H26 with a solar panel which has served me well but in Texas marinas in the summer a fan is a must. This means I need more power. Has anyone installed a 110? What is the best set up? How to isolate the solar panel from the charger? What is the best spot to put the switches etc?
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Jon Bastien
Clarification?
Pat, Do you mean that you want to install 110v power recepticles and an inverter on your boat, or just add a 110v battery charger to supplement your solar panel? (Are you planning 120v or 12v fans?) If it's the former, I recommend having the wiring done professionally. If it's the latter, then I think we could use a little more info about your current electrical system- Among other things, is your outboard electric start (and does it have an alternator that also needs to be isolated)? --Jon Bastien H23 '2 Sheets to the Wind' H25 'Adagio'
Pat, Do you mean that you want to install 110v power recepticles and an inverter on your boat, or just add a 110v battery charger to supplement your solar panel? (Are you planning 120v or 12v fans?) If it's the former, I recommend having the wiring done professionally. If it's the latter, then I think we could use a little more info about your current electrical system- Among other things, is your outboard electric start (and does it have an alternator that also needs to be isolated)? --Jon Bastien H23 '2 Sheets to the Wind' H25 'Adagio'
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Pat Hooyman
Clarification on 110
Good point- I want to install a battery charger to use while at dock and a 110 receptacle for fans and other 110 volt stuff while docked. I would like the charger to also be able to run 12 volt fans at dock. The solar panel works fine away from the dock for instruments and lights but is not sufficient forr runninig a fan or other power hungry item. I do not want to use an inverter for 110. What I need advice on is the best location for for the shore power connector and some idea of a good circuit diagram for isolating the charger from the solar panel, ground fault breaker location, etc.
Good point- I want to install a battery charger to use while at dock and a 110 receptacle for fans and other 110 volt stuff while docked. I would like the charger to also be able to run 12 volt fans at dock. The solar panel works fine away from the dock for instruments and lights but is not sufficient forr runninig a fan or other power hungry item. I do not want to use an inverter for 110. What I need advice on is the best location for for the shore power connector and some idea of a good circuit diagram for isolating the charger from the solar panel, ground fault breaker location, etc.
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Jon Bastien
It's free advice... and you get what you pay for
Hi Pat, You can take this with a grain of salt, as I have only a passing familiarity with the inner workings of the H26. From the way you describe your needs, there seems to be a simpler solution. I think I would run a heavy duty (marine grade?) extension cord from the dock to a 15-Amp recepticle mounted in the cockpit, on the side opposite the walk-through opening in the transom. The recepticle is available at West Marine, and is marketed as a "Battery charger inlet" (WM #191991, $16.99, pp484 of catalog). Into the back of the inlet, I would plug in a heavy-duty power strip, with a built in circuit breaker. I would probably mount the outlet strip somewhere near the galley. At this point, I have two options: a.) Plug in the battery charger in the galley, and run the battery charger's power cord through the appropriate bulkhead or wiring channel, or b.) put an outlet splitter on the back of the power inlet, and plug the power strip in one side, and the battery charger into the other. To isolate the charger from the solar panel, I would probably install a switch in the positive lead from the solar panel to the battery, allowing you to disconnect the panel while the battery charger is plugged in. I would locate the switch near the power inlet, to help me remember to disconnect and reconnect the panel when using shore power. The battery charger you select is also important; The "maintenance chargers" generally put out about 0.5 Amps, and are useless if you plan to run any loads on your system. I would recommend a 'smart' charger which charges at 10-amps "bulk" to meet your needs. It's not the most attractive setup, but it would be effective, semi-permanent, and much better looking than just running an extension cord through the companionway. It could also save you a chunk of $$, over having internal wiring and receptacles installed. --Jon Bastien H23 '2 Sheets to the Wind' H25 'Adagio'
Hi Pat, You can take this with a grain of salt, as I have only a passing familiarity with the inner workings of the H26. From the way you describe your needs, there seems to be a simpler solution. I think I would run a heavy duty (marine grade?) extension cord from the dock to a 15-Amp recepticle mounted in the cockpit, on the side opposite the walk-through opening in the transom. The recepticle is available at West Marine, and is marketed as a "Battery charger inlet" (WM #191991, $16.99, pp484 of catalog). Into the back of the inlet, I would plug in a heavy-duty power strip, with a built in circuit breaker. I would probably mount the outlet strip somewhere near the galley. At this point, I have two options: a.) Plug in the battery charger in the galley, and run the battery charger's power cord through the appropriate bulkhead or wiring channel, or b.) put an outlet splitter on the back of the power inlet, and plug the power strip in one side, and the battery charger into the other. To isolate the charger from the solar panel, I would probably install a switch in the positive lead from the solar panel to the battery, allowing you to disconnect the panel while the battery charger is plugged in. I would locate the switch near the power inlet, to help me remember to disconnect and reconnect the panel when using shore power. The battery charger you select is also important; The "maintenance chargers" generally put out about 0.5 Amps, and are useless if you plan to run any loads on your system. I would recommend a 'smart' charger which charges at 10-amps "bulk" to meet your needs. It's not the most attractive setup, but it would be effective, semi-permanent, and much better looking than just running an extension cord through the companionway. It could also save you a chunk of $$, over having internal wiring and receptacles installed. --Jon Bastien H23 '2 Sheets to the Wind' H25 'Adagio'
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Michael Bell
Not that difficult
In the rear compartment, if you open the starboard door, you are looking at the inside of the motor well. On the portion of the well facing you, I mounted a thin piece of plywood, and to that the charger. The outlet for the power is mounted high on the motor well to the outside (just below where the stern-rail seat attaches, as I recall). That puts the connectors of the power outlet in the same space as the charger. I then mounted the circuit panel on the wall of the rear compartment, starboard to the opening you were just looking in to see the motor well (that puts the circuit panel next to your head if your in the berth, and in the same space as everything else. That may seem like an awkward place, but you don’t have to get at the panel very much). Then I ran wire to an outlet located in the starboard storage area below the seats (just in front of the galley sink). Sounds like a lot of work, but it’s not really to bad. If your accustom to wiring outlets in the house, you can do this. I wouldn’t suggest going with the extension cord solution. By the way, you have a choice of 30 or 50 AMP service. 30 amps is plenty, but in your case if you go with air conditioning, you might consider 50 amp. Check with your marina to see what’s available.
