Install a built-in fuel priming pump

Benny17441 · Jul 12, 2015

I gather you only want to run the electric fuel pump at certain times. The proper way to do it is to install it in a bypass line. I have seen electric pumps pushing fuel through a mechanical pump but not the inverse. I would inquire with the seller about its installation for your desired purpose.

hewebb · Jul 13, 2015

I have this one installed in the fuel line. It comes on with the key and runs all the time. Engine is a Universal. It was on the boat when I bought it. The PO replaced it just before I bought the boat.

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-12D-Electric-Diesel/dp/B001QVTI5U

kentobin · Jul 13, 2015

I have an electric fuel pump after my racor filter but before the Volvo MD17C engine. I've never had a problem with it in 8 years. It's in series and I'd personally be hesitant to put in a bypass line as I'm paranoid about air leaks. Never did check it for ease of fuel flow when not in use.

If you are concerned about how to install the pump contact the seller on Amazon or the pump manufacturer and see if they have any more information.

Like you after having to manually prime the engine after a fuel filter change I determined that it was not something I liked to do and installed the pump. It makes bleeding the engine so much less painful. It is a highly recommended upgrade IMHO.

Delezynski · Jul 13, 2015

Back in about 2002 I installed a primer like this on our 2GM20F.

I put it in line (not a bypass line) and have used it ever since. Works GREAT and is low cost.
You can see it at; http://www.amazon.com/HC-CARGO-Diesel-Primer-Length-9001080A/dp/B00V3BC91S

Greg

Delezynski · Jul 13, 2015

mz4wheeler said:
I saw this in one of your videos. Somehow, somewhere I saw that the USCG frowns on these, but I'm really not sure why. Another forum I saw someone mention that when his boat was surveyed the surveyor mentioned this in his report.

It may be a good idea to replace these every 5 years or so to be extra safe.

But all this aside.

I was thinking that after I replace filters, I could simply turn the pump on, wait for bubbles to disappear on the return line, then momentarily open all the normal priming vents to finish the job.

Also, my engine is sometimes hard to start after sitting a while. I was thinking that I could turn the pump on for 10 secs, then start.

However, I really have no idea if this would actually help anything.

Did not see that about the CG. It would be very easy to put it, like the electric, in a bypass line. The thing I like about it is that I can use it without power. I do carry an extra electric pump (not installed) in case we are remote and I loose the engine driven pump.

I also have a vacuum gauge in line just after the filter so I can see if the filter is starting to cl

My normal procedure for the day is to open the compartment, visually check everything, then check the oil, and then give the bulb a couple of good squeezes until I hear gurgles in the fuel tank from the return line. When I installed a new fuel tank I added a hose to the return line that goes to the bottom of the fuel tank so I do not get foaming of the diesel fuel.

Greg

PGIJon · Jul 13, 2015

The PO installed the Mr. Gasket one and it went south quickly. I ended up removing it and now have hand pump like Delezynski.

Benny17441 · Jul 14, 2015

kentobin said:
It's in series and I'd personally be hesitant to put in a bypass line as I'm paranoid about air leaks. IMHO.

I share your Paranoia but adding and electric pump inline is comparatively as risky as installing a bypass line. Use quality components and do a good install and you should be fine. More to check either way when problems arise. Sorry but not much faith on a $17 pump.

Alan Gomes · Jul 14, 2015

Is there *any* priming bulb suitable for a diesel engine installation (i.e., mounted in the engine compartment) that would pass survey? My surveyor flagged the one on my boat when I bought it and I removed it. I wouldn't want the risk, nor would I want to fight with my insurance company over a claim because of it. Perhaps there is one out there that meets ABYC specs--whatever those might be? Anyway, I would want to be sure about it before installing one.

Stu Jackson · Jul 14, 2015

QUEST for THE priming pump

Alan, and others,

I've read threads like this for years. Perhaps you can help me understand why so many folks with Yanmar (and some other) engines complain about bleeding when all it would take is to install a diesel-rated fuel lift pump in their fuel supply line. These could be set to always run when the ignition switch is on (like mine does on our Universal), or with a switch to cut it off anytime one wanted to. If a diesel lift pump dies (and they certainly have) AND if your fuel tank is ABOVE your engine, in most cases the engine will continue to operate (until the fuel level drops to a certain point in the tank. If the tank is below the engine, unless the engine has a remarkably strong built in mechanical fuel pump, a LIFT PUMP would be required anyway.

