Another option would be to take about 5-7 degrees off the engine and install a constant velocity coupling.
Installation angle limits??????
- Thread starter woodster
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If I understand correctly, you shimmed the entire strut away from the hull to get the lineup with the stern tube. You might try shimming only the forward edge of the strut away from the hull. That will tilt the cutless bearing more toward the horizontal, you'll get your lineup and reduce the angle of the engine.
that is good advice....i spent most of the day checking and studying the problem ...climbing in and put of the boat adjusting the strut to get the angle i can live with......the conclusion is that i am going to shave 1/8 of an inch off the rear of the face of the mounting pad on a taper to the front of the pad...that will give me the degree i can live with somewhere between 12 and 10 degrees...but i will have to cut the shaft tube loose from the hull and reset it to match what i have on the strut...i looked on line for a shaft tube but didnt have much luck finding a new one ...when all is said and done i will have what i need to make this work....the shaft is binding in the tube with this adjustment high in the rear and low in the foward end of the tube ...so i will cut it loose and reset it if i cant find a new tube to replace it with...thanks for all the replies it has given me very good food for thought on my 3 days away from the boat.....i must have need the brake.....all the advice you have given me was used and studied in order to come to my final solution......
regards
woody
thanks Fred.....i looked last night and they have 1 and 3/4 od with 1 1/2 id (1/8 wall thickness) they also have 1 1/2 od with 1 1/4 id (again 1/8 wall thickness) i may have to get one of each and marry them to get the 1/4 inch wall thickness i need....i thought i had come across theses things on the net about 2 years ago but so far havent found them again......
regards
woody
The right G10 tube is made BUT you do have to buy 2 feet and look a bit
For example 1-3/4 OD works well with a standard stuffing box and a 1" prop shaft
It is very exact material and allows you to use standard bronze bushing to line it up
For example 1-3/4 OD works well with a standard stuffing box and a 1" prop shaft
It is very exact material and allows you to use standard bronze bushing to line it up
thanks Tommays ii just found a source i think and am waiting on a reply from them on price and availability ...if you have a source i would like to know about it ...would be much appreciated
regards
woody
the source i found has the size i need in vinelester .... i am wondering if the west epoxy will bond with success to that type of resin material...i will contact west and see what they say in regards to this application....
You have to be very carefull with the material for example i bought a sample of Pultruded Fiberglass Tubing and it was pretty bad stuff for this job
The 180 bucks for the G10 kind of sucked BUT it is perfect
I still do NOT think you need to change the tube as unless you put the motor underwater your not going to change the angle
The 180 bucks for the G10 kind of sucked BUT it is perfect
I still do NOT think you need to change the tube as unless you put the motor underwater your not going to change the angle
i am going to have to drop it down in the front as the shaft is binding on the bottom front now and is binding on the top rear after the angle switch.....the original angle was 15 degrees with the old engine and with the angle change on the strut to 11 degrees it will have to come down in the front for sure ...if i can get the tube free with out destroying it that will be a plus....i am looking for the tube just in case ...i don't think i can ream it out enough and still have a sound tube but i might give it a try .......I still do NOT think you need to change the tube as unless you put the motor underwater your not going to change the angle
regards
woody
Unless your boat is much different then most ever other one i have seen thee is just no place to move the motor as my coupling is 2" above the bilge now
Unless your boat is much different then most ever other one i have seen thee is just no place to move the motor as my coupling is 2" above the bilge now
i do have about 4 to 5 inches of room now but that will change some when i change the angle in the tube..i am thinking it will be around 2 to 3 inches when done.....
regards
woody
tube is out now.....
.......i cut the tube out today and was able to salvage it with out harm...thats great.....took my Fine vibrating saw and whittled it out a little at a time...then i went in the shop and made a hard maple mandrel to fit inside the tube and chucked it up in the wood lathe and turned all the mounting fiber glass ans thickened resin off the tube...it came out nice but the poor chisels were almost not strong enough to cut this stuff ...very hard....here is some picks of it after the lathe work.....
regards
woody
.......i cut the tube out today and was able to salvage it with out harm...thats great.....took my Fine vibrating saw and whittled it out a little at a time...then i went in the shop and made a hard maple mandrel to fit inside the tube and chucked it up in the wood lathe and turned all the mounting fiber glass ans thickened resin off the tube...it came out nice but the poor chisels were almost not strong enough to cut this stuff ...very hard....here is some picks of it after the lathe work.....
regards
woody
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Both epoxy and polyester resins can be used with vinylesters. I , for your application, would recommend the epoxy, as the bond is more tenacious and the cured resin will stretch more without fracturing and should, hence, be better able to take vibration.
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