Install new halyards

Kingjim91 · Jul 6, 2013

Jerry,
I just replaced all the lines on my C30. It's pretty straight forward. You can save yourself a ton of money.
First thing is getting the right size ropes.
From my C30 manual:
Main halyard - 3/8 X 112' for tall rig, with an eye in one end
Jib halyard - 3/8 X 116', with an eye in one end
Traveler - 5/16 X 24.5' (need 2)
Furler - depends on the model you have and how it's set up. Suggest measuring the old one.

For the traveler and Furler, just duplicate the routing you have currently.

For the halyards, there's a little trick. Cut the eye off the old line, then stitch the tail of the new line to the end you just cut on the old line. Hold the lines butt-to-butt and add a few stitches to hold them together. Pull out the old line by the tail end, and the new one follows right along.

Anonymous 121765 · Jul 7, 2013

New Halyards & Reference Info.

Jerry,

nice post King, good valuable info.

I would print & save this along with any useful info for past, present & future projects. I'm on my third "Boat Info" binder. Everything worth saving for reference is in them.I have but to locate the info, specs, sketches, suppliers etc. The better the file collection, the better the outcome.

For my addition to this thread, I have attached a copy of my '80 Mark II std. rig (orig.) manual. It's a simple manual albeit the time period it was printed, but this could be a good start for your all-growing reference.

CR

rgarrison@gmail.com · Jul 7, 2013

good stuff!

rgarrison@gmail.com · Jul 7, 2013

Oh, other than the obvious like damaged lines, why change halyards and sheets? I had an issue with my main sheet "twisting" and causing jams in the running rig...I fixed that, I think, by removing the line, inspecting it and rerunning. At least it is working better but may need to be replaced.

IainB · Jul 8, 2013

Has anyone fed a halyard through the mast from the top with OUT taking the mast down. Lost the halyard through it being inappropriately attached to the sail and not the furler and being frayed against the fore-stay. The DPO decided to attach the furling Genoa just before I took delivery and if we are doing this at the dock then the admiral is going to have to go to the top of the mast in the bosuns chair.

hvbaker · Jul 8, 2013

It would be expensive to drop the mast for this job. Take a small fishing weight and tie it to a messenger line and drop it down from the top. You will have to take the turning block out at the base of the mast and fish the weight and line out and then thread the line through the turning block. Reinstall block attach messenger line to new halyard and pull up halyard and down with messenger line. The problem will be if the screws holding the turning block in the mast have corroded (screws likely to be stainless steal and mast aluminum) or if there are bolts holding in turning block. If this is the case you could drill out and retap with larger size threads.

Kingjim91 · Jul 9, 2013

rgarrison@gmail.com said:
Oh, other than the obvious like damaged lines, why change halyards and sheets? I had an issue with my main sheet "twisting" and causing jams in the running rig...I fixed that, I think, by removing the line, inspecting it and rerunning. At least it is working better but may need to be replaced.

In my case, I just recently bought the boat, and I found that all the lines were over-sized, badly chafed from rubbing in the blocks, and very difficult to operate. Correcting this made a world of difference - now all the rigging is running smooth. And I love the feel of new rope!
Aside from damage or wrong size, I can't think of a reason to replace lines. Twists and such can be worked out, as you have found.

rgarrison@gmail.com · Jul 9, 2013

thanks for the feedback, I can see your point about the feel of new lines, etc. There was an earlier post re sizes and I will check mine. Also, I wonder if old lines loose their texture/feel which allows more slippage on the winch drums. My older boat does not have self tailing winches and 3 wraps is sometimes not enough. Tailing for myself is problematic as my Admiral takes it easy...

Happy sailing and thanks for your interest

hvbaker · Jul 9, 2013

Jerry,
Get some whipping thread and a needle. Butt the lines together end-to-end and sew them together. After you think your done give the lines a good yank to make sure your sewing is sufficient before letting the joint enter the mast. Don't worry you can do it.

dlewis812 · Jul 10, 2013

getting ready to replace my main halyard as well.. haven't looked yet but anyone have a preference of retailer?

dlewis812 · Jul 10, 2013

more important, i have wire to rope combo. anyone have info on the rope length with this setup?

Bob4203 · Jul 11, 2013

I am looking as well for a place to buy new line without breaking the bank! The problem is that many prepared lines with spliced eye and headboard shackle do not come in the size I need without it being a custom order. Ebay comes close to decent pricing on line.

Bob
'88 Mark II

Kingjim91 · Jul 12, 2013

Bob4203 said:
I am looking as well for a place to buy new line without breaking the bank! The problem is that many prepared lines with spliced eye and headboard shackle do not come in the size I need without it being a custom order. Ebay comes close to decent pricing on line.

Bob
'88 Mark II

Bob,
Milwaukee Rigging has a website that has good prices on StaSet.

If you've never done your own splicing, The New England Ropes website has very clear instructions.

Jimmie

Kingjim91 · Jul 12, 2013

Jerry21607 said:
King

Thanks for your reply, I will give it a try. Just a few more questions. I currently have light colored lines and thinking of dark blue. I have not noticed many dark lines on other boats is there a down side to color? Also, how do I stitch the lines together? Does a special device exist or just needle and heavy thread? Is there a danger of having the line tangle in the mast as I pull it through? When replacing the roller furling line, which is a closed loop, is there a special method of attaching the two ends or does it come as a closed loop and installed as such.

Jerry

Jerry,

I have different color lines, for color coding. I think it helps communication between myself and First Mate. A uniform color would look nice. So do what suits your fancy.

Stitching is with needle and thread. I use waxed whipping twine, but any sturdy thread will do - it's only temporary. 8 to 10 stitches, about a half inch long, to join the 2 lines. That will easily pass through pulleys and fair leads.

To avoid possible tangles, lay out your new line free of any twists, and then just watch for any twists developing as you pull it. It should pull smoothly - if you feel any resistance, pull it back and try again.

I don't have any experience with a closed loop furler, but I think you could would be able to do something similar.

Jimmie

Cayennita · Jul 12, 2013

the closed loop furler requires that the two ends be spliced. It has to be done in place after threading the new line. However, many DIY's will simply stich the two ends butt to butt.

hvbaker · Jul 12, 2013

Splicing not difficult. Buy fids and view how to on you tube.

Install new halyards

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