In the rear compartment, if you open the starboard door, you are looking at the inside of the motor well. On the portion of the well facing you, I mounted a thin piece of plywood, and to that the charger. The outlet for the power is mounted high on the motor well to the outside (just below where the stern-rail seat attaches, as I recall). That puts the connectors of the power outlet in the same space as the charger. I then mounted the circuit panel on the wall of the rear compartment, starboard to the opening you were just looking in to see the motor well (that puts the circuit panel next to your head if your in the berth, and in the same space as everything else. That may seem like an awkward place, but you don’t have to get at the panel very much). Then I ran wire to an outlet located in the starboard storage area below the seats (just in front of the galley sink). Sounds like a lot of work, but it’s not really to bad. If your accustom to wiring outlets in the house, you can do this. I wouldn’t suggest going with the extension cord solution. By the way, you have a choice of 30 or 50 AMP service. 30 amps is plenty, but in your case if you go with air conditioning, you might consider 50 amp. Check with your marina to see what’s available.
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Dave Condon
wiring
Pat; The biggest headace of course running the wire and placement of the Inlet. Done it too often and I will be glad to explain if you want to get hold of me. Call Gregg Emerson at Hunter and he will give you my phone. Crazy Dave
Pat; The biggest headace of course running the wire and placement of the Inlet. Done it too often and I will be glad to explain if you want to get hold of me. Call Gregg Emerson at Hunter and he will give you my phone. Crazy Dave
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Fred Kinkel
Another Option
Another option for mounting the 110v inlet is below the aft stantion (just infront of the cockpit) and just above the rub rail on the starboard side. The back of the inlet fits into the same area that the back of the 12v panel fits into. So I put a 3 circuit 110V breaker right next to the 12V. It is nice having all the switches in the same spot and it is a short run from the intlet to the breaker. I am no electrician but the wiring was pretty simple. I installed 3 outlets. One underneath the stove facing toward the aft birth, one by the battery for a battery charger and one in the head for my wifes hair dryer. Another one somewhere forward in the cabin would be nice but I haven't gotten around to this. One thing that made hidding wiring helpful was a spray on contact cement from 3M. In several places I simply pulled back the gray felt on the walls laid in the wiring and put the felt back in place with this contact cement. It was all in the aft berth so it wasn't very visible. I still have an Excel spreadsheet with all the material and part numbers I used. It's been a couple of years so some of the prices have probably changed but I would imagine most of the part numbers are the same. Send me an e-mail at fredkinkel@yahoo.com if you want a copy. Good Luck! Fred Kinkel '95 H26 - Escape
Another option for mounting the 110v inlet is below the aft stantion (just infront of the cockpit) and just above the rub rail on the starboard side. The back of the inlet fits into the same area that the back of the 12v panel fits into. So I put a 3 circuit 110V breaker right next to the 12V. It is nice having all the switches in the same spot and it is a short run from the intlet to the breaker. I am no electrician but the wiring was pretty simple. I installed 3 outlets. One underneath the stove facing toward the aft birth, one by the battery for a battery charger and one in the head for my wifes hair dryer. Another one somewhere forward in the cabin would be nice but I haven't gotten around to this. One thing that made hidding wiring helpful was a spray on contact cement from 3M. In several places I simply pulled back the gray felt on the walls laid in the wiring and put the felt back in place with this contact cement. It was all in the aft berth so it wasn't very visible. I still have an Excel spreadsheet with all the material and part numbers I used. It's been a couple of years so some of the prices have probably changed but I would imagine most of the part numbers are the same. Send me an e-mail at fredkinkel@yahoo.com if you want a copy. Good Luck! Fred Kinkel '95 H26 - Escape
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