My current Adler Barbour cold machine is on the blink. It is probably as old as the boat. It starts up (fan and compressor) and then shuts down. It may stay on a couple of minutes or most likely only runs a few seconds. I replaced the module once several years ago at about $300 but now this module (AB3017) is $600+. A quick check of new comparable Dometic compressor and horizontal evaporator can be had for approx. $1300. How hard can it be for the average do-it-yourselfer?
Install a new refrigeration unit?
- Thread starter Pat T
- Start date
I added a unit to my boat and it wasn't a big deal. Hardest part was fishing the power wire to the unit and you already have that done.
Make sure your batteries and your charger are working correctly. That was what was wrong with my friends cold machine. He spend a lot of time and money to figure that out.
Check the power and ground cable too.
Make sure your batteries and your charger are working correctly. That was what was wrong with my friends cold machine. He spend a lot of time and money to figure that out.
Check the power and ground cable too.
I got a replacement module for our 1986 A/B from rParts in Santa Cruz, CA in August of 2016 for less than $300 including s/h to Alameda. A search here on rParts should find it. Then there's this:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9065.0.html
If your evaporator is still working, it means that it's either the module or electrical. Richard Kollmann: 99% of fridge problems are electrical.
Good luck, we had a lot that August!
Thanks Stu and Syclone. Went on a short 4 day trip, loaded the box with 2 bags of ice and refrigerator started to work. It worked for about 2 days and quit. Put more ice in box and it started to work. Not sure what's going on. Closer look at module says it is E254412 which is the 4 pin module. Doesn't look like rparts has it but other places have it for approx $300 if I decide to go that route. Still researching how to troubleshoot and of course it's in a hard to get at place.
jviss, yes, I thought maybe thermostat also. I think I can bypass it to test. I just need to make some sort of jumper wire to do that. If it turns out to be the case then I may try one of the digital types. I keep my fingers crossed as a thermostat is hopefully cheaper than a module.
Yes, a thermostat is the easiest and least expensive fix, if that's the problem. If it's an old-style one you can simply short the wires at the thermostat.
I have plans to install an Inkbird controller in mine, but it's a new refrigerator system, and I have to do some research as to how it's controller.
Here's the Inkbird - only about $15 on eBay or Amazon. Note that these are available in 110VAC, 220VAC, 12VDC, and also ºF and ºC.
I have a more complex plan to install two, one for normal operation, set at 38 to 40º F for the main box, and another that is active when the engine is running, set at 32º F, to chill things further without freezing them.
my old 1980 A B developed pinhole leaking in the copper tubing that could not be fixed and made the refrig not cool well. after several years of topping it up with refrigerant , we bit the bullet threw it out and have an isotemp that has been fine (but pricey...)
I'm back to buying/installing a new unit. After all the troubleshooting I discovered the problem was the module, however one can't be had for less than $475 plus shipping. Can't see putting that much into and old machine.
NotCook
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- Dec 29, 2008
- 806
This is a great idea. If there is correct voltage, but the batteries are so tired that they won't support the current, they could shut it down.
What is the condition of the batteries? Might make sure the wires and cables are good too, as they could cause the current to drop if the batteries are actually still good.