Universals don't seem to have this "issue."

Why is there a repeated (like the start of every single boating season and many times during the season) "quest"

for a manual fuel priming bulb?

Thanks,

Stu

Maine Sail · Jul 14, 2015

Stu Jackson said:
Alan, and others,

I've read threads like this for years. Perhaps you can help me understand why so many folks with Yanmar (and some other) engines complain about bleeding when all it would take is to install a diesel-rated fuel lift pump in their fuel supply line. These could be set to always run when the ignition switch is on (like mine does on our Universal), or with a switch to cut it off anytime one wanted to. If a diesel lift pump dies (and they certainly have) AND if your fuel tank is ABOVE your engine, in most cases the engine will continue to operate (until the fuel level drops to a certain point in the tank. If the tank is below the engine, unless the engine has a remarkably strong built in mechanical fuel pump, a LIFT PUMP would be required anyway.

Universals don't seem to have this "issue."

Why is there a repeated (like the start of every single boating season and many times during the season) "quest" for a manual fuel priming bulb?

Thanks,

Stu

Stu,

Yanmar's, like many of the older Perkins engines use a diaphragm, pump driven off a cam on the engine. If you want to prime it there is a thumb lever. Not difficult unless the builder left you no room to reach the priming lever..:cussing: Universal's are Kubota's and use electric lift pumps as many Westerbeke's do but not most Yanmar's.......

Alan Gomes · Jul 14, 2015

Stu Jackson said:
Alan, and others,

I've read threads like this for years. Perhaps you can help me understand why so many folks with Yanmar (and some other) engines complain about bleeding when all it would take is to install a diesel-rated fuel lift pump in their fuel supply line. These could be set to always run when the ignition switch is on (like mine does on our Universal), or with a switch to cut it off anytime one wanted to. If a diesel lift pump dies (and they certainly have) AND if your fuel tank is ABOVE your engine, in most cases the engine will continue to operate (until the fuel level drops to a certain point in the tank. If the tank is below the engine, unless the engine has a remarkably strong built in mechanical fuel pump, a LIFT PUMP would be required anyway.

Universals don't seem to have this "issue."

Why is there a repeated (like the start of every single boating season and many times during the season) "quest" for a manual fuel priming bulb?

Thanks,

Stu

Stu,
Well, I can't speak for others but I am able to prime my 1GM just fine without a squeeze bulb. There's a lever on my mechanical lift pump for just that purpose. One does have to make sure the cam is in the correct position before working the lever so that one gets enough "throw" for the pump to work properly. But otherwise, it seems to work fine.

Maine Sail · Jul 14, 2015

Alan Gomes said:
Stu,
Well, I can't speak for others but I am able to prime my 1GM just fine without a squeeze bulb. There's a lever on my mechanical lift pump for just that purpose. One does have to make sure the cam is in the correct position before working the lever so that one gets enough "throw" for the pump to work properly. But otherwise, it seems to work fine.

I do about 15-25 Yanmar or Perkins primes per year and they are no big deal at all. Never understood the need for anything more provided there is access to the thumb lever..

Gunni · Jul 15, 2015

My Yanmar doesn't even require a prime after filter replacement. 4JH3E It fires right up, I assume with the fuel in the pump. There is a mechanical fuel pump on the engine, nothing else. Seems like adding an after-market pump into the system would just add a fuel system failure mode. And if it restricts flow then an after-market pump just adds stress to your mechanical OEM pump. Just obey rule one -don't run your engine out of fuel. Racor makes a filter system with a filter priming pump built into the block - that would more than solve any problem with priming a long fuel run. These aren't Detroit Diesels, they only need a few sips of fuel to get going.

Benny17441 · Jul 16, 2015

Do you have the electric pump set up to run continuously or just when you need it for priming? Just curious if it does not impede fuel flow when power is cut